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Old 10-22-2012, 10:23 PM   #16
MotorCade OP
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Thanks all! I'll try to get some pics and ride report stuff up asap. I've already put two tankfuls through, and I'm driving down to Anaheim for a few days for business tomorrow. Gonna hit Decker canyon and the PCH early in the morning on the way down.

So far, I think the preload is set a bit high - I asked them to set it up for a 215 lb guy (me) and I think they heard 315. It rides better with my son (about 80 lbs) on the back. Otherwise, way too stiff. I can live with that for a bit, until I'm back at home.

I'm getting a little under 40mpg so far, but I've been varying speeds a lot, and the engine is still breaking in.

I think 46-50 seems reasonable based on that, and is still plenty good enough for me. Makes me wonder if I shouldn't have held out for the 2013's bigger tank, though... nah, I'm good.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:32 AM   #17
sfrider300
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Suspension is the most disappointing part of the V7, imo. Should soften up a bit over the first 1K, but the persistent problem is getting jolted by potholes etc. The shocks are mediocre. I went to Ikons and was satisfied with the improvement.

Broken in, you can count on a 200 mile range averaging 70 mph, maybe less depending on your load.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:09 PM   #18
MotorCade OP
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She also really really doesn't like doing anything until fully warmed. Even with cold start lever selected, stalls at idle until warm. About 200 miles on bike now. Will this resolve after first service?
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:21 PM   #19
Pokeyjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorCade View Post
She also really really doesn't like doing anything until fully warmed. Even with cold start lever selected, stalls at idle until warm. About 200 miles on bike now. Will this resolve after first service?
No, it's a fueling issue. I had a richer map loaded as soon as I bought the bike. Mine's still a tad cold-blooded (couple blocks), but then its fine.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:40 PM   #20
MotorCade OP
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Will the dealer do that, or am I needing to look aftermarket?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:14 PM   #21
rocker59
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I'd check to see that the fast idle lever is adjusted so its cable is opening the throttle as much as adjustment will allow.

Many of them are not.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #22
MotorCade OP
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That's worth a look. Mine seems like it operates more like a fast idle button than a traditional choke. On/off instead of modulated.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:48 PM   #23
rbm
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Originally Posted by MotorCade View Post
Will the dealer do that, or am I needing to look aftermarket?
Go aftermarket with the ECU update by Todd at Guzzitech. There is good feedback from the Guzzi community on his ECU mods and to the support you will get if you do go that route. Also, to my knowledge after discussion with my dealer, there are no ECU flash upgrades available for the V7 so you probably have the latest map installed from the factory.

Coldbloodedness in the form of surging, poor fast idle, stalling, etc. is a typical issue with the V7. The fueling from the factory is very lean, to get the emissions levels to the US specs. There are many aftermarket schemes to try and overcome these cold blooded symptoms -- canasterectomy, Fatduc, Power Commander V with O2 Optimizer, fooling the engine temp sensor -- but the best is a new fueling map.

I did a canasterectomy and added a PC-V with O2 Optimizer to my V7R. I found the cold blooded behaviour abated but the change was not worth the investment in the PC-V alone. I'd be inclined to go first with the ECU remapping from Gussitech, then with a PC-V later.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by MotorCade View Post
That's worth a look. Mine seems like it operates more like a fast idle button than a traditional choke. On/off instead of modulated.
It is a fast idle lever, not a choke. If you are experiencing a binary behaviour with the lever, check the gap between the fast idle cam and the TB actuator on the right side. It's probable that there is a large (~2mm) gap between them. If so, approach the dealer to see if they can close that gap by adjusting the TB. I had this problem. Before closing that gap, I found the fast idle was slow -- about 1400 RPM at full travel. After adjustment, I had normal fast idle, with lots of range. Check this thread:
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:25 PM   #25
MotorCade OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbm View Post
It is a fast idle lever, not a choke. If you are experiencing a binary behaviour with the lever, check the gap between the fast idle cam and the TB actuator on the right side. It's probable that there is a large (~2mm) gap between them. If so, approach the dealer to see if they can close that gap by adjusting the TB. I had this problem. Before closing that gap, I found the fast idle was slow -- about 1400 RPM at full travel. After adjustment, I had normal fast idle, with lots of range. Check this thread:
No, I know it's not a choke, just trying to describe the action. It sounds like I need to adjust it and also start lookin to modify the fueling.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:00 PM   #26
Pokeyjoe
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Quote:
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Go aftermarket with the ECU update by Todd at Guzzitech.
Todd did mine.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:41 AM   #27
sfrider300
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To me, this seems like a lot of trouble just to not to have to wait 3-4 minutes before taking off on the bike. Granted, there are times when I'm in a hurry and wish I could zoom off. Most of the time, it's not an issue.

There's even a vanity aspect to it, when you start up a beautiful-sounding bike (e.g., V7 /w Mistrals) in public and let it run awhile while you casually arrange your gear and finally, lastly, slip on the helmet. Of course, you could do that even if you don't need to . . .
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #28
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Well, if I'm going to do that, I'll need the kickstand switch delete. Either way, gotta mod.
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:49 PM   #29
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:57 PM   #30
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Here, have another!



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