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Old 11-04-2010, 11:29 AM   #1
uranys OP
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Life with a 2000 te610

I'm going to try and document my experiences with my (new to me) 2000 te610. There is not much info floating around for these bikes and my hope is that it will help others who are considering buying one of these bikes.

I spotted this thing on craigslist. I went to take a look at it. Superficially it seemed to be in good shape. About the only things wrong were the fork seals were leaking and the rear brake fluid reservoir was just dangling there not bolted to anything. It had a dual sport kit on it and a decent looking bash plate. It was also apparently road legal at some point because it had an inspection sticker too.

The guy went to start it for me. He was repeatedly kicking it over like a maniac while complaining that it was a bitch to start. Although he was using the compression release in some manner, It didn't appear that he was following any routine. I was about to ask him to stop before he broke something when it started.

The top end was pretty noisy and it idled fast and with some missing. I took it for a ride on the street. It had decent power and it shifted good. It felt solid and fit me pretty good.

I mentioned the top end noise when I got back. He said "I think that's just that big piston moving around in there!"

I told him I'd think about it, then went home and did some research on part prices and availability. It seemed like even if it needed the top end done it was still a pretty good deal...

I called back and offered $100 less than his asking price and he hesitantly agreed. We met up, did the paperwork, loaded it in the truck and I brought her home.

Here are some pics:







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Old 11-04-2010, 12:27 PM   #2
uranys OP
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I decided that I should go over the bike a bit and at least take a peek at the valvetrain before going for a ride. I found the shop manual online here.

Removing the tank and all the bodywork is pretty easy, you can do it all with an 8mm socket and a phillips screwdriver. So far I think it's in good shape. No missing fasteners, the air filter was clean and oiled, and nothings stripped. I'm pleasantly surprised.







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Old 11-04-2010, 04:20 PM   #3
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nice,, i was looking at a 99 not long ago with a total re-do in white/blue and extra SM tires/kit. shoulda bought it.
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Old 11-12-2010, 02:04 PM   #4
uranys OP
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After starting to work on the bike I realized the manual I linked to in my previous post was for the e-start bikes. A more appropriate manual for the kicker bikes can be found here. A warning in advance... the manual is pretty bad. Many sections are missing english translations, and those that are translated are often confusing. However something (especially free) is better than nothing.

My maintenance went pretty smoothly. the magnetic drain plug has some sludge on it and the oil was pretty dirty, but the filter was clean.





The valves were right on spec (.10mm intake and .15mm exhaust), and the cam and lifters looked good as well, so I put it back together and....

It ran like crap!

I've since played with the carb and was able to get it to idle better, but i'm concerned about the rattle coming from the left side of the engine.

Anyone familiar with these bikes care to comment on if this sounds normal (I'm almost certian it's not):

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Old 11-12-2010, 05:04 PM   #5
WoodsChick
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The 610 motors tend to be pretty noisy even when new.

Did you check your cam chain tensioner?




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Old 11-12-2010, 09:26 PM   #6
uranys OP
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Quote:
The 610 motors tend to be pretty noisy even when new.
So your saying you don't hear anything abnormal? I'd like to get a few rides in before winter, but only if it's not at risk of blowing up.

Quote:
Did you check your cam chain tensioner?
Yes I did, it was at 6 clicks out.

Another question... On my other kickstart bike (1998 xr600r) I can't really kick it through without using the compression release. On this bike I can. Not easily, but not too hard either. Is that normal, or does it mean that it's got low compression?
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:57 PM   #7
Huskyfatman
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Sounds normal to me. I've owned four of them, they all clattered like that, and have been super reliable. Change the oil often and check the valves as required.

The stock exhaust is real restrictive, a Pro-Circuit (FBF), Big Gun or Uptite exhaust will really wake it up but the PC exhaust might interfere with the skid plate.

Once you learn the starting drill, it's easy. They are great bikes, even buy todays standards. I love mine. you might want to check out Cafe Husky http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=75 .



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Old 11-14-2010, 07:02 AM   #8
uranys OP
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Quote:
Sounds normal to me. I've owned four of them, they all clattered like that, and have been super reliable. Change the oil often and check the valves as required.
Ok, great. The manual mentions checking the oil reed valve every fifth oil change and the clutch needs to be pulled to do it.
Does it really need to be checked/changed that often?

Quote:
The stock exhaust is real restrictive
Yeah, took it for a spin yesterday... she's got plenty of get up, but not a lot of boogie. I was surprised at how quiet it was.

Quote:
Once you learn the starting drill
I've been trying the same drill I use for the xr: kick to tdc, pull in compression release, kick past just a bit, then let her rip. This gets my xr going in a kick or two.
The Husky takes a lot more.

