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Old 10-20-2012, 12:05 PM   #16
CSF OP
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The swing arm bolt looks good but, I think the prices of the bearings and seals on the frame warrant replacing them. It'll be more work to try and clean them then the bearings are worth. As for the swing arm, I'm going to order a kit to rebuild it. The kit upgrades the bearings to a caged bearing too. Just knowing that they're new and fresh and properly greased will be worth it.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSF View Post

When I was taking everything apart yesterday, I found a lot of my connecters (see pic below) were bent or broken. Has anyone found something better I can replace them with, I was sort of thinking about welding nuts in place. I hate being on the side of a trail tring to fix something and have lots of easily lost small pieces...


I safety wired mine in place, try that.

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Old 10-26-2012, 03:48 AM   #18
wrya1
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Progress

Thanks for posting, it is heartening to watch your progress! I am about 2 steps behind you with my own 2002 640Adv, thought I'd start a project while I am between jobs waiting for the first child to be born (any day now...)



I am sure you would not miss this given the extent of your work so far, but have a good look at the carb. I have pulled mine apart using the fantastic BST-40 bible on the site. It was dirty as hell, all plastic parts were shot and my needle was down to 30% of the original diameter:



That was a near miss! I can +1 for the water pump shaft seal, if you go anywhere near the head it is a must do.

And some headlight protection; my Touratech Spectacles were in mint condition after 10,000km. They broke in a fall, I rode 80km further and now I am up for a new headlight. And it had to be the more expensive low beam one that blocked the stone

Look forward to watching your progress

wrya1 screwed with this post 10-26-2012 at 03:56 AM Reason: smaller pics (hopefully)
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:15 AM   #19
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measures

A question? Can you measure the distance of the headlamps from left to right (outside) of the glass section only? not the entire unit. And also are the units 90mm or not?

Kinda a project going on and these lights might be useful.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #20
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wrya1 -

wow, I'm not sure how I'm funding this project with a decent full time job and no kids - but that's awesome. I'm sure you'll be a head of me in no time.

Good call on the carb, my engine was apparently rebuilt 2 years ago, so I'm hoping the carb was looked after in that operation. But I will be looking into it myself to ensure its in good order. Nice catch on your part, that needle looked terrible.

I have got a bit further with some sanding on the plastics, and more cleaning on the swing arm but nothing picture or post worthy right now. I'm also going to be away for 2 weeks so that will slow things down as well... by the time I get back I may need to come up with some garage heating to - winter is on its way here .

Start a build thread, its great to have some communal knowledge on this kind of project.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:55 AM   #21
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Awesome build thread!

I'll be doing the same thing to my 2002 soon as well.

A couple of recommendations from your original list:

SeatConcepts for new foam and seat cover
Leo Vince slip-On to replace the OEM Supertrapp (sounds great and half the weight)
Real hand guards
Re-build water pump & check cam roller bearings
Check to see if main shaft bearing has been upgraded
Mugara Jack hydraulic clutch kit
SuperSprox rear sprocket and RK chain (if you do a lot of tight trails get a 15 counter sprocket)
SealSavers (my seals would always get dirty and weep without)
Rally Risers handlebar risers from Rally Connex
Loctite every bolt you re-install...
Re-build BST or better yet install FCR
Cover inside of skid plate with foam tape, helps with noise a bit
yada...yada..yada...

Dam these bikes can get expensive...but fun!
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juames screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 06:33 PM
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:41 AM   #22
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:19 AM   #23
johnno950
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replace seal 0760 1222270,located in lhs engine side cover,the seal get hard/worn and can cause internal leakage ,crankshaft doesnt get enough oil,would also replace choke/throttle cables/air filter,and check condition of air intake hoses/coolant hoses.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:15 PM   #24
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnno950 View Post
would also replace choke/throttle cables/air filter,and check condition of air intake hoses/coolant hoses.
I'm in (hopefully) the home stretch of sorting out my 2002 Adventure which has been driving me nuts with lots of weird subtle problems; that plus lots of standing.

