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Old 01-31-2013, 10:19 AM   #196
sailah OP
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Working on the rearsets. I have drawn up "The Gourd" to have a sample made. I really need something in metal so I can attach the footpeg bracket and check the position. If anyone has any comments about the shape, lemme know and I'll see about trying to make it not so phallic shaped

I can also try some speedholes or cutouts. I think it would work well to attach the peg mounts with a DOM tube underneath but right now I want to get a sample made and make changes based on that.



I'm holding the peg and mount about where I want the peg. I think. If you want to check where it would be on your bike, I screwed an M8 bolt into the lowest hole and my ankle bone was basically right on the head, and I drew in the pegs based on that.



I hate epoxy

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Old 01-31-2013, 10:39 AM   #197
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Tie them together underneath and they'll be fine, you could even do aluminum.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:05 AM   #198
sailah OP
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I'm going to weld mine to the frame
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:26 PM   #199
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While waiting for the fairing compound to dry I decided to draw up the flange I am having cut in order to remount the fuel pump in a surge tank next to the shock. It was driving me crazy when I couldn't get accurate numbers until I realized the pentagon isn't symmetrical



Anyways I finally figured it out and drew it up in CAD and getting it cut from 1/4" alum plate. I love having a guy local that does waterjet cutting.

I also dropped the tank down on the bike and I'm in for a long haul getting that tank around the new seat pan and also cutting out the fuel pump flange so it will fit down on the shock mount. It would almost be easier to cut the entire top of the tank off and start new, but I don't have any easy way to get those nice bends back in the metal.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:49 PM   #200
Roadracer_Al
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Thanks for the links on the fairing. Good price, too!

I have a nice set of PIAAs from my Brittania fairing on my 690 that would work great in that.

One thing that is always an issue on DS conversions is getting frame tubes that go under the motor to support footpegs and a skid plate. I've thought about it long and hard. One solution is a removable cradle section. I made some disconnects, but they're fussy and heavy.

Your tonsil shaped part ought to work OK if you have a tube that does under the motor and ties into the frame there. Before you weld everything up, make double-damn sure that you can get the motor out. I know this because I did a pretty cool motor swap for a guy -- a KX 500 motor into a TZ250 chassis -- and got one of the motor mounting pylons angled wrong and the dummy motor wouldn't come out. Oops.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:49 PM   #201
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Curious why you wouldn't take advantage of the bolt above the peg? The gourde looks a bit weak, especially with the moment you are creating having the peg so far away from the bolt. Kinda forces you to put a crossmember in.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:36 PM   #202
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Make the trial plate even bigger so you can try further forward, etc. I think the peg position is going to depend on how far forward you can get your seat to be and how much standing you plan to do on the pegs. If you stand up alot, you might want to copy the layout on your husky and have your pegs even further forward.

I think the left might dictate things also because at some point, your left toe runs into the stator housing.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:51 PM   #203
ktmklx
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That fairing is very cool.

Shouldn't those pegs be called "forwardsets"?
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:12 PM   #204
sailah OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Curious why you wouldn't take advantage of the bolt above the peg? The gourde looks a bit weak, especially with the moment you are creating having the peg so far away from the bolt. Kinda forces you to put a crossmember in.
Well that bolt hole is an M8 which is def not strong enough. It's also too high and my knees were into the tank. The "dong" as it shall now be referred to was just a trial part. I expect that once I have a sample made it will allow movement of the peg mount to exactly where I want it. I'm not going to know that for awhile due to tank and seat still not being done.

I think it's going to be seriously strong. 3/16" plate is what I built my shock mounts from and they are pretty beefy. Plus I'm welding the entire length of it, which is probably 6-8" of continuous welding. The only thing I'm trying to eliminate is lateral flex and that is easy either by bracing it to a cross member or running a tube underneath.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dentvet View Post
Make the trial plate even bigger so you can try further forward, etc. I think the peg position is going to depend on how far forward you can get your seat to be and how much standing you plan to do on the pegs. If you stand up alot, you might want to copy the layout on your husky and have your pegs even further forward.

I think the left might dictate things also because at some point, your left toe runs into the stator housing.
Yeah the plate is big enough for mock up purposes that's why I left some room to move. I really just wanted to make sure I got the frame curves and bolt holes correct so when I start making the real ones out of the 3/16" plate that they are right.

My waterjet guy is charging me $10 for the first one out of 1/8" plate he has on hand. The remaining sets I have made are $11/each with me supplying the material which will be close to free if not free from my buddy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmklx View Post
That fairing is very cool.

Shouldn't those pegs be called "forwardsets"?
I dig the fairing. I might modify it and pull a mold off it so if I crash I don't have to do it all over again.

Yeah I guess they are now know as "dong, the forwardset"
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:15 PM   #205
sailah OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post

One thing that is always an issue on DS conversions is getting frame tubes that go under the motor to support footpegs and a skid plate. I've thought about it long and hard. One solution is a removable cradle section. I made some disconnects, but they're fussy and heavy.
.
Good thought regarding a cradle. I also have to work in the exhaust running under there too. I am in the process of buying a header so I should be able to mock that in place.

I'm convinced with the thickness of plate I am running that these sets are going to be massively strong. If I crash hard enough to wreck those, my bike will be the last thing on my mind.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:17 PM   #206
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"Dong....where is my automobile?"
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:45 PM   #207
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Sailah you are very skillful and im follovving this thread. I think you some great ideas. f just i had the metal fabrication skills i vvould have been vvay better put in this game. Im deep into my ovvn project and vvhile it can be a bit slovv sometimes the small progress can be seriously addictive.

Keep it comming.

from Denmark

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Old 02-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #208
sailah OP
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Mikael,

Thanks I've read your thread since the beginning. Honestly my next project is something similar to yours,, thats a fantastic way to do it.

I know this bike won't have enough power. My 950 was always my favorite bike

Peter
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:07 PM   #209
DustyOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
Mikael,

Thanks I've read your thread since the beginning. Honestly my next project is something similar to yours,, thats a fantastic way to do it.

I know this bike won't have enough power. My 950 was always my favorite bike

Peter

hey pete,

THIS BIKE WILL HAVE ENOUGH POWER
...it is just that WE AMERICANS have grown use to "excessiveness" in everything we want or do


how else could you describe the need to have a "dirt bike" with nearly 90 hp?
.....and that is why we buy the ktm 950, right? because it's dirt capabilities far exceed those of the other manufacturers that make bikes this size

.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #210
sailah OP
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Nah, 90 hp is for pussies, my fz1 has 145...
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