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Old 10-31-2012, 07:31 PM   #16
Roadracer_Al
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I would not hesitate to have the entire flange machined off, a new flange machined from new material (donut shaped) and welded onto the original hub.

Alternately, you could cut off the flange, **thread** the hub and new flange, then red loctite it and pin it in position with no welding required.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:31 PM   #17
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Thanks for this info. I have been considering trying to get a CX500 wheel and seeing if I can swap the drive flange from the 650 wheel over it. That would be my cheapest solution, so I think I'm going to give it a shot.
I need to double check at work tomorrow, but if I remember correctly, the 500 and 650 use the same flange part number.
If that is in fact the case then Comstars are in your future.

Send me a pm as a reminder so I don't forget to look it up.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:48 PM   #18
Donkey Hotey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
I would not hesitate to have the entire flange machined off, a new flange machined from new material (donut shaped) and welded onto the original hub.

Alternately, you could cut off the flange, **thread** the hub and new flange, then red loctite it and pin it in position with no welding required.
At that point, it would be far faster, cheaper and safer to start with a $50 billet of aluminum and just make the whole hub.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:23 AM   #19
Roadracer_Al
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If it's a rear, shaft drive hub, the thing is going to be 8", maybe 10" in diameter.... i.e. not a nice svelte front hub. At www.speedymetals.com, a 10" diameter, 7" long hunk of aluminum costs $326 plus shipping. And most of it is going into recycling.

And, there are the drive splines to consider... that's time on a wire EDM, or possibly a custom broach, or if you can find someone who still has one with a really big work envelope, a shaper. Two are expensive and one is uncommon.

My original suggestion might sound like a lot of work, but it's actually massively easier to drill the holes in the new flanges while they are flat on the table than trying to drill spoke holes in a one-piece hub.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:26 AM   #20
Donkey Hotey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
If it's a rear, shaft drive hub, the thing is going to be 8", maybe 10" in diameter.... i.e. not a nice svelte front hub. At www.speedymetals.com, a 10" diameter, 7" long hunk of aluminum costs $326 plus shipping. And most of it is going into recycling.

And, there are the drive splines to consider... that's time on a wire EDM, or possibly a custom broach, or if you can find someone who still has one with a really big work envelope, a shaper. Two are expensive and one is uncommon.

My original suggestion might sound like a lot of work, but it's actually massively easier to drill the holes in the new flanges while they are flat on the table than trying to drill spoke holes in a one-piece hub.
It's a cush-drive hub. He's not making drive splines, it's just 5 or 6 holes for the drive pins to engage some rubber donuts.

As for billet cost, yeah, if you go straight to the metal shop and ask for a cut bar, it runs that much but, he's not in production and only needs a single remnant. Bar-end remnants that big are plentiful and $2/pound and under (I've got some similar sized blocks laying around here right now). As you said, most of it will end up in chips anyway. Metal places don't have many people who have equipment to chew up that volume of chips, who will waste their time looking for a remnant that big; they have to sell 'em cheap.

The flanges you suggest would still have to come from some hella-big pieces of material. None of my spoke wheels have anything close to flat flanges with straight pulls to the rim. In fact, every spoke hole is compound-angle drilled. No matter whether it was a custom hub or custom flanges, the spoke drilling job would still be a setup nightmare (on a Bridgeport) or become 5-axis parts.

After that nightmare ended, somebody would still have to machine the cast hub with no guarantees that it isn't going to be a porous mess, not suitable for welding. He wouldn't be getting away from expensive or time-consuming machining and--in fact--it would be multiple parts that would have to all carefully fit together (more time consuming to manufacture).

He's not going to do any of this because the hub would cost more than the whole motorcycle is worth but, I couldn't figure out where you came up with multiple pieces somehow being easier or less expensive.

Yours IS a novel approach and could get the job done but, in the end, it won't be cheaper or easier.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:08 PM   #21
Aussie Bruce
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Um there is no cush rubbers

Hi Guys

Yes there is away but its a lot of parts sourcing

First time poster i know but as a former owner of both bikes CX500 and CX650 i think i can add some basic info

1 there is no cush drive in the back end of these bikes its done in the transmission drive line with a cam and spring arrangement very robust set up and un-burstable.

2 There is a different drive collar that bolts to the rear between 500 and 650 but rather than models its actually years 1978 to 1982 Collar on wheel has an internal spline - 1983 to 1985 there is an external spline.

3 Here it gets complicated the 650 turbo has com star Disc brake rear wheel and the custom has a drum but if the opening poster can find a back end from a turbo he will actually gain disc brake capacity but from memory will need the swing arm itself unless he is capable of fabbing and welding the disc brake mounting to the swing arm.

4 then do the flat disc approach i actually have the cad models still i think from my set up and yes the discs are not finished after cutting out they need the the faces chamfered for the short spokes.

5 OR you get a rear wire wheel of a late model dirt bike make an adaptor to fit the drive hub and space it accordingly Spacer to rear wheel etc but you would still need to go disc brake

Its easier to go this way but you do need to measure accurate and machine accordingly remember there is no slots on the swing arm and it must pull through and clamp the wheel to the drive hub thats it.

But at the end of the day there is no right way or wrong way to go its what you can fiqure out hey mate

Good luck with it

Brucey
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:57 PM   #22
Donkey Hotey
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1 there is no cush drive in the back end of these bikes its done in the transmission drive line with a cam and spring arrangement very robust set up and un-burstable.
OK, fine--there's no cush drive. I'm going by Ebay pictures of the drive flange. It's the same thing...in fact, even easier now that I've seen a picture of the actual wheel: it's a cush-drive flange that's just bolted to the wheel:



Mating to a custom hub just can't get any easier than that. The huge diameter of the flange area on the wheel is due to the drum on the other side, not anything else in there is that big. IE: a turned hub would not need to be much bigger than the drive flange--if that large.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160896242174...174%26_rdc%3D1
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