Hopefully only major things left are sorting out fueling on the PHM40 carb I use, and replacing the gear lever seal that's oozing... and getting a new battery.

If you're allergic to over-spending, maybe get your cables refabricated. I Couldn't get a throttle cable at a decent price in reasonable time - a co in my area (I live in Johannesburg) rebuilt the cable for about $25 instead of the $40+ the agents wanted.

Def replace the air filter - cheap, and helps the breathing - almost certainly clogged/perishing if prev owner was not big on maintenance.

Rebuilding the forks is not that hard - only trick is a skinny 22mm spanner to get into a narrow but - I bought a reg'lar one and had a machine shop grind it down. You can google for the service manual (WP4860MXMA2003-ktm-fork-manual is the one I use - seems to be right.) Even if you don't strip it completely, you can clean it, flush old fluid, refill. Check your steering head bearing is good.

Def check routing of all wires and cables - make sure there's no chafing going on.

If it's stood a lot, strip fuel pump and check diaphragm in good nick.

They're brilliant bikes when they're going well.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:00 AM   #25
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Thanks all...

I'll add all of the suggestions to the "to do list". There hasn't been much to update in the last little while. I had been away in Japan for a couple weeks and it took a week to recover from that. Now my priorities are to finish up a few home reno projects before all the guests arrive for the holidays. So work on the bike has slowed to a crawl...

I have started sanding the tank and fairings.

I made a few more Kijiji purchases:

I picked up an uninstalled full Big Gun exhaust quiet core system. I know they're not the best, but the price was right, and the guy thew in a Hindle race pipe as well. I may end up modding the Hindle with a quite core and running that. But I'd like to test the Big Gun first.

I also picked up a revalved and in excellent condition rear shock. Unfortunately it has a much to light for my fat ass spring installed, so I'll have to track down something more appropriate. The guy threw in an aluminum left foot peg holder from a 625 so I can now mount up a set of decent pegs... it was pretty chewed up though so I may need to have someone fill it in with some weld.

I'll put up some pics of that stuff soon...
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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Tank and cowel prepping

So, again progress is slow right now. Every time I turn around there is something else that demands my attention...

I did start the sanding and prepping on my cowl and tank though. I drained the gas out tonight and pulled all of the fuel connections and the sensor. I think I should replace the shut off filters in the pics or maybe I'll just add an inline fuel filter between the tank and the carb if its a pain in the ass to get the other ones.





(sorry, cell phone pics suck but you get the idea):


I did some scouting for some paint and I think I'll just end up doing a rattle can job. I can get decent quality or at least good enough for a dirt bike. There is a VW candy/frost white at the local car parts store that looks like it will work, but I'll get the sanding done and primer on there before any decisions are made.

That's it for now.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:06 AM   #27
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Any idea what the metal plate on the underside of the tank shown in your picture is for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSF View Post


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Old 12-20-2012, 07:26 AM   #28
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I thought it was a plate at first too, but its actually a molded in part of the tank. Not sure what its for or why its there, if someone knows please chime in, I'd love to know.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #29
CSF OP
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new year

okay, the holidays are over the champagne has been drunk. Now its time to get back to business. I cleaned all the crap out of my garage and started back on the 640 today. I probably should have worked on something more important but it was warm here so I sanded, filled, sanded and painted.

After lots of sanding, I cleaned the tank and mask with varsol. Usually I'd use denatured alcohol but, I had none around.


Here are the filled and sanded parts being hung:


Here they are primed (its kind of cloudy in the garage from the spray):


I'll do some more sanding and painting tomorrow and post the results.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:23 PM   #30
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Isnt that a spot on the mould where the rallye has an extra petcock? Presume its so the back tanks can be drained into the main??

Another thing to do is change the thermostat, read of one instance where the owner thinks a faulty thermostat caused his head to overheat and crack, being the not so proud owner of a cracked head I wish I had been more vigilant on that incase it had a bearing on mine.
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