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Old 02-09-2013, 06:20 AM   #1051
Ulyses OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewby View Post
Thanks for the info. But quick question. What were the two turn offs actually for?
The turn offs were for gas in San Cristobal, the cut-off that gets you to the start of the Lagunas route, and the Bolivian Aduana.

Without a GPS, I can't really tell you how to get there as the maps that I purchased in Unuyi were all fairly inacurate and didn't really depict the right route. You can talk to tour operators in Unuyi, but once again, just going off of what they say will be pretty hard.

I think your best bet is to download google earth and then overlay my GPX files and some of the waypoints that I've posted above and try and figure it out from there. I would do this before you get to Unuyi as most of the internet there sucks.

You can buy maps of the area from the Librerias in Unuyi, but like I said before, they aren't all that accurate.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:36 PM   #1052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post


WoW


and ... is about how it feels viewing this from my publicle.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:33 PM   #1053
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Finally got caught up with this RR! Thank you for taking us along!

I am a bit surprised a Marine could get that far w/out Naval support!

Ride Safe!
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:32 PM   #1054
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I am a bit surprised a Marine could get that far w/out Naval support!
!
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh!
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #1055
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He did have naval support... didn't you see that rusty old boat he rode into Columbia on? And the rickety canoe looking things that they used to get the bikes out to it?
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Quote:
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:53 PM   #1056
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He did have naval support... didn't you see that rusty old boat he rode into Columbia on? And the rickety canoe looking things that they used to get the bikes out to it?

True True

Donated a little..

Prodigy
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09Prodigy screwed with this post 02-10-2013 at 07:58 PM
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #1057
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Update

I'm currently crammed in a gas station trying to get some fast food with about 100 Chileanos who are returning from Holiday. I've been camping the last two nights but hopefully I'll be able to get a room some where tonight. I've made lots of new friends in the last few days and also found that my computer only speaks Japane.
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:30 PM   #1058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09Prodigy View Post
Finally got caught up with this RR! Thank you for taking us along!

I am a bit surprised a Marine could get that far w/out Naval support!

Ride Safe!
Haha! That was a hard burn....respect.

Brown Falcon is right, I did have to rely on one salty slovakian squid to get me across the caribean, as well as a few ferries here and there.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #1059
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New Faces, New Places

Day 118 (February 9, 2013)
Santiago, Chile to Lake Vichuquen, Chile
Day's Ride: 176 Miles



Waking up rather late after the previous night's epic BBQ, I spent the remainder of the morning at the Hostel sending emails and doing computer stuff. It's amazing how fast correspondence and electronic tasks begin to pile up after you've been on the road for so long.

Around noon I was finally packed up and ready to leave. Just as I was starting my bike, a man came running down the street, waving his arms furiously, and yelling at me to wait. Turns out it was Yuri, aka inmate Yuraco, who had tracked me down via the ride report and my SPOT beacon, and wanted to invite me over to his house for lunch! Once again, I was blown away by the hospitality of a random stranger; I had to accept his invitation!

Yuri lead me back to his house with his car, where we went upstairs and talked and ate a wonderful lunch that had been prepared by his wife. He gave me tons of advice on things to see in Chile and even sat with me and showed me on my map where I should go. He and his wife were so gracious to me; it was a huge blessing to have a nice home cooked meal and converse with some amazing Chileanos!



After lunch, Yuri volunteered to get on his bike and ride with me so that I could get out of Santiago via the short route. I'm always down to ride with another person, especially one as awesome as Yurri, and I agreed to his offer whole heartedly. Yurri has an R1200 GSA and it was all I could do to keep up with him on the Autopista out of Santiago!



At the first toll booth Yuri had to turn around and head back to his family. However, before he left, I made sure he signed my tank:



Yuri, if you are reading this, thanks a ton! You're the man!

Following Yuri's departure, I cruised south on the Panamerican towards a turn off in the town of San Fernando that Yuri had told me would lead to a nice long stretch of dirt road terminating in a beautiful lake. As I was passing a Copec gas station, I noticed what appeared to be a large, fully laden, DR650 in the parking lot. I did a quick u-turn and went back to investigate. That's how I met Max:



I pulled up and introduced myself and we started talking. It turned out that Max was from Australia and he had had has bike shipped over to Santiago so that he could spend eight months riding around South America. He had just left Santiago that day; he was on the very first day of his trip!

We talked a bit more and eventually decided to ride together to the lake that Yuri had told me about. Plugging down the Panamerican, we eventually reached the turnoff and headed towards the coast. We stopped briefly in the town of Santa Cruz and bought supplies in preparation for camping that evening. A few miles later, we finally reached the end of the pavement.



Yuri's recommendation turned out to be superb. The road was a phenomenal mix of well graded dirt and gravel.



Max and I blasted along in the dirt for nearly 20 miles. I was a little jealous of his brand new tires; my nearly bald Scorpions just didn't have the traction to allow me to fly through a dirt turn anymore.





