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Old 10-17-2012, 08:14 PM   #46
c.vestal
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Tank came with a little hardware and a slightly longer fuel line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wentjo View Post
Did you have to lengthen your fuel lines and wires for the larger tank?
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #47
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No codes flashing, acts like it flooded or something.
There is a 500 EXC thread that has a ton of posts troubleshooting aftermarket tank install issues.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by neduro View Post
The 450 I demo'd got somewhere between 50 and 60mpg, which impressed me mightily.



Now, what remains to be seen is why I got 29.5 miles per gallon (I was even being somewhat nice, during break in), when that is so far from what I got on the 450.

I thought that sounded funny when you mentioned it in South Fork. Are you sure you had the loaner bike MPG correct?
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:46 PM   #49
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Post on other thread regarding a miss-sized clamp within the tank on a clockwork unit that would not allow full pressure to build up.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:53 AM   #50
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Ned - What was your rationale for choosing the 500 over the 450 for race purposes?
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:57 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Nice write-up as usual Ned, good to see you finally embracing the 21st century with FI.... I kid, I kid!



First thing I do on every KTM is to remove those ugly pointy square bolts on both sides that like to take chunks out of the lower triple clamp.

Now here is my tip for you, bet you won't have to run to the hardware store for this one: take a rear sprocket bolt and use a die to thread the shank all the way. Now when you put that all the way into the hole on the frame, your forks should just clear the ECU/regulator without restricting the turning radius, and it leaves a nice rounded bolt head without any sharp edges as a stop that won't damage your triple clamps.

The newer torx head sprocket bolts like the one in the middle are the best because they are even flatter than the old ones.


Fantastic post Lukas!!

Thank you.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:51 AM   #52
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Hey Ned,

I wondering if KTM has addressed some of the obvious deficiencies that plagued the RFS bikes. For example, unsealed Molex electrical connectors, butter soft wheel spacers, frequent water pump seal failures, hydraulic clutch slave cylinder leaking.....etc. I know they're completely different bikes but I'm hoping they had a shift in their design philosophy to include "Ready to Race" and "Ready for BFE." Please keep us posted on the non-consumables that wear out or fail, especially after you've battle tested it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:36 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by todd83-900t View Post
Hey Ned,

I wondering if KTM has addressed some of the obvious deficiencies that plagued the RFS bikes. For example, unsealed Molex electrical connectors, butter soft wheel spacers, frequent water pump seal failures, hydraulic clutch slave cylinder leaking.....etc. I know they're completely different bikes but I'm hoping they had a shift in their design philosophy to include "Ready to Race" and "Ready for BFE." Please keep us posted on the non-consumables that wear out or fail, especially after you've battle tested it.
Seriously? I have owned an 07 KTM XCF-W 250, a 10 EXC 530, an 11 XC-W 300 and I now own a 13 XC-W 500 and I have never had any issues with those items.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wentjo View Post
Hitchcock Industries out of Englewood. He has done 4 or 5 of my bikes, makes a big difference. My 500 use to glance off rocks pretty bad, night and day difference after revalve.
I'm a fan if Neil's, but honestly, the stock suspension settings are so good, that I believe any revalve is a tradeoff that will make the bike worse in one direction or another.

It might be worth it, depending on how you ride your bike (and where)... but the days of a mandatory revalve are gone, and every KTM I've revalved since 2009 was, on balance, a worse tradeoff after the revalve than it was stock (even though I got what I asked for).

Better small bump sensitivity generally equals worse bottoming resistance, as an example of tradeoff- so it might be better in rocky/ rooty trails but no longer be as graceful over whoops.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
I thought that sounded funny when you mentioned it in South Fork. Are you sure you had the loaner bike MPG correct?
100% sure. I put 1.4 gallons in after 80 miles in the 450. I called KTM of Aspen, my dealer, about this, and he was surprised as I am. We agreed to let the bike break in fully before worrying about it, if the bad mileage continues we'll look at what map is in it.

Quote:
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Ned - What was your rationale for choosing the 500 over the 450 for race purposes?
I could get a 500 (450's were gone) was the big reason!

I loved the 450, and I felt able to be really aggressive with it. The 500 is a little more intimidating, but it doesn't push on thru corners like big bores sometimes do, and it pulls so well I'm willing to bet I'll be just as fast with some time on it.

My new joke is that "you have to be in the right gear on the 500, it's just that there are 3 right gears at any given speed".
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:12 PM   #55
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Please keep us posted on the non-consumables that wear out or fail, especially after you've battle tested it.
I'm a little unclear on what you mean. RFS bikes were many generations of engine design ago. Most of the issues you mention were solved years ago, and there's certainly no relationship in engine architecture re: water pumps, etc.

I will say, I think the new engines since RFS days are getting more and more durable. The RFS valves always moved for me, new bikes seem immune to that. I raced Dakar on a stock engine 450 XCW (carbed XC4, subsequent design to RFS) and it held up perfectly. I did have a leaky clutch master on Day 12, I find it hard to hold that shortcoming against the bike. In fact, I'm still riding that clutch master (with a new seal) and that engine in my trailbike.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:14 PM   #56
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Ned,

How would the bib's hold up on a bigger ADV bike like a 990 or 950SE?
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:21 PM   #57
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Ned,

How would the bib's hold up on a bigger ADV bike like a 990 or 950SE?
They do alright, but they build heat faster due to weight. So, you need a very tight fitting mousse, very well lubed, to have much durability.

The best mousse for the rear 908 on a 2.5 rim is a Michelin 140-80/90-18 DESERT mousse, which is different than the other 140s they have. It is the only mousse I've ever installed that I would describe as a true challenge without a mousse changer.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:53 PM   #58
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I really agree on the suspension and revalving,my stock 2011 works better suspension wise then any KTM Ive tried,ever.
I weigh 185 so Im about the right weight for the stock springs ,I think.
It just works smooth,singletrack or fast rough fireroad it tracks and makes bumps disappear. I think the suspension works so well it makes the bike feel lighter on gnarly trails,it isnt bobbing and weaving around,rarely bottoms,it just works.

Then I go a little faster and it works better,I wouldnt mess with it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:55 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
They do alright, but they build heat faster due to weight. So, you need a very tight fitting mousse, very well lubed, to have much durability.

The best mousse for the rear 908 on a 2.5 rim is a Michelin 140-80/90-18 DESERT mousse, which is different than the other 140s they have. It is the only mousse I've ever installed that I would describe as a true challenge without a mousse changer.
They can last for awhile on a big dual purpose-ish bike like a 990? Speed and weight have always seemed like the enemy of the mousse inserts.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:28 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
They do alright, but they build heat faster due to weight. So, you need a very tight fitting mousse, very well lubed, to have much durability.

The best mousse for the rear 908 on a 2.5 rim is a Michelin 140-80/90-18 DESERT mousse, which is different than the other 140s they have. It is the only mousse I've ever installed that I would describe as a true challenge without a mousse changer.
Thanks, with this being said would you recommend them for a big bike for daily use, no interstate, lots of gravel, lots of pavement?
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