Still wondering if it's down on compression because I can kick it through pretty easily without the compression release (i'm not a big dude, I weigh about 170)

Sweet bike btw and thanks for the link, lots of useful info over there.

I saw your post over there about stator output....

Mine cam with a regulator/rectifier and had been rewired to DC. The headlight was really dim, but it didn't have a battery so I figured that was the problem. I added a 30k 25v capacitor but it still no good. From the measurements I took it's only putting out about 30-35 watts.

Besides rewinding, are there other options? What stators from other bikes or models will swap in?
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:42 AM   #9
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Maybe I'm an idiot, but I only checked the oil reed on my '95 the two times when I replaced the clutch and I put a gazillion miles on the original engine. I checked the reed when I had to replace a broken clutch drum (from a crash) on my 2000 and it looked fine so I just don't worry about it. The '99s and up have a small oil pump as well.

They are pretty easy to kick over, much easier than my 650 Berg and a little harder than my ATK which only has 9:1 CR. You might want to make sure your compression release is adjusted properly.

My '95 was a much easier stater than the '00 before I put in the big bore engine. Here's how I start them and my ATK if the battery is dead:
Cold- Just past TDC, choke on NO THROTTLE, kick untill it starts or tries to start and sputters out. Flip the chocke up (off) and kick with NO THROTTLE untill she fires.
Hot-NO THROTTLE, kick it, the ACR works well when the engine is warm.

They supposedly upped the stator output in 2000. Mine is still AC and has no problem running the 70w headlight I have on it plus an LED tail and flag light, I'm sure rectifing it to DC drops the output considerably. When I put the DS kit on my '95 back when it was new I had the stator rewound, but it didn't help much. I also tried a capacitor in stead of the little battery pack and it didn't work either. It just needs more juice. LED tail and trun lights help. Maybe an "e" model stator would work?

Halls has a good link to the manual. https://www.halls-cycles.com/Catalog...00_410-610.pdf
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:01 PM   #10
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Just picked up a '98 myself, so I'm interested to see how you fare. Mine looked a dog, which I think... motivated the seller, but was actually pretty good under all the ugly. Starts cold first or second kick, ticks over nicely, and goes like hell.

I wish I could tell you something about how to start it. First time I tried, kicked my face blue for a half hour, tried every starting ritual I'd ever heard of, swore a lot, eventually gave up for the night. Came back the next morning, lit first kick. On the choke, but no kicking through, no fresh charge, nothing. Been that way ever since. Do not even look at the throttle 'til it's running. It's not necessarily a difficult engine to light off, though.

It's definitely not a quiet engine, either.

A kick-only 2000 engine should have an automatic compression release in addition to the manual release, so your compression may be fine. The USD forks don't blow seals constantly like the giant RSUs (like the '98 has) are reputed to.

Figuring out exactly what you've got is probably time well spent. There seems to have been a good bit of mixing-and-matching going on with engines, electrics, and bodywork at least through '99, so maybe in 2000 as well. Parts availability wasn't the greatest either, so who knows what's been put on the bike if anything's been replaced.

No leads on parts, manuals, etc., aside from what's already been mentioned and the usual suspects. I'd be fascinated to find some, though. I'm also looking forward to any more ideas about the electrics, because light output is currently less than idea.
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:38 PM   #11
uranys OP
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Since it was rainy and miserable I spent some time trying to work out the electrics... How the hell do you get the flywheel nut off? I tried a rattle gun @150 psi and it didn't budge!

Instead I spent some time on the exhaust. I took it apart (one of the PO had already modded it somewhat). I'm going to try and open it up a bit, I'll post up some pics when I get a chance.

Thanks for the starting tips, It helped a lot. I was able to get it to fire pretty quickly, although I still can't do it seated on the bike, I have to get off and kick it with my right leg
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burghstrom
Since it was rainy and miserable I spent some time trying to work out the electrics... How the hell do you get the flywheel nut off? I tried a rattle gun @150 psi and it didn't budge!
Is it left hand thread? Haven't looked at mine yet, but that's a not-uncommon "feature" on some engine designs.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:13 AM   #13
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hey mate,

i have a husky te aswell, an 2000 te 410. its the same as your bike, except the cc.
will follow this thread for sure.

cheers
josef

edit: look at "my backyard" down in my signature for pics and a short vid!
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:30 AM   #14
uranys OP
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Quote:
Is it left hand thread? Haven't looked at mine yet, but that's a not-uncommon "feature" on some engine designs.
Yep, sure is and if I would have RTFM I would have known. Anyway I was able to gun it off.

Now I need a puller, I measured the ID of the flywheel hole and it was 26mm so it looks like this one will work. Can anyone verify that for me?
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:56 AM   #15
dietridg
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Do the early models have the same oil capacity as the new ones, what are the (factory recommended) oil change intervals on these? have seen a few locally for good prices its just hard to find good info on them.
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