Just before sunset we reached the lake. We went to a developed campground first just to check out how much it would cost. Unfortunately, they were filled to capacity. Just before leaving, I asked how much they would normally charge for a campsite. They wanted 30,000 pesos! That's over $60! And this wasn't some full hook-up RV park either, it was just a little dirt campground next to a lake. Crazy!

Max and I left the campground and rode back up into the hills aways, intent on doing a little stealth camping. Before long we found a nice, hidden spot on top of a hill on the edge of a pine plantation (-34.80185, -72.03659).



We cooked up a big dinner of pasta and sauce and then racked out.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:52 PM   #1060
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Very nice! Seems like you are meeting tons of great people, eating lots of great food, and seeing LOTS of wonderful sights down there!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:19 PM   #1061
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Very nice! Seems like you are meeting tons of great people, eating lots of great food, and seeing LOTS of wonderful sights down there!
I am beginning to wonder about Brother Ulyses. He just keeps having the best luck with people. This is exactly the opposite of our hero Odysseus, who wondered for 10 long years, unable to return home because of the furious Poseidon. (Of course, all of those years spent captive in that beauty's cave must not have been so bad, I always thought. Odysseus always said that he constantly pined for his bride Penelope, but I could never be sure.)

So what gives, Ulyses? I am guessing that the knarly beard sways even the most cold hearted. Or, perhaps the old ways of the world are still followed in Latin America, where a supplicant is never refused, even an enemy (they say that the Afghans still practice this--any truth to that?).
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:34 PM   #1062
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Back in the PNF

Day 119 (February 10, 2013)
Lake Vichuquen, Chile to Lota, Chile
Day's Ride: 246 Miles



Our stealth campsite ended up being perfect. Quiet, secluded, and with a great view, what more can you ask for?



We took our time getting ready and I got out the good stuff for breakfast:



Back on the road I stopped to take a picture, put my foot down in a hole, and fell over. Luckily the bike was resting on a ledge and I was able to take a picture of Max as he rode by before crawling out from underneath.



Due to the odd angle that the bike was resting at, I was having a hell of a time getting it upright again. A few minutes later, a few Chileanos in a truck stopped and gave me a hand getting the bike back upright. Once we got back to pavement, I found a gas station and stopped to change my oil and my front brake pads.



After about an hour of maintenance time, we hit the road again.









As we got further south, the terrain started to remind me more and more of the pacific northwest. I think this area is a large paper and wood chip producing region in Chile. Max, who is a forester back in Australia, kept commenting on all of the sawmills and pulp factories that we were seeing.





There was lots of construction on the small coastal roads that we were traversing and I kept seeing this sign which kindly reminded me that my inconvenience was a small price to pay for the benefit of the route:



We eventually made it to Concepción where we hunted unsuccessfully for a hostal that was listed in the Lonely Planet South America Guide. Frustrated, we eventually gave up and drove south to the small coastal town of Lota and a municipal campground (-37.11664, -73.15027) that was listed on our GPS. It ended up only costing 500 Pesos (about $1.00) per person to camp there, so we stayed and took advantage of the bathrooms.

There weren't any tiendas nearby, so instead of cooking, we ate at one of the tourist restaurants on the nearby beach, thereby negating the money we had saved by camping. Still, we were treated to an incredible sunset.



After returning to our campsite, several of the Chilean families camping there stopped by to say hi and chat. One of them even brought us some home made bread. The Mayor's sister even dropped by to give us an official welcome to the small municipality of Lota. Man, all of the Chileans I have met so far have been amazing!
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:41 PM   #1063
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Very nice! Seems like you are meeting tons of great people, eating lots of great food, and seeing LOTS of wonderful sights down there!

Man, that poor devil's 1st Sgt is going to flip when he sees this picture on facebook.....
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:47 PM   #1064
Ulyses OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
I am beginning to wonder about Brother Ulyses. He just keeps having the best luck with people. This is exactly the opposite of our hero Odysseus, who wondered for 10 long years, unable to return home because of the furious Poseidon. (Of course, all of those years spent captive in that beauty's cave must not have been so bad, I always thought. Odysseus always said that he constantly pined for his bride Penelope, but I could never be sure.)

So what gives, Ulyses? I am guessing that the gnarly beard sways even the most cold hearted. Or, perhaps the old ways of the world are still followed in Latin America, where a supplicant is never refused, even an enemy (they say that the Afghans still practice this--any truth to that?).
I don't know about the Afghans....so many of the older generation has been killed off in the last 30 years fighting that many of their customs, especially the "Pashtun Wali" code, have died off with them. At least thats what everyone says. Generally though, if you are willing to spend a little time talking and listening to someone, regardless of who they are, it seems that you can find some common ground, share a few laughs, and part ways feeling good about the encounter. Either that, or my beard just hypnotizes people into liking me...

As for my recent good fortune; I'm not complaining. It sure beats getting hit by cars, run over by boats, bit by dogs, and extorted by corrupt cops.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:41 PM   #1065
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In those days only officers carried rank on their shoulders.
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