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Old 01-06-2013, 09:35 PM   #151
sailah OP
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Originally Posted by ktmklx View Post
Man, that swing arm looks good on there! What is the length of the swing arm from the pivot CL to the axle CL when the axle is at mid point of the chain adjustment?

Sent you a PM
I'll measure it for you and post up. Thanks for the pm, appreciate it
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:43 PM   #152
DustyOne
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hey pete...looks great
I just love that ktm rear you are putting together

AND as long as you are cutting, would you please put me in for a set as well?

whatever you and sanjoh come up with is fine with me.
I will make it work, and it will be better than keeping it stock

thank you kindly
thomas
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:55 PM   #153
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Sweet now I can quit my job and make ninja rear sets

Sure thing I'll see what I can come up with
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:30 AM   #154
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ktmklx has a nice solution. I was planning on doing this.



Just adding a tab/extension on the back to tie in the racks (after welding an extension to the rack). I want the entire stock footpeg cast thingy off the bike. They break or bend too easily.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #155
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That looks awesome, what the hell are you asking me for

I had envisioned something similar but essentially same deal. Question is how much leverage can you put on those two bolts especially for pegs. I'd be inclined to weld mine, maybe using the bolts to fixture the plate so it's symmetrical. I also like how he did the footpeg bracket.

Give me a little time and I'll draw one out and you guys can critique it.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:26 PM   #156
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You can put an aweful lot of pressure on bolts like that.
Take a look at most aluminum framed MX bikes. They usually have a small steel or Ti bracket that has 2 small, maybe 8mm bolts that hold the peg mount saddle to the frame. the are usually only about an inch to inch and a half apart, they take alot of leverage and pressure and I have never broken one yet.

Here is what I am talking about, these are from a 1997-2001Honda CR but the Yami and others are similar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350672934617...84.m1423.l2649

If those land 100' triples and hard case jumps in SX with out breaking the bracket or the bolts...I think his brackets and mounting bolts might be fine, as long ad they are braced and gusseted properly.

How big are those bolts holding on the new plate? 6mm 8mm +++
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:16 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmklx View Post
Man, that swing arm looks good on there! What is the length of the swing arm from the pivot CL to the axle CL when the axle is at mid point of the chain adjustment?

Sent you a PM
Call it 23.5" from CL of swingarm bolt to middle of axle range CL.
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:24 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
You can put an aweful lot of pressure on bolts like that.
Take a look at most aluminum framed MX bikes. They usually have a small steel or Ti bracket that has 2 small, maybe 8mm bolts that hold the peg mount saddle to the frame. the are usually only about an inch to inch and a half apart, they take alot of leverage and pressure and I have never broken one yet.

Here is what I am talking about, these are from a 1997-2001Honda CR but the Yami and others are similar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350672934617...84.m1423.l2649

If those land 100' triples and hard case jumps in SX with out breaking the bracket or the bolts...I think his brackets and mounting bolts might be fine, as long ad they are braced and gusseted properly.

How big are those bolts holding on the new plate? 6mm 8mm +++
Totally see where you are coming from however the mounts I am probably going to make will cantilever the actual footpeg bracket much further out. The bracket you have a link to just mounts essetially the peg right there.

The pegs in my case are going to be 4-6" further forward and a few inches down as a WAG which would put an incredible amount of stress on the bolts in terms of shearing and tensile. Not sure M8 or any bolt is up to that task. If I weld the entire length of my mount and also brace it from the furthest part of the "lever" back to the frame, I've essentially eliminated that cantilever. Bolting your peg mounts with M8 bolts there are no sweat and wouldn't think to beef that up. I think it will be clear when I draw it up what I am talking about.

Always welcome the criticism though, some times I feel like I am flying along and no one says "you're an idiot dude what are you thinking" so I think I must be doing it right. At least that's what I tell myself
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:34 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
You can put an aweful lot of pressure on bolts like that.
Take a look at most aluminum framed MX bikes. They usually have a small steel or Ti bracket that has 2 small, maybe 8mm bolts that hold the peg mount saddle to the frame. the are usually only about an inch to inch and a half apart, they take alot of leverage and pressure and I have never broken one yet.

