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Old 01-20-2013, 04:13 PM   #811
Kedgi OP
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I'm going to check that out

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Originally Posted by atadold View Post
If you haven't already gone past Ica the oasis just a couple km off the highway is a must see.

Thanks

I'm going to check that out. I'm in Paracas tonight,

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Old 01-20-2013, 07:27 PM   #812
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Lima to Paracas

Well I got out of Lima on Sunday as planned, well sort of as planned. i kind of dilly dallied around the hostal this morning, shared some stories with other travelers, Skyped home, and had a a couple cups of coffee before i finally got geared up to leave. i was in no particular hurry because its less than 300k down to Paracas.

Murphy's law took over when i went to Scotiabank to get some cash and my card wouldn't work. Of course! This time I knew there was money in the account and I wasn't over my weekly limit so I couldn't figure out why it would not work. I still had some Peruvian cash but I knew I might not see a bank machine again for a long while.

This necessitated another trip to another Scotiabank where of course the card would not work and I got a message to call my branch. I really thought I was going to have to give up when both the Scotiabank machines would not reconize my Master card either.

I then went looking for another bank. I found an HSBC bank and my Scotiabank card worked fine. WTF! Of course all this took about an hour and traffic was building all the time. I bought gas that was frigging expensive, cost 72 soles to fill the tank. It was good high test gas though the KLR never knocked all day

I got really mixed up at an interchange to 1S (the Coastal Highway) and The GPS has no idea what to do but by trial and error I finally found the way to the highway. I was on an entrance ramp. Latin drivers have zero patience and absolutely no sense of an orderly traffic flow. The ramp was a free for all and a guy in a Honda Accord came so close to me trying to squeeze by me to get ahead 6 feet he hit my foot as i was trying to put it down to stop. I was steaming mad but said nothing. You never know who's got a gun down here.

I realized as I got to the south end of town, all the traffic was going to the beach. There are a lot of beaches along 1S just south of the city.

I got yelled at at a Peaje (toll booth) because I guess I was in the lane for cars. A cop was yelling at me. I said i can't speak Spanish which was a bit of a lie because I knew what he was saying but pretended I didn't. It is so dumb. The toll booths are like those fiberglass booths they have to sell tickets at a fair. There is no gate, nothing to prevent me from rolling though in the lane I was in but the cop had to stop all the traffic in three busy lanes just to let me cross in front of it all to get to the free Moto lane. I left shaking my head. This happens all the time in Peru. There is no sign at any of the toll booths to tell bikers where the Moto lane is. I have even seen it on the left side of the road and had a cop grab his shot gun he was so determined to get me to cross a bunch of traffic to roll though on the wrong side of the road instead of just lifting the gate for me.

I am not a fan of driving in Peru. I like Peru I love the people I hate riding my bike here. there is so far nothing fun about it. I hope it gets better in the mountains.

I knew I wanted to stay in Lima and as I got south of town I soon remembered why. from the luxury of Miraflores right back into the desert, complete with burning garbage and a huge wind off the ocean. Very hot, then the fog rolled in and it was very cold, then I turned inland and it was very hot, where I had a same direction bus force me off the road. I'm telling you the bus drivers are crazy here and the cab drivers too.

I was glad to get to Paracas. It's a nice little beach town. They roll up the carpets after dark but it's ok. You can take very reasonably priced boat rides to see penguins and sea lions. I'll likely do that.

I had a decent meal of rice and chicken. I am so tired of rice I doubt I will ever eat it again when I get home.

I was very pleasantly surprised to meet my French friends that drive the Pinzgauer as they were having their supper. We talked over a couple beers. They are here for a few days, so that's nice. My German friends are on the way here tomorrow with Malene, the Danish girl, so all of a sudden i don't feel so lonely anymore. It's all good.

