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Old 02-16-2008, 05:16 PM   #1
whizzerwheel OP
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Another Canisterectomy question

I know this surely exposes me for how numb I can be sometimes...but I simply can't find a complete step by step procedure for doing a canisterectomy on my 06 950. I know, I know it has been talked to death...but...spent hours..can't find it. Can find SAS removal, but don't want to do that since I've got the original exhaust on it and no plans to remove it.
Also, if the canisterectomy is done, does the fuel cap/cover have to be customized too?
Thanks so much for the help!! Please be gentle I don't spend alot of time on forums. (thats my excuse anyways)

BTW: I had some trouble on a cross country trip where I had the typical flooding/canister problems so many talk about, and my bike actually died. Two dealers (who didn't seem to know much about 950's) did a sort of trial and error rework of my vacuum lines and now the lines are re-routed to... god knows where. I'm trying to get this cleaned up.
I found a thread where guys were removing a aluminum plug in a line that comes out of the bottom of the carbs...maybe a bowl vent... and a bunch of goo and fuel would come out when the plug was removed. Then the bike would start and run again. Well the dealer up in AK removed this plug on my bike and it then was able to start. But we left the plug out and it still runs ok with no known ill effects. Just wondering if anyone knows about this. Is it ok to leave the plug out?
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Old 02-16-2008, 05:26 PM   #2
RED CAT
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wHIZZERWHEEL!

Man, you're all mixed up. Its really easy. Your stock exhaust has nothing to do with the SAS. Go to Orange Crush to the first thread at the top of the page. Its all in there. Also try KTM How.
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:43 PM   #3
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I thought without the SAS the CATs would burn up/melt, whatever?
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED CAT
Man, you're all mixed up. .... Your stock exhaust has nothing to do with the SAS.
Hm, not sure who is mixed up here... (maybe me)

The stock exhaust has a catalytic converter ... or arse-heater - depending on your viewpoint.

The SAS provides 'clean' air for the catalytic converter to work (thats the super-simplistic explanation). No SAS - cat dies.

Anyhoo, Whizzer, my guess is here is what you are looking for
http://www.ktm950.info/how/epc/sas_epc_removal.htm

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Old 02-16-2008, 07:50 PM   #5
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Mooky,

Thanks but I don't want to remove the sas.... only want to do the canisterectomy. Can't find the procedure for the canisterectomy.
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whizzerwheel
Mooky,

Thanks but I don't want to remove the sas.... only want to do the canisterectomy. Can't find the procedure for the canisterectomy.
Ah, yeah, I knew that . Sorry. Wrong link.

Try this: http://www.ktm950.info/how/canistere...terectomy.html
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:57 PM   #7
Head2Wind
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here is my paint by numbers canister removal

