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Old 02-22-2014, 06:01 AM   #1
Capt. REDBEARD OP
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Scotts Steering Damper Install

2004 KTM 950

The nuts on the top clamp holding on the handle bar mounts are interfering/hitting the steering lock guide on the steering head tube.

Anyone have experience with this?
I am thinking of just grinding it down but I don't want to make a rash decision. Scotts is closed until Monday and I have all weekend available to work on the bike so I would like to get it installed and complete my winter build.



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Old 02-22-2014, 06:49 AM   #2
Lennys
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Is this a BRP clamp ? Mine has a bolt that runs up threw the clamp and holds the bar mount, the head of the bolt being much thinner then that nylock nut.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:58 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lennys View Post
Is this a BRP clamp ? Mine has a bolt that runs up threw the clamp and holds the bar mount, the head of the bolt being much thinner then that nylock nut.
It is a scotts triple clamp. That nylock nut is the culprit. The "bolt" is pressed into the top of the bar mount and comes down through the top triple with some rubber bushings. I tried to remove the nylock nuts and remove the bar mounts from the triple but it is not happening. I bought this set-up used, and there was a bit of corrosion so I am not sure if the through bolts are frozen or pressed in......
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Old 02-22-2014, 07:48 AM   #4
Boatman
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I had to bend the stering lock down a touch on my SE. Same issue. I called Scott's and that was what they suggested.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatman View Post
I had to bend the stering lock down a touch on my SE. Same issue. I called Scott's and that was what they suggested.
boom!
someone get this man a beer!

I appreciate the help.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:15 AM   #6
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Guessing you may do just that due to the corrosion/ease of that option but just looked at mine and the the bolt is reversed. Went in from the bottom up so it clears the lock no problem. I put it on a 12 990 but should be similar. So maybe mounted wrong by the first guy??
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:56 AM   #7
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Think it came assembled but if someone had it apart for some reason I can see why they put nut on the bottom cause that is how the stock unit is done:



/Johan
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:41 PM   #8
Boatman
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Interesting that if that's how it's supposed to be it doesn't say so in the instructions and the pic in the instructions shows it with the nuts down. Also surprised Scotts didn't tell me to assemble it the other way if it works without tweaking the lock. I only had to nudge it about 1/64" to make it clear.

12. Assemble the new triple clamp handlebar perches/sub mount and tighten the 17mm bolts on the bottom. The clearance
of these bolts to the steering lock rack is very close when assembled, so they must be tight.



http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/128.pdf
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:42 PM   #9
Oz Nutter
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If nuts are on bottom and they come loose/of bolt is till in place.
If nuts on top, bolt could,potentially drop down/lock steering.
Just my 2c worth from years around mechanical devices...
Tell me if i'm wrong..

I just bought this:
Made in South Africa

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brisb...mp-/1038723053
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:54 PM   #10
srad600
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I recently installed the BRP triples with the Scotts mount, and it came pre-assembled with the nuts on top.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:57 AM   #11
ABuck99
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Just ordered the Scotts top clamp in and out of the box the nylock nuts are on top, heads on bottom.
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:13 AM   #12
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I skimmed the install instructions from Scotts on Friday night - but I did not READ them.

Upon a more detailed reading/comprhending exercise yesterday afternoon step #15 seems to address exactly what we are talking about here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts Install PDF
15. Now examine the underside of the triple clamp and be sure the nuts that hold your perches tight are not making contact
with your steering lock bracket. Occasionally the factory welds this bracket higher on some models, which means if it
hits, you may have to tap the bracket slightly downward to get the nuts on the bottom to clear it. The key lock has
some clearance to allow for some adjustment to this steering lock bracket. This is a rare occurrence, but your options
are to bend the bracket downward slightly or grind either the bracket or some of the nut until you have clearance. If
you grind be sure you don’t ruin the locking portion of the nut. If you have one of these rare occurrences and you’re
not sure, give us a call and we’ll try to help. A small tap here or a little filing there usually cures the problem.
http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/106.pdf

There is no possible way on the model that I have with the current hardware to install the "bolts" in the reverse. The heads of the through bolts are not hex head, they are interference heads with the hollow space of interior of the bar mounts. (If that makes sense)
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:17 AM   #13
Boatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. REDBEARD View Post
I skimmed the install instructions from Scotts on Friday night - but I did not READ them.

Upon a more detailed reading/comprhending exercise yesterday afternoon step #15 seems to address exactly what we are talking about here



http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/106.pdf

There is no possible way on the model that I have with the current hardware to install the "bolts" in the reverse. The heads of the through bolts are not hex head, they are interference heads with the hollow space of interior of the bar mounts. (If that makes sense)

Yes,,,, you have rattled my memory and that is what I came up with also. Scotts must produce a couple different "styles" for some reason.
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:27 AM   #14
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See if the part/serial number on your top clamp matches this most recent model:

Bar mounts: 10006P3
Top Clamp: 3012-18-1

Appears that the nylock has a 6 sided cut out for the nut to seat into inside the bar mount.


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