My French friends related a horrible story about something they saw in Venezuela when a man was shot and killed in the car in front of them over drugs. His buddy got out of the car and fired about 30 rounds out of a machine gun at the attackers and a ricochet bullet hit Linda in the neck but did not break the skin. She still has a bruise though.


They said they met 10 people who went to VZ and 9 had problems. I am very glad the border was closed the day i tried to go there, but as far as I know, none of the other four bikes I was with at the time who waited and went had any problems.

I think this place is a little sketchy at night too but OK in the daytime. You can camp in the Paracas National Park for 1.5 soles but I don't think I'll be doing that.

I'll post the few pictures I took today, in the morning

Kedgi

Kedgi screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 07:34 PM
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #813
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Kedgi,

Lima is a big city, and I personally do not enjoy big cities in Peru or any other country when traveling by motorcycle.

One of the best experiences I have ever enjoyed was riding from Cusco through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu! The ride was only surpassed by the hospitality of the villagers. I hope you have the opportunity to travel through the Sacred Valley region, and if you do feel free to PM and I will be happy to provide route information.

All the Best,
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:16 PM   #814
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Back at You

Really am enjoying your RR, my man.

Entertaining and enlightening. I am also amazed at your diligence in taking pics and keeping your RR current. It takes a lot of work. I know because I did it for 5 weeks last year in Europe. And I had Internet everywhere, and no issues with ATMs. So keep up the great work!!

One question for you. My tour starts at Bogata and heads south to Patagonia.I am thinking of going to Cartagena beforehand and the heading to Bogata after a few days. Based on your visit to Cartagena, would you do it again? Do you know if you can fly between the two cities?

Keep on trucking. Rubber side down.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:51 AM   #815
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Cartagena

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottishman View Post
Really am enjoying your RR, my man.

Entertaining and enlightening. I am also amazed at your diligence in taking pics and keeping your RR current. It takes a lot of work. I know because I did it for 5 weeks last year in Europe. And I had Internet everywhere, and no issues with ATMs. So keep up the great work!!

One question for you. My tour starts at Bogata and heads south to Patagonia.I am thinking of going to Cartagena beforehand and the heading to Bogata after a few days. Based on your visit to Cartagena, would you do it again? Do you know if you can fly between the two cities?

Keep on trucking. Rubber side down.
Thanks

Keeping a ride report is a major time commitment, but for the most part I enjoy it. I am by myself again this morning I have had my breakfast and i'm just hanging out. My backpacker friends are taking the bus from Lima today at noon, so I'll see them tonight.

One of the hardest things about travel by yourself is filling in downtime. Being in this beachtown is nice, but it is a beachtown where I am by myself and I barely speak the language. Not quite like hanging out in Key West, Florida.

I plan to take the boat tour here where you can go a see penguins. and sea lions. It sounds pretty cool and it's cheap at 25 soles, but I prefer to wait for Jana, Niko Lawrence and Malene to do it with me. I don't want to be the only English speaker on the boat. My friends can at least translate some things for me. I am lucky that our two agendas are pretty similar for the rest of the trip so i will likely see them from time to time.

I'm glad i rode up to Cartagena. I wanted to see it. The Old Town is pretty cool. I enjoyed the ride from Bogata up. Bogata was a bugger of a place to get out of. I rode through Medellin early one morning and that was really cool, riding down into the city when you are coming north from Bogata, the view is amazing, then the climb out of the city over the mountains to Honda was incredible. Lots of trucks, but amazing mountain road.

I do know you can fly between Bogata and Cartagena. I spoke to a guy at the Hostal Boris and I stayed at in Bogata who was doing exactly that.


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Old 01-21-2013, 05:59 AM   #816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Kedgi,

Lima is a big city, and I personally do not enjoy big cities in Peru or any other country when traveling by motorcycle.

One of the best experiences I have ever enjoyed was riding from Cusco through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu! The ride was only surpassed by the hospitality of the villagers. I hope you have the opportunity to travel through the Sacred Valley region, and if you do feel free to PM and I will be happy to provide route information.

