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Old 12-26-2012, 08:23 AM   #31
lucky6600 OP
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Location: Cromwell CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
I have a straight /5 frame that is free for the taking should you want it. I can't offer the subframe to you, since I turned it into a paddock stand for my RD350. Let me know. I'm in Mid-coast Maine, don't know if you ever get up this way.

Thank you so much for the generous offer. In the past, I will just get into my car and drive to your location. However, I have to pace myself this time, and I really have to focus on this project first before putting myself even deeper.

Once again !! THANK YOU.

CT is also the state that they don't give out title for older cars/bikes so that makes life much easier sometimes.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bamboo View Post
Forget the hinges and make a lift off seat. To do this add another bolt to the seat pan and another hole opposite the existing lock pin. Makes it much easier to access the tool tray if you decide to go with panniers... See more here (note: he says this is for a /6 seat, but you can add a plate to the /5 subframe to make it work, or mount the bolt to the subframe and put a hole in your seat pan,,,) http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/seatmod/index.htm

That's an awesome idea ..... but only problem is I have the /5 SWB which has only a bar connecting the sub-frame










Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
$60 for a pair of Aluminum turn signals is a very good friend indeed. They go for much more than that.

You're doing a good job.

Since the original frame is trash. Take the data plate off the head stock before you throw it away. Souvenir.
Yes, I will say it's a fair deal considering someone painted it black and it took me about a hour to make it looks like aluminum again.



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Old 01-30-2013, 08:51 AM   #32
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The bike is at the stage of testing ...
It took me awhile to find those good used exhaust system, and I just can't wait to fire the bike up....








However, life is alway full of unexpected.
While I was trying to make sure the point was set correctly, this happened.....






It looks like this is not that uncommon for a 40 years old machine according to this http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm

It looks like my choices would be either getting a Boyer, $200. Or tap it which can be done at a friend's shop, but he suggests having the engine off to make it happen.....
It has taken me about 2 months to get everthing together now .. take everything apart again ??

I understand an electric ignition is the way to go, but this bike is NOT going to put miles on it after it is riable. therefore, it doesn't have to be "reliable".

What would you do if you were me ??





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Old 01-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #33
chasbmw
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Why not fit a crank mounted ignition, I think that Eduralast make a cheap one. . The Boyer will still need a thread on the end of the cam to secure the magnets.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
Why not fit a crank mounted ignition, I think that Eduralast make a cheap one. . The Boyer will still need a thread on the end of the cam to secure the magnets.

If that's the case, there is only one way then ....


And the crank mount ignition isn't really that cheap ... http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Sea...unted+ignition
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:57 AM   #35
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Let's see a photo without the A/R unit.

Is there enough meat on the end to mount the Boyer, you would still need to drill the end of the cam, but getting the drill hole absolutely central is not really necessary, and could maybe be done at home
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:28 PM   #36
disston
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When I broke one almost 30 years ago I sold the bike as scrap to another mechanic. He bought a new cam but it was a 336 and he didn't want to do that. So he ended up epoxying the broken piece of thread back on. I never saw the repair myself but he had the bike for a little while and I think it did hold. Just have to be twice as careful as before.

Lon was his name. He used to date my girlfriend of those days before I knew her. He wrecked my bike or dropped it anyway one night under DuPont Circle in the tunnel. He called my girlfriend to pick him up and she showed up with her 1976 Dodge Aspen. They put my '74 R90/6 in the trunk and Caroline drove Lon home.

Lon later told the story that he thought he could ride this bike drunk, "Because Charlie rode it drunk all the time."
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:14 PM   #37
spo123
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Eek Pia!

Get some BRIGHT LIGHT, a sharp CENTER PUNCH, and a small Ball Peen HAMMER.
Remove the ADVANCE UNIT, carefully.....try to leave AS MUCH OF THE BROKEN BOLT stub as possible......PB Blaster and let it soak in.
Now the difficult part.

The broken bolt WILL have a very slight RIDGE across where it snapped.
VERY CAREFULLY, with the motorcycle in first gear, probably on the center stand....(either with or without the front wheel).....IF the wheel is removed...SECURE THE center stand, so it will not FOLD up.

TAP the center punch CAREFULLY and methodically against the aforementioned ridge, about halfway from the center to the outer edge.....What you need to do is to UNSCREW the broken stub with the center punch and the hammer.....It CAN be done......

This may take lots of TIME, SWEARING, SMASHING other things.....etc.

Do NOT give up.....FIRM, but not SMASHING the punch....Once it begins to move....SMILE.
Please report back to us.
The THREADS might just be SAVED.

There are a few other possibilities...I will let someone else chime in with these.

See 'ya,
spo
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #38
Houseoffubar
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+1 patience, and care can remove anything!
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:31 PM   #39
JonnyCash
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Guys, it's not a bolt that broke, the snout of the camshaft has(had)a threaded stud on it. The ATU goes over it and is held in place with a nut and lock washer. That said, maybe you could grind off what is left of the stud, and then drill it and tap it for a bolt. It would be pretty touchy work, that's for sure!
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:42 PM   #40
bikerfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
Guys, it's not a bolt that broke, the snout of the camshaft has(had)a threaded stud on it. The ATU goes over it and is held in place with a nut and lock washer. That said, maybe you could grind off what is left of the stud, and then drill it and tap it for a bolt. It would be pretty touchy work, that's for sure!
I had one break 25 years ago, I drilled and tapped it for a screw, still holding after all these years. it's not that big a deal, no need to remove the engine, sell the bike, scrap it, or spend hundreds on a different ignition system. an hours work and a 5 cent screw and your in business again.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:30 PM   #41
Kai Ju
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So instead of preserving what's left file the stub perfectly flat and square, without touching the flat spot that keys the spark advance, find the center and carefully punch it.
You can check whether you're centered by turning/cranking the engine over and watching the punch mark.
If it's centered it won't move, if it isn't you'll be seeing a circle.
(A light punch mark can be adjusted if it's off center by punching right next to it and letting the punch forge material into the first hole)
Use a small drill to start with and have a helper, with a good eye, tell you whether you're going straight in on the plane that you can't see.
It'll help to remove the front wheel and fender, or go all out and remove the forks ( Now there's another can of worms ).
Slow and steady does it because a broken drill bit is far harder to remove than simply drilling a straight hole. Use cutting oil or at least some sort of lubrication to keep the drill from biting and breaking off, ditto for when you tap the hole.
Work your way up to the right size, tap it and either install a stud or just use a bolt.

Pat yourself on the back for doing a nice job.

Pictures for the rest of us would be great too.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:48 PM   #42
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OK .. It's alive ... it runs .... it runs ...

Considering it was only 25F that night, I am very happy about what I saw




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Mgumfna_eI




And ....NO, it was hold up by one drop of super glue.

I received the bushing from Paul yesterday, and put it in good use this evening.













It will be tapped with 4 mm threads tomorrow....


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Old 02-04-2013, 10:53 PM   #43
Big Bamboo
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:44 AM   #44
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky6600 View Post
OK .. It's alive ... it runs .... it runs ...

Considering it was only 25F that night, I am very happy about what I saw







I received the bushing from Paul yesterday, and put it in good use this evening.













It will be tapped with 4 mm threads tomorrow....


What a brilliant idea. Is the bushing made of aluminum ? Looks that way in the picture.
That certainly takes most of the stress out of a very stressful situation.

Nice job by you and Paul.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:07 PM   #45
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Done and Done !!

What's next challange?



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