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Old 10-05-2012, 12:20 PM   #1
zimi OP
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
preparing a KTM Adv 640 for a Rally

Hi Guys,
I opened this thread to ask question about the preparation of my 2004 KTM Adventure 640 R for Tuareg Rally in march 2013.
I just bought this bike the 24'000km on the clock and I don't know anything about the history of the bike.

I found out 2 problems:
-the neutral switch is sometimes difficult to find with then engine one, and the light doesn't stay on when i am in neutral. I can see it flash when I go from neutral to first or second gear and same on the other way round. What could it be?

-When I start the engine, with the choke on, if I try t o give some gas, the rpm goes down! If I wait a few minutes then the motor runs normally.

I am thinking about lowering the bike with one of the lowering kit. What experience do you have with it? I would feel more confortable on difficult sections if I can have my boths feets completely on the ground.

And for the air filter, does some of you have experience with Unifilter? It's an Australian brand sold by Touratech. PRetty expensive, but for desert racing, I suppose I shoulnd not spare on this if it's better than the original.
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:32 PM   #2
jon6.0
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Lot's of info here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958
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Old 10-05-2012, 12:35 PM   #3
svenb
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-the neutral switch is sometimes difficult to find with then engine one, and the light doesn't stay on when i am in neutral. I can see it flash when I go from neutral to first or second gear and same on the other way round. What could it be?

My tip if I go to Tuareg with my 2003 adv. Remove every thing that have with neutral switches, sidestand, clutch switches. So you can start without founding neutral or hold the clutch,
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:56 AM   #4
michael1968
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Location: Newcastle, Australia
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Uni filters are actually pretty cheap if you don't buy them from Touratech! Have a look around on the web.

Check out this thread;

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353839
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:20 AM   #5
grimmboy
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Here's are a few suggestions:

disconnect the neutral switch

send your forks and shock off to a suspension specialist get them serviced and re-sprung and valved.

either get the 625 scx choke set-up or be prepared to put the choke end back in the carb after every fall because it pulls out and the bike won't idle.

remove all the engine hardware clean, loc-tight and re-torque to spec.

if you have the factory nylon tank, take it off, set it aside and order the KTM replacement plastic tank. It will take a better hit and tend not to crack like nlyon.

get spare levers, shift included you can hide them behind the fairing.

run bib mousse and michelin desert tires

safety wire the brake bolts, counter shaft bolt and there are several other areas that seem to come loose.

if I can think of anything else i'll throw it up.

my 2001 640 adventure completed the 2008 heroes legend

enjoy the day, grimmy
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:15 AM   #6
zimi OP
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Location: Switzerland
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Hi grimmboy, thanks for the suggestions.

however, I cant afford giving my suspension to tune, neither to buy a new nylon tank.

What kind of screws do you glue with loctite? Like screws on the frame? Not the engine screws?
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:54 PM   #7
bmwktmbill
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Pay attention to the shifter lever bolt, muffler bolts, any rack or pannier bolts.

Most of the rest stays tight for me.

Pull every electrical connection and grease it with dialectric.

Grease the steering head bearings and swing arm bolt.

Bleed the brakes with DOT 4 fluid, check all brake pads and the chain and sprockets, especially the countershaft sprocket.

Tighten the spokes and zip tie them.

Rebuild the carb rubber parts in the float system, check the fuel needle for wear.

Clean the air filter and grease it into place.
bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:37 AM   #8
zimi OP
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Hi bmwktmbill, thanks for the advices, so fare i did:

change the bearings and seals of both wheels
change oil of the fork and change one needle
change the sproket seal
grease the head bearings
check all the swingarm bearings
I wil send the rear shock absorber for a service
dismounted the carb for cleaning, need a new needle

I will keep updated on the rest
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:54 PM   #9
bmwktmbill
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The stock filter is just fine but seal it in place with grease.

Do you have a Scotts steering stabilizer?
b
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:42 PM   #10
zimi OP
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no I don't, but I will probably not need it, I am not a rally pilot, just an amateur
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:29 PM   #11
bmwktmbill
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The pros use them for a reason...it's cheating.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:16 PM   #12
zimi OP
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
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Hi guys, I remounted the carburator after cleaning and changing some seals + 152.5 main jet and 47.5 idle jet.

When I start the bike with the choke, it runs fine, but If I close the choke before the engine is warm (3min). the engine stall. And it makes a strange noisee when it stall, like the autodecompressor come is action from time to time.

I feel the same when the engine is warm, without choke, if I turn the idle screw to lower the rpm, when the engine starts to runs slower, it start again to make those noise, like the autodecompressort enters in action....

Anyone can help?

And about the neutral switch. I need to have it working for the technical check of the bike. For now, the light turn on when i go from 1st to neutral or from 2nd to neutral, but don't stat on, when I am on neutral.
What should i check?


and finally on this picture, there are all these cable tied together, is this normal?

http://www.servimg.com/image_preview...=21&u=15307704

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Old 01-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #13
bmwktmbill
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Zimi,
What RPM are you setting the idle at? I think 1400 RPM is correct.

What position is your main jet needle in?
Did you put it together correctly as shown in the manuals?

As for the neutral switch it is possible that it is failing. If you jump(connect together) the wires that go to the switch I believe the light should go on and stay on.

Will the engine start when the transmission is in neutra and the light is out?
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:03 PM   #14
Åmme
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And about the neutral switch. I need to have it working for the technical check of the bike. For now, the light turn on when i go from 1st to neutral or from 2nd to neutral, but don't stat on, when I am on neutral.
What should i check?

Done the Tuareg 3 times and no demand for a neutral switch during technical switch.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:43 PM   #15
zimi OP
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Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
to bmwktmbill, I think I was under 1400 rpm. Now I understand that maybe the auto decompression will activate if the rpm of the engine is too low. My main jet needle is in 3rd groove from the top. Yes I can start the engine normally even with the light out in neutral. I will check what happen if I jump the switch. What is your diagostic if I can still start the bike normally even if the light is out? it's not the bubble because it lights up when i pass from 1st to neutral and 2nd to neutral.

To Amme, no I mean the technical control in order to get the numberplate in Switzerland
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