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Old 12-29-2012, 12:41 AM   #526
crashmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
After passing quite a bit of stalled traffic coming out of the city, I began to reflect that the double yellow line running down the middle of most roads does not mean "don't pass" but is actually a tiny passing lane for motos.
And that's how I saw it for over 2 years and 50,000 miles, because that's how the locals do it, and it worked well for me. Its an optional "do not pass" line for motos.

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Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post

The cops immediately jumped out into the road and motioned me to pull over. As soon as I had my helmet off, one of the cops came up and started asking for my papers and telling me that I had just been caught violating the speed limit.

Bummer. Never had a cop actually give me a ticket in Colombia in many thousands of miles and many months of riding there, and I was riding just like Al and Frederico, and you know what that means. The cops there must be turning into gringo cops, wtf? IT makes me sad.

I figured I would just ride like the locals and all would be good, and it was. Maybe Silviu (SSinVzla) could give us a little insight on this? Hola Silviu, donde estas mi hermano?

FWIW, and you should take this with a grain of sand........On my way back north, I got a ticket in Panama for doing 196 Kph in an 80 Kph zone. He wrote me a ticket, legit, totally. I was so shocked that I almost fainted. I asked him where I should pay. He said if you are leaving Panama within a few days, dont worry about it. Well, needless to say, I didn't pay. I just crossed into Costa Rica, sin problema. Nice cop, all business, very professional. I have no complaints, because I was breaking the law and I was prepared to pay the price, like I always am.

In Brasil, un-beknownst to me, there were speed cameras everywhere. I didnt see them, so when I saw the sign for "speed camera" in Portuguese, I had no clue, so I kept riding like my normal hooligan self, but I was wondering why the local riders and drivers were going so slow in sections and honking and waving at me because I was passing them at probably 3 times the posted limit, like they were going in reverse. Thousands of miles later when I finally figured it out, I had probably, I dont know, 30,000 or 40,000 DOLLARS, maybe quite a bit more, of speeding tickets attached to my bike. The Brazilian guys I told this story to just laughed their asses off and told me to let them know how it all worked out when I crossed into French Guiana at Oiapoque. My good friend Fernando in Ilhabela was a little more jaded, and bet me a dollar that no one would be the wiser. He was right. I owe him a dollar, and I have to go back to Ilhablela to pay it, which I am really looking forward to doing.

When I crossed the border at Oiapoque, Brasil, into French Guiana, no one said shit at the Brazilian Aduana when I checked out.

So I guess I got that going for me, which is nice.

IMHO, you should just not worry about it, but I could be wrong, since I am wrong more often than I am right.

¡Buen viaje, cabron! Youre doing a kick ass ride report! Carry on!
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crashmaster screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 01:40 AM
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:08 AM   #527
trespalacios
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Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Careful, Boys. Don't make a decision that you would later regret.

You said that they saw your passport, right? What do you do several years from now when you visit Colombia again, and they deny you entry at the airport for unpaid fines? Or, sock you with a 10X fine? (....with your wife and children watching....)

Clean conscience, happy days.

PD
Hey Bryce, unless you're not riding back to the States you'll have to go through Colombia again, whether you come in from Ecuador or Venezuela. You can take your chances but it might come back to bite you later.

On a side note I went on a motorcycle camping trip yesterday. Light sleet and snow but no fear as i had some aguardiente in a flask. And the big meal you ate is called "bandeja paisa"

Maybe Mike can introduce you to a calenia that can teach you to dance salsa... actually if you want to make it out of Colombia don't even bother.

Keep having fun but do stay safe enough to keep posting your RR.

Feliz anio!!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:51 PM   #528
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Cali

Day 75
Santa Rosa, Colombia to Cali, Colombia
Day's Ride: 149 Miles





After a refreshing night's sleep, I awoke and walked over to the nearby restaurant and had breakfast: juevos revueltos, un poco de pan, una arepa, y cafe negro.





Got on the road around 8:30 PM and started riding. I'll admit I was only using one eye to watch the road; the other was scanning for the fuzz. Luckily today was all double and even triple lane highway, solid pavement, no potholes, and only a minimal amount of untethered livestock on the shoulders.





The road was so amazing, so smooth, and so damn boring that I started falling asleep. Eventually I pulled over for a pitstop.





After re-energizing with copious amounts of sugar and caffeine I was good to go. Everytime I've passed soldiers on the road down here, they always give me a thumbs up. I'm not quite sure what that means; at first I thought they really liked my bike, but then I saw them do it cars as well, so who knows?


As I was spacing along down the highway, I passed some soldiers who gave me the old thumbs up, so I pulled over to see what the deal was. We ended up chatting a little bit and I convinced them to take some pictures with me.








....and I totally forgot to ask them what the deal was with the thumbs up. Maybe tomorrow.