Here is what I am talking about, these are from a 1997-2001Honda CR but the Yami and others are similar.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350672934617...84.m1423.l2649

If those land 100' triples and hard case jumps in SX with out breaking the bracket or the bolts...I think his brackets and mounting bolts might be fine, as long ad they are braced and gusseted properly.

How big are those bolts holding on the new plate? 6mm 8mm +++
I just measured the CRF peg mounts I have. one 12mm and one 8mm bolt. the 12 is obviously beefy.

The ninja mounts are 8 and 8mm and I think the peg brackets fail before the bolts so they are ok for a street bike.

I like the idea of having some tabs down there to mount sanjoh's buddy pegs or to hang a trailer hitch from
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:09 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
That looks awesome, what the hell are you asking me for

I had envisioned something similar but essentially same deal. Question is how much leverage can you put on those two bolts especially for pegs. I'd be inclined to weld mine, maybe using the bolts to fixture the plate so it's symmetrical. I also like how he did the footpeg bracket.

Give me a little time and I'll draw one out and you guys can critique it.
Sometimes I have more money than time

Those pegs are already at least 6" forward and 4" lower than the stock pegs. Were you thinking forward of that location?

The lower bolt is the one just under the oil cap.

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Old 01-07-2013, 08:10 PM   #161
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The secret to mounting things with bolts is to have the bolts in tension and sheer and NOT in bending.

Imagine holding a shelf bracket on the wall with one finger and pushing down at the end of the bracket with the other hand.

Push down
here
_______
| Push against the wall here (1)
|
|
| OR here (2)

If you are pushing against the wall at (1), the bolt is in tension and sheer.

If you are pushing against the wall at (2), the bolt is in bending.

You need some leverage below the bolt to change the stress from bending to tension.

Don
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:22 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentvet View Post
I just measured the CRF peg mounts I have. one 12mm and one 8mm bolt. the 12 is obviously beefy.

The ninja mounts are 8 and 8mm and I think the peg brackets fail before the bolts so they are ok for a street bike.

I like the idea of having some tabs down there to mount sanjoh's buddy pegs or to hang a trailer hitch from
exactly!!!!......well, sorta

this this exercise has a couple purposes
here are some that i see as i havebeen reading most of these rat-ninja builds:
1. to relocate the pegs more forward, and maybe down just a bit, so a more dirt bike stance can be attained
2. to strengthen up the obviously weak street bike casting by building a custom mount
3. to allow a slightly different shifter/shifter linkage
4. to allow use of and the mounting of "real dirt type footpegs"
5. to also address the brake pedal, and to be able to use a stronger, less breakable pedal
6. make the system/parts so, if a successful build, it can be easily duplicated for others to follow
7. pls add what i left out guys

beemer

.
.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:28 AM   #163
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Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Sometimes I have more money than time

Those pegs are already at least 6" forward and 4" lower than the stock pegs. Were you thinking forward of that location?

The lower bolt is the one just under the oil cap.

haven't really looked at it yet to be honest other than glancing at it from time to time.

I'm probably going to work on modifying the seat pan to get a comfortable seating position and bar reach first and allow that to dictate where the pegs end up. To that end we might find that our mounts aren't compatible for me to send you mine as my seating position is going to be a few inches forward from all of you guys and the pegs might feel weird.

It might make more sense to just draw some up for you using ktmklx already good design and add on the tabs for pegs or whatever. The actual peg mounts we could leave blank so each user could decide where they wanted them and weld them up to the plate onsite.

Either way I'm happy to help with either cad drawing or getting these cut out from my water jet guy but I don't want to get too far off in the weeds on a side project, hope you understand that, I'm also in the not enough time dept too
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:47 AM   #164
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That's the right approach IMO.

I will say you get a lot done with the time you have! I've noticed a lot more thought going in to this build, remember reading/watching the FZ build and thinking about the movie Edward Scissorhands only you would have a cutoff saw, welder and really big sledge on the ends
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:58 AM   #165
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^^^ truth^^^
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