here http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS

and here http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/TankVenting

basically it goes like this:
  1. buy ~10' of 7/32 vent tubing (NAPA or your choice of parts house)
  2. buy 2 small sintered bronze fuel filters (will use as vent filters)
  3. follow the "950CarbsTankVentSAS" picture gallery for most of this, then "TankVentying" for larger overview.
  4. left side fairing:
    1. remove the 8 or screws and open it up, remove all contents, take it all out. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139982821250580018on
    2. on the inner panel, near the area next to the radiator tank, drill through the panel with a 1/2" drill then angle the bit vertically to create a elongated hole through the inner panel to allow the left tank vent tube to pass through vertically without kinking
    3. place the inner panel back up into the place that it nomally sets.
    4. Take a piece of hose roughly 12-16" long, attach one end to the tank vent nipple, loop it up and over the upper screw mount, tye wrap it to a small hole drilled through the web of that screw mount, plug in one of the fuel filters, then extend with hose down to the skid pan through the aforementioned hole. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139983233567440578
  5. right side fairing:
    1. remove the 8 or so screws and open it up and take it all out.
    2. follow the same idea on this side as was followed with the right side, drill through the upper web with a small drill for the upper tye wrap
    3. place the inner panel into its usual place, place a 12-16" hose attached to the tank vent, up and over the upper screw mount and then tye wrap to stand off web, down to the other filter then extend with more hose down to the skid pan.
    4. this side does NOT require drilling through the panel to exit the vent hose.
  6. Under airbox vacuum accuated valve
    1. this is the unit bolted to the lower airbox. This requires the carbs to come out, intake manifolds removed, and then remove the lower airbox. before removing the lower airbox, unbolt the valve so it will stay in the vee of the engine.
    2. when the lower airbox is removed you can now remove the valve and all the associated hoses.
    3. on the left side of the intake manifolds there are now two abandonded vacuum hose nipples
      1. remove and replace these hose nipples with 6mm x 1.0 x 10mm socket head bolts
  7. SAS blank plates
    1. the rear cylinder is easy to get to, it is on the left side of the rear cylinder
    2. the accuating valve that was located aft of the airbox is associated with the SAS system. remove it if not already gone
    3. the hose systems that go forward to the front cylinder can be removed now that the lower airbox is removed
    4. Now onto the front plate:
      1. disconnect the front connector on the coil plug to gain better access to the upper bolt that holds the SAS plate
      2. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984290129395842
      3. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984324489134226
      4. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984358848872610
      5. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984388913643698
    5. remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator, remove the 3 bolts that hold the oil tank
      1. from the right side of the bike looking directly at the lower bolt on the SAS plate you will notice that there is a hose/tube that covers up the access to the bolt
      2. taking a long slender, strong pry bar (screw driver works), put the tip against the forward side of the hose/tube then the "heel" against the oil tank mount tab, push/pry the handle forward to reveal the bolt head, hold this position, go to next step http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984187050180690
      3. with a 6" 1/4 drive and 8mm socket, remove the lower bolt.
      4. you can choose to leave the reed valves in or remove them. if you remove them you will need to put a small about of RED high temp RTV on the interior gasket surface of the blank plates to seal them. i typically remove the reeds.
      5. reverse the previous steps to install the front plate, I usually hold the plate in place with sealant on it, hold it in place and start the upper bolt, then pry the hose/tube/tank to then install the lower bolt.
  8. Carb bowl vents
    1. cut two pieces of vent hose, one 10" and one 11" long,
    2. remove and toss the Y hose
    3. the 11" one goes on the front carb, 10" on the rear
    4. the rear carb hose will go down through the old Y hose
    5. knock out the two alum inserts that were associated with the lower airbox vacuum valve, slightly enlarge the left side one, block the other like this photo: http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139982430408555938
    6. the front carb hose will go down through the ENLARGED hole that used to be one of the bolt/mounts for the vacuum valve.
This should be it. For SAS/Canister removal

go here for video series on how to disect the mufflers: http://www.youtube.com/user/head2winnd
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster
I thought without the SAS the CATs would burn up/melt, whatever?
Heard the same thing
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED CAT
Man, you're all mixed up. Its really easy. Your stock exhaust has nothing to do with the SAS. Go to Orange Crush to the first thread at the top of the page. Its all in there. Also try KTM How.
RED CAT....I read the same thing..the Cat (pardon the pun) is in the stock exhaust, if you take away the SAS the Cat will burn up causing major issues.
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Old 02-16-2008, 10:24 PM   #10
RED CAT
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SAS/Cat.

20,000kms on mine so far and still waiting for the major issues. So what if the cats die.
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Old 02-17-2008, 07:22 AM   #11
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OK guys, thanks for all the information!
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:25 AM   #12
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Here's the best thread I found.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126489
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Old 02-18-2008, 10:16 AM   #13
VTvfr
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For the 990:

All I see you have to do is install resistors, plug airbox cover hole. Then

From what I see here: http://www.ktm950.info/how/canistere...terectomy.html

For the 990, why not run the vent lines straight down towards the bashplate as seen here:


Also, no vaccum line pluging needed if you just install the "S" from
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=237372&page=6
pic in post# 77


Am I missing something?

It seems like everyone is running a buch of hose all over and through the plastics for some reason.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:10 AM   #14
Head2Wind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTvfr
For the 990:

All I see you have to do is install resistors, plug airbox cover hole. Then

From what I see here: http://www.ktm950.info/how/canistere...terectomy.html

For the 990, why not run the vent lines straight down towards the bashplate as seen here:

205 here dude..... but the reason is: up and over the upper fairing mount/boss with a loop of hose results in less liquid fuel burping/venting to the bash plate. also known as more tank head room
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Old 02-18-2008, 10:43 PM   #15
cpmodem
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Straight down is the way the Rallye bikes were done for years. As H2W states, you will get some liquid fuel out the end of the hoses when run that way. The fuel must go through a lot of tiny passages before it gets to the hoses. In my case it is a small amount (never enough to puddle) and the hoses don't go all of the way to the skid plate (they terminate just below the radiator), so its a non issue for me. If you object to a little fuel spray under certain conditions, just run the hoses like Ken does. I see no problem with routing them that way either.
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