The road kept on being amazing and incredibly boring. Before I realized it I was in Cali. I still haven't loaded any maps on my GPS, so I spent a few minutes playing hot and cold on the streets with the little waypoint marker for the Hostel. Eventually I found it.....





Casa Blanca Hostel. It's run by Mike, the guy that owns Motolombia. Motolombia rents bikes (KLR's, BMW's, etc.) and operates tours. Mike has been running the business since he stopped in Colombia five years ago at the end of a South America ride. He's married a Colombiana and is living the dream. He told me that they've had over 2,000 overlanders stop by the Hostel in the past five years. They've got a wall of fame above the staircase with pictures of some of the people that have stopped by.









I also met Adam, an Australian who bought a bike down south and was riding North until he got into a little accident in Colombia. He doesn't really remember what happened and he's not quite sure where his bike is, but he's staying at Casa Blanca recuperating until he can get things figured out. He has two broken arms and some crushed digits; just had surgery two days ago and seems to be in good spirirts...





After checking in at the Hostel I walked over to the parking lot where I had stashed my bike and convinced them to let me change my oil in the gravel.





I found some JASO rated Mobil 10W-40 Synthetic this time...





The old XRL is still drinking a little oil everyday. I added about 800ml in the last 2,000 mile stretch. I've started telling people that when I pull over at the gas station it's to fill up the oil and check the gas.


Tomorrow I'm going to blast for the border. I've been told that there is a big New Year's gathering of advriders at an old monastery turned hotel just across the border in Ecuador.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:52 PM   #529
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Quote:
The old XRL is still drinking a little oil everyday. I added about 800ml in the last 2,000 mile stretch. I've started telling people that when I pull over at the gas station it's to fill up the oil and check the gas.
FWIW, I don't think you have a problem with oil consumption. Mine used about that much when I was commuting 600 miles a week on it. (the bike at that time only had 2000 miles on it) I think air cooled engines are a little more prone to this anyway. When you get home, maybe have a look at the valve seals, otherwise, feed it a little oil now and then, and it will never die.

Keep it up!
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:05 PM   #530
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Originally Posted by trespalacios View Post
Hey Bryce, unless you're not riding back to the States you'll have to go through Colombia again, whether you come in from Ecuador or Venezuela. You can take your chances but it might come back to bite you later.

On a side note I went on a motorcycle camping trip yesterday. Light sleet and snow but no fear as i had some aguardiente in a flask. And the big meal you ate is called "bandeja paisa"

Feliz anio!!!
egh, I think I'm just going to skip out of here. I talked to mike about it from Motolombia today, he told me that the cops were probably looking for a bribe and when I didn't broach the subject and played stupid, they just gave me the paperwork. He said that it probably won't ever make it into the system and if it did it wouldn't be in till after the holidays anyways.

I don't really want to wait around here till after the first, so I'll just keep going. If they ask for money at the border, I'll pay up. I'll be flying back from Argentina or possibly Brazil, so I won't have to worry about crossing Colombia again on this trip. And if I ever come back I'll just pay the fine or get a new passport with a new number.

The aguardiente was an interesting drink. Not my first choice in alchol, but not bad either. Salud!
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:08 PM   #531
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Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
In Brasil, un-beknownst to me, there were speed cameras everywhere. I didnt see them, so when I saw the sign for "speed camera" in Portuguese, I had no clue, so I kept riding like my normal hooligan self, but I was wondering why the local riders and drivers were going so slow in sections and honking and waving at me because I was passing them at probably 3 times the posted limit, like they were going in reverse. Thousands of miles later when I finally figured it out, I had probably, I dont know, 30,000 or 40,000 DOLLARS, maybe quite a bit more, of speeding tickets attached to my bike. The Brazilian guys I told this story to just laughed their asses off and told me to let them know how it all worked out when I crossed into French Guiana at Oiapoque. My good friend Fernando in Ilhabela was a little more jaded, and bet me a dollar that no one would be the wiser. He was right. I owe him a dollar, and I have to go back to Ilhablela to pay it, which I am really looking forward to doing.

When I crossed the border at Oiapoque, Brasil, into French Guiana, no one said shit at the Brazilian Aduana when I checked out.
Wow. That' incredible. $40,000?!? Now that's a hell of a story. I'm surprised they didn't have old fashioned "wanted dead or alive" posters up for your KTM.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:18 PM   #532
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Awesome story!

You and me both! Don't mess with a Marine's family!
If you liked that, you'll love this:



You really just shouldn't mess with Marines in general....
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:30 PM   #533
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If you liked that, you'll love this:
You really just shouldn't mess with Marines in general....
good god,
imagine if he'd tripped down a couple of stairs.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:25 PM   #534
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Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post







Sweet Galil!!!
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:50 AM   #535
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Sweet Galil!!!
I was thinking the same thing.