All the Best,
I loved the Miraflores area of Lima. I hated riding in Lima but once you were in Miraflores with the bike parked it was great. I personally really enjoy being in big cities and just walking around looking at stuff. The pawnshop street in Lima was pretty cool. But I sit in the park and people watch, eat at a good cafe, walk the wide sidewalks have a coke at a cafe and watch people go by. I find it all very entertaining and relaxing. That liitle Pastryshop/restaurant called La Mora was excellent in my opinion. I loved going there.

I spoke to a guy at the hostal in Lima who rode the sacred valley on a 250 he rented. He loved it. Please do send me your route info by PM. That would be great

Thanks

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Old 01-21-2013, 07:10 AM   #817
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Pictures Lima to Paracas

The day before I left Lima, Jana and i went for a walk and noticed this sign. It appears someone is trying to do something for the poor homeless cats in Lima's Kennedy Square



Here are the Australian bikes parked at the Hostal in Lima. I left around ten and i never did see these guys, they still weren't up and about.



Based on the stickers on the bikes from OZ it would seem they are headed south, so I may bump into them yet.




When i got out of the madness that is Lima traffic i stopped for a coke at roadside Tienda. I liked the names of the beaches on this sign, especially Playa Yaya




More desert




More desert




More desert




I finally got to Paracas. When I met my French friend last night he said the stretch from Lima to here was the longest 275kms he's ever driven. I had to agree




Last night's supper





Your's truly, tired but glad to have arrived in Paracas




I went for a walk last night and noticed this Toyota with Ontario plates.




and I saw all kinds of wooden cages with a rooster in each one on the roof of a house. They must have cock fighting here.



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Old 01-21-2013, 12:10 PM   #818
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Paracas Pictures

I took a few pictures today of Paracas. It is a beautiful sunny hot day. A lot of the time along the Peru coast it is overcast and still hot but today it is full on sunshine

My Hostal




It has this nice back deck on the third floor, where they serve a good breakfast that's included in the $32 price for a private room with private bath. It's pricey by Peruvian Standards but i find most of the beach towns are.




Here's the view from that back deck






In this one you can see the rooster cages on a nearby rooftop






This park is across the street from the hostal




I went for a walk and I saw this guy in the shade of a palm tree, having his lunch, with two keen observers




They would get excited and he would say "tranquillo" and they would calm back down. Tranquillo is a good Spanish word to know. It comes in handy at roadside stops when they are playing ear splitting music. If you ask for tranquillo they will usually turn it down if you're the only one there.





I saw a couple more pelicans closing in on buddy's lunch.




The beach was nearly empty today compared to when i arrived on Sunday


You can rent these umbrellas and chairs




Some people have developed some pretty nice businesses along the beach. The town overall though has a third world feel




There is already a Doubletree Resort here. It's up the beach a way and I haven't gone to see it. If doubletree is here, no doubt other big American firms will follow.


It's hot. It's important to have shade.




I stopped for a Coke and a bag of Lay's Potato Chips they come with a 10cc restaurant type packett of Mustard in them. I never thought of putting mustard on chips but it's pretty good. Now there's something you can try at home while you're reading my report and you'll almost feel like you're in Peru with me.




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Old 01-21-2013, 04:37 PM   #819
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Kedgi
while in Paracas I stayed at a hotel just off the beach, can not remember the name but everyday I would walk up to the Double tree resort and walk in like I was staying there and sit by the pool and swim. when the waiters come by and take your drink and food order and ask for a room number just say you prefer to use cash. It worked for the 3 days I was there, I even played bingo every afternoon while sunning there!

