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Old 04-06-2008, 04:02 PM   #1
Hair OP
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Cam bolts stripping.

In the past I have had problems with the Allen part of the cam bolts rounding off.
So when I remove the bolts I make sure that my Allen tools are high quality with no ware.

But that didn't help me this time.

This is the second time that I have checked the valve clearance on my SE. This time I wanted to record the shim sizes so I could plan ahead for when I might have to change a shim.

I was using a brand new Allen tool. I held the ratchet head in place. But the Allen head stripped out anyway. The bolt didn't move from its factory setting.

So now I have a few months to figure out how to remove the bolt.

It really seems that the 950 cam bolts are unacceptably soft.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:23 PM   #2
larryboy
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Sounds like you need to make a custom allen wrench. That's probably the best way to get out the bad one too. Take the next size up, grind each edge until you have to hit it to go in. Is there room to put the socket on an impact driver? Impact drivers are the only way to go for phillips and allen fasteners.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:30 PM   #3
RED CAT
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Metric?

Metric allen wrenches?
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:32 PM   #4
ceeco
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Yeah...somethings wrong here?? I have not heard of this issue before. What size and brand of tool are you using??
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:04 PM   #5
kkug
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I wanted to remove my caps and then I noticed that I would have the same problem.

So my plan is to have a friend help me. As I am torquing on the bolt to loosen it up I will have him use a long punch of some type and rap it with a hammer.

I have been putting this off a very long time but I know that some day I will have to tackle it.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:21 PM   #6
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I use a new metric tool each time. The tool fits about as good as one can hope for. That is why this brothers me so much. Those bolts just don't seem hard enough.

I like the idea of tapping it with punch. Anything that would get it going would be a big help.

From what I have seen of air impact drivers leaves me to think that that is not the answer.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:34 PM   #7
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Tim

this is what you need, you will then need a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a 3/8 drive allen

hand held impact drivers work wonders on soft and over tightened or locktited fasteners

instead of rapping it with a hammer and punch this directs the hammer force directly onto the fastener

Will it fit in where you need to use it?
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:24 PM   #8
cpmodem
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Take it easy when tightening these fasteners folks. They only require 10nm/18nm.
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:21 PM   #9
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
Take it easy when tightening these fasteners folks. They only require 10nm/18nm.
+1. Sounds like they're being way over-tightened.
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:15 AM   #10
Hair OP
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The factory or dealer tightened the bolts.
Given that I have had plenty of cam bolts start to strip even when I followed the torque spec.

Oh and lastly I never use ball tipped allens on these bolts. Only the stright ones.


Lets face it these bolts are crap.
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:17 AM   #11
Hair OP
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Scott
I have thought about one of these tools. I think that I will start using it to loosen the bolts. The location of the stripped bolt was the one bolt that I could have used it on. The frame is in the way of most bolts.

Now If I can only figure out a way to get that stripped one out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ganshert
Tim

this is what you need, you will then need a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a 3/8 drive allen

hand held impact drivers work wonders on soft and over tightened or locktited fasteners

instead of rapping it with a hammer and punch this directs the hammer force directly onto the fastener

Will it fit in where you need to use it?
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:25 AM   #12
cpmodem
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cheese or apeshit?

Since I've removed these fasteners on other LC8's dozens of times without a problem, I'm leaning toward some gorilla going apeshit tightening them last time. Butt, nevertheless, the old parts need to come out so you can install new. Have you thought of something along this line?
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-07-2008, 11:36 AM   #13
Hair OP
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I am not sure what that is.

Is it some type of bolt remover?
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:41 AM   #14
cpmodem
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It's similar to an EZ-Out bolt extractor. Maybe one of the sizes will fit the rounded out hex recess.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-07-2008, 11:43 AM   #15
Lost Again
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Me too

I just did the valves on my 950 Adventure and sure as shitte, I had one of the cam bolt heads start to strip on me. I did manage to get it out with no problems. I took the cam bolt to the hardware store and they matched it with a new bolt. The only difference was the size of the allen head, the new one was larger and felt more secure when tightening to spec. I have ordered a few replacement bolts online and next time I do the valves I will replace the bolt. I suspect it was the angle of attack that caused the problem in the first place. There is not much room to work on a few of those bolts. Next time I will know better. But I have to agree, the bolts did seem pretty damn soft, all things considered.
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