I figured they'd be carrying the ubiquitous AK or a FN...
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:13 AM   #536
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good lord that guy picked the wrong group to mess with.

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Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
If you liked that, you'll love this:



You really just shouldn't mess with Marines in general....
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:49 PM   #537
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Great Views, Crappy Roads to Pasto

Day 76 (December 30, 2012)
Cali, Colombia to Pasto, Colombia
Day's Ride: 253 Miles



Before leaving Casa Blanca this morning I had to get a shot for the wall of fame:



And then it was off to breakfast where I had an interesting character serenade me and try and sell me sun glasses.



Breakfast was quite good; beans and rice with an egg on top and a cup of coffee. Simple, filling, and tasty. Can't ask for more.



The road out of Cali was nice, smooth two lane highway that passed through countless sugarcane fields.



The army was out in force today; I must have passed at least 10 checkpoints, including this one:



They're always so cheerful.....

There was lots of pretty scenery today. I had to stop and go off road to get a picture of the bike in all of these trees.



Around 11:00 AM I rolled into Popayan. It was incredibly beautiful and I wished that I would have stayed here instead of Cali. The central part of town is all white washed well preserved colonial buildings. The town was founded in 1537 and became the residence of many wealthy Spaniards who moved up from the sugarcane fields near Cali.



I rode to the central plaza and then found a restaurant for lunch.





Popayan looked incredible and the climate was far more mild than Cali. If I were doing this over again, I would have skipped Cali and come straight here. Or maybe I would have stopped and picked up a Motolombia sticker and then headed straight here...

Just outside of Popayan I started coming across groups of people standing along side the road asking for money; each group of people had a large human efigies close at hand. Daniel and Juan David from Medellin had told me that people collect money then use it to buy fireworks and gunpowder which they stuff into these effigies. Then they blow them up. Now that sounds like my kind of charity! I had some coins I needed to get ride of, so I pulled over.





This family was super stoked that I stopped by; the dad was having his wife and kids pose with me while he snapped pictures. It took me a minute, but I was finally able to convince them to stand near their dummy so that I could get a shot of them too. And even then he was snapping pictures of me. I'm starting to get too popular down here.

Just after I made my donation to the explosives fund, the road started turning to crap and the scenery started to improve drastically.





Seeing all of this beautiful terrain really took it out of me and I was forced to stop for a redbull and some bags of water.



The bagged water is significantly cheaper than bottled and is a great way to fill up your camelbak.

After the pitstop I got back on the road and was blown away by how amazing the scenery was getting. I think there was some sort of inverse relationship occurring between road quality and scenery. As the view started getting more pretty, the road started getting really ugly.

I came around a corner and saw a cloud bank pouring over a ridge line right in front of me. It was breathtaking.



I pulled a little further off the road and actually got off my bike to take a picture (gasp!) of these clouds coming down the mountain.



It was almost like they were snowcapped. I wish I was a better photographer. These pictures don't do it justice.



The road started climbing and soon I was overlooking some terrific valleys:





Man, what great riding! The road was absolute garbage, but the views totally redeemed it!

I arrived in Pasto and got a room at the Koala Inn. 28,000 Pesos for a private room with bathroom. Wifi, hot water, and free pancake breakfast. Great deal. Unfortunately, the only secure parking is a block away.



After checking in and dropping off my bags, I headed out into town to fill up my gas tank so that I wouldn't have to do it in the morning. Much to my chagrin, I found that most of the gas stations in town were out of gas and the few that were open had lines of cars stretching for blocks waiting to fill up.

Looking at the picture below, the line of cars on the left are all waiting to fill up at the gas station up the street. The gas station is just below the bright neon sign above the red bus in the middle of the road.



I was a little frustrated, but I settled down to wait my turn. Then I saw a bunch of bikes zip up to the front of the line so I went up to see what was going on.

Apparently motorcycles have cutting privileges in gas shortages too! It pays to ride in Colombia!



Tomorrow I'm heading for Ecuador. The border is only 60 miles away and I'm interested to see if they bring up my traffic ticket or not. I'm trying to make it to the town of Cayambe and an old Monastery turned hotel on the equator for a New Years Eve party with a bunch of advriders.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:56 PM   #538
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That was some amazing scenery today. Thanks for bringing it to us.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #539
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Let's Trade Places

I would be glad to trade places with you and your problems...................

How'bout you go into the office for me tomorrow, and I will gladly stand in line to get fuel in a drop dead gorgeous part of the world on my XR650L? JK

Great posts and RR. Muchas Gracias!!!
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:59 PM   #540
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Originally Posted by Creeker747 View Post
I would be glad to trade places with you and your problems...................

How'bout you go into the office for me tomorrow, and I will gladly stand in line to get fuel in a drop dead gorgeous part of the world on my XR650L? JK

Great posts and RR. Muchas Gracias!!!
I guess that depends on what you do and how much money you make doing it........
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