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Old 10-08-2009, 12:43 PM   #1
the venturer OP
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Location: Thrace and Istanbul
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BMW F650GS\Dakar Brake Fluid Change Procedure Here

Bled mine last week. I tried for half an hour for the rear, but 10 mins for the front.
The gist is that you should try not to let air inside. To avoid this, bleed through the nipple as you strongly push the pedal. It is as follows in short: PRESS THE PEDAL, UNSCREW NIPPLE NUT, LET SOME OLD FLUID SQUIRTING OUT, SCREW NIPPLE NUT, LEAVE PEDAL AND SEE ITS MOVING UP. And continue doing this several times till you are happy with the pedal's response. NEVER forget to fill in the fluid to the maximum right after every two bleedings, otherwise you may let some air bubbles in. Don't worry, the membrane inside the reserve will empty some fluid after putting it back.
After all, test-ride the bike carefully please, and bleed a few more times if necessary.

-Keep in mind that fluid may harm your paintwork.
-It is DOT 4, strongly recommended and change every year.
-Rear fluid reserve takes only very little fluid and therefore more
prone to let air in when empty. Watch this while the bleeding.
-Be careful with the membrane inside the rear fluid cap. You are not
going to fill inside the membrane, only the cap itself. Membrane
prevents the air from being sucked up in while compression.
-As for the front; may squirt outta each time you squeeze the brake
lever. To prevent this; close the reserve cap but don't screw the
bolts. Easier to open it back for each refill.
-Keep caps and around very clean.
-Always use a LOCTITE or RITE-LOK TL43 NUTLOCK for the rear cap
nut and bolt.

Happy rides to you.
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:37 AM   #2
Tom48
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Thanks, I am renewing my rear pads, and will need to bleed the rear, Thanks again.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:31 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom48
Thanks, I am renewing my rear pads, and will need to bleed the rear, Thanks again.
You are welcome. Glad that I have helped you. Good rides to you as well.
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:17 PM   #4
HamAce
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Great info!

Thanks for the comprehensive description. Just wondering, as I am new to the Beemer world, is there any particular problems to worry about with the ABS whilst bleeding the brake fluid?

Any further info would be great!
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamAce View Post
Thanks for the comprehensive description. Just wondering, as I am new to the Beemer world, is there any particular problems to worry about with the ABS whilst bleeding the brake fluid?

Any further info would be great!
My ABS's gone since last summer. Whatever I have tried so far, couldnt get it worked. From What I have read, a special tool is needed to bleed some experts say. Bleeding wont damage ABS. And bleed every year for your own safety.
Lots of stuff RE the bleeding here: http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/BrakeMaintenanceFAQGS.htm
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:10 AM   #6
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Just smelly topic here. Check out last comments: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post20020244
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamAce View Post
Thanks for the comprehensive description. Just wondering, as I am new to the Beemer world, is there any particular problems to worry about with the ABS whilst bleeding the brake fluid?

Any further info would be great!
Only issue is to make sure you don't get air in the system while bleeding. Air gets in the ABS and you've opened a can of worms.

I use a Mighty Vac to vacuum the brake fluid rather than pump using the levers, I find it works well and I don't worry about the master cyl. "squirting" when you squeeze it.

If you get your hands on a bike that doesn't look like the fluid has been changed like it should I would suggest you bleed it, ride it a few days and then bleed again (esp if you have ABS).
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