Great report by the way.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:59 PM   #820
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Quote:
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Keeping a ride report is a major time commitment, but for the most part I enjoy it.
Kedgi
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:08 PM   #821
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Kedgi
while in Paracas I stayed at a hotel just off the beach, can not remember the name but everyday I would walk up to the Double tree resort and walk in like I was staying there and sit by the pool and swim. when the waiters come by and take your drink and food order and ask for a room number just say you prefer to use cash. It worked for the 3 days I was there, I even played bingo every afternoon while sunning there!

Great report by the way.
Cal

I like your style, and believe me I'm not beyond doing that, but I think I'm going to blast out of here tomorrow. No penguins no boat ride. I'm headed for Nazca, Cusco, La Paz, Buenos Aires, Miami and Shediac. Beyond that I don't know
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:24 AM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kedgi View Post
i have done a lot of soul searching down here.

Can't tell you everything I've discovered but i can assure you, i will not tolerate friends that say they're coming over and don't show up. Or, friends that cancel at the last minute> in my mind that's total BS. Get your act together. I
effen hate it when people do that. People that make trips like this happen are reliable, truthful, trustworthy, dependable and if they tell you they are going to do something, they effen do it. It's all about honour.

I'm getting too old to put up with "I Might be there" or "we'll try and get there" It's yes or no in my book. Say yes I'll be there or no I won't and make if effen happen. No more BS I hate waiting for people you can't rely on.

make no mistake, I'm not talking about a glitch that was unavoidable in a SA trip I'm talking about idiots in NA who can;t get their shit together.

i have discovered i absolutely hate winter. ( in reality I knew that already)I will move heaven and earth to never see it again.

I really dislike small towns and the lack of life that occurs in them, I love big cities and i would love to live in one again.

Kedgi
Tranquilo

Wow what happened?

Kedgi - I hear ya, I know a guy like that, fcuking drives our of group friends nuts. Habitual bailer. Tells people he will meet them & then nada. I don't get too crazy about it, cause I'll just go make my own good time. And I just factor that he'll bail out anyway

Stay safe
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:29 AM   #823
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Dwight:

I would never "bail out" on you. I know I am tardy with comments but I am reliable in that I check into your RR every day to see your lovely photos and commentary. I know it's hard to travel alone to a far away place where you don't understand the language and try to make do and I am sure we all appreciate the time it takes for you to post on here.

I am envious of your trip but I am not an adventurer. I don't think I am capable of riding where you have been so I am content to just read and imagine being right by your side.

I am also not a fan of Winter but I suppose that we are in the best place as far as places to live in Canada. Except for our frost which burns off by noon, you are able to "nearly" ride all year round, just not commute when you leave for work early.

I can sense some frustration in your latest words. You have lots of moral support from all of us and thank you very much for bring us along and showing us "your" way

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Old 01-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #824
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Thanks Guys

Excuse my rant. I have had nothing but time on my hands, whether riding or not riding and I have thought about a lot. I ranted about something that ticked me off that's really unrelated to the ride. I'll nuke that post.

I think being in Miraflores made me realize how much I miss my Vancouver life. I hate small town life where there is nothing to do, go see,etc.. People have few interests, don't do much, It kind of sucks for me. Add Winter to that and I can't tell you how much I hate that. If I never saw snow again it would be much too soon.

Riding in Peru gets me down. Crazy drivers. Between Paracas and Nazca I was forced off the road at least ten times today. One was so close I just couldn't believe it. I would have liked to have gone back and kicked the guy's ass.

I am not enjoying the riding in Peru, at all. It is like riding across a gravel pit in staggering heat for 1000's of miles

I am at a low point. I am not enjoying the ride but I don't want to go home. What to do?

I couldn't even be bothered to climb the 100 steps or so on the Observation tower in 35 degree heat to see the Nazca Lines.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:21 PM   #825
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If your still in Nazca, I really enjoyed the flight above the lines and if my memory serves me right I found a guide to take me out to see the irrigation tunnels built 500 years ago still in use.
Living in the big city is not all its cracked up to be or maybe its just the one I live in Hang in there.
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