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Old 08-07-2013, 11:30 AM   #76
kellymac530
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:29 PM   #77
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Sandblaster/Powder Coating system

Ok.. Finally getting into 'off-season' perk with campground closed for the season and etc. Am getting back to moto project.. with small budget, though..

So here is the homemade sandblaster and powder coating system I made to do the project.

My dad's gave me the sandblaster.. he was once a man with philosophy of one who die with the most tools win.. until his health deteriorated so much he decided I should inherit his tools a lot sooner than later so his 2nd wife's 3 daughter's husband won't come in the shop and take away what should be mine. :-) He told me that it was empty inside.. but gosh it was so heavy.

I built a homemade sandblaster box because $100 Harbor Freight set was too much for me.. Redneck style but as long as it works, I am OK with it.



I was advised it would be a good idea to build enclosed powder coating box so I made one..



My family owns a mobile home park on other property and few mobile homes on this property.. One of them, I decided to take a very old oven out of the kitchen so we can renovate it for my sister to live by herself. She just graduated from college with Bachelor in Elementary Education and got the job at Elementary school few miles from where we live. Anyway.. it has two ovens which is perfect for Powder Coating!



Of course this is in one of the mobile home, which I converted into a shower house for the campground. That was the only way I could get it done without ponying up $$ for the septic tank and etc. So the kitchen is now Powder Coating room. Half of it is storage holding family stuff.

I was really pressed on time to get the hub off to Buchanan's Spoke to build new Sun Rims set for my motorcycle. They received KTM Talon's front hub first week of Sept and it is now Oct! So first thing first was to do a test run and my first choice was KLR650 Clutch Lever..



So I start up sandblaster and it seems to be running funny? It would spray out aluminum oxide constantly although the nozzle is 'closed' and it would go then stop then go then stop.. seems that the flow is not correct but I improvised and make do with it.. I had to reload the sandblaster once and finished sandblasting the lever in 30 mins. Wearing the rubber dishwasher gloves, I cleaned lever off with denatured alcohol before I put it in the oven to pre-heat. After few mins, I pull it out of oven and put it in powder coat enclose. Powder coated it.. and it looks good.



One thing I did noticed.. the dust was pretty bad and now that explain why I see on YouTube someone used a ac/heater filter in the back to vacuum the dust from powder.. anyway, after I baked the lever, result was great! Not bad for first time! All in 1 hour and so work.. Not bad.



Thrilled and excited.. I decided it to get busy with the hub. Oh man! The problem with sandblast became really annoying.. Mind you, I am using my friend's 21-gallon air compressor and for some reason I can't adjust the PSI with it. I can't get up with him because he is currently in alcohol rehabilitation as he just had a relapse. The sandblast is blowing air then media then air then media.. in the process, the dust increase making it difficult to see through the window. I purchased small wet/dry vacuum from Lowe's for $26 and drilled hole on top so the vacuum could suck dust.. well, it worked for a while until the dust clogged up the vacuum. It took about 7 refill to do the whole hub. In the process of scooping up the aluminum oxide, I felt like I was a coal miner collecting black stuff and load it up into a bag (sandblast container). I was dusty black all over my long sleeve, hands, and some smears on my face. By the time I was through, I was so friggin happy to get out of that shirt and washed myself clean. Almost 2 hours sandblasting the hub alone. After I cleaned it off, this is what it looked like!



If you got a keen eye, you will notice that this hub apparently were done sloppy. You can see that it is a bit off and not look professional. Nonetheless, I am going to use this one anyway because it was free and it beats paying $350 for similar one in aluminum billet. So after powder coating the hub, I am glad it looks good.. I put it on foil inside the box so I could transport it while it is still hot (took longer to cool off due to steel) to friend's to pack the bearing and assemble it before my friend can ship it from his work place on Monday. His shipping price seems to be 3/4 what it would normally cost at FedEx/UPS/USPS so I'd rather save money using his shipping service at work.



I got many more parts I want to powder coat but first thing first.. I need a dust mask (it was shipped Oct 4th and due to arrive on 17th? New Nozzle to get better control of sandblast and maybe re-do the powder coat enclose with ac/heater filter. I'll get them done this week and get to Forks and cam/primary cover before end of the week, hopefully.

WhicheverAnyWayCan screwed with this post 10-12-2013 at 01:35 PM
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:25 PM   #78
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Miss Señorita & Tire Size Help!

Just return back from Colombia few days ago and getting back into daily routine but man, I am still buzzing over my nueva novia!




Anyway, before I left for Colombia, I got myself a nice birthday gift, wheels from Buchanan's Soke: (SPOT was birthday gift from my mother and sister, which I used in Colombia)


Need some help to know how to find right size of tire for my Buchanan's rim? Apparently there is no chart for 2.15X21 (front)? And 80/90X18 is good for 2.75X18? (rear) Please advise and for future reference, is there a simple math method how I can find the answer without looking at the chart? I want to be able to calculate for answer myself without looking at the chart in case I am in middle of nowhere where chart won't be around I can figure it out using my head?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: In case you are wondering, yes I am starting to assemble my bike together now.. hope to be done by New Year Eve? The tire I am leaning toward right now is Kenda 761 Dual Sport. I liked K270 when I used it for TAT last year and I was on same set for 15,000 miles (did it whole TAT and back to home in NC then to Ohio and back so I am impressed with Kenda).

WhicheverAnyWayCan screwed with this post 11-23-2013 at 01:02 PM
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:26 PM   #79
madrider5150
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Those wheels turned out killer!
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:08 PM   #80
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Bad news!!

Bad news- I have struck a disaster!!

I was disassembling the fork and in the process, I nicked the fork tube really deep! Nick is at BAD spot, about 1 and 2 inches above the fork leg area. Very bad position! Although the hydraulic guy had a look at it and he thinks it will be OK and shouldn't affect the seal, I am not sure about it myself.

After completely disassembling the whole fork, one of the fork leg has few really small dings on the inside that could possible affect the seal?

If I am to toss out the 50mm WP fork set and replace it with other front end, which front end has a 17mm diameter to hold 17mm axle?? Yamaha YZ250?

Please help with suggestion on solution. I've put around $500 into front end (including custom fork springs from Konflict Motorsports on ADVrider). I emailed Alex but he is probably closed for Thanksgiving.. I wonder if there is any way to fix the tube?? re-chroming?? Fork Leg remain to be a concern if I do get the fork tube fixed.

I'm bum out at the moment..
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:45 AM   #81
FR700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Bad news- I have struck a disaster!!

...

I wonder if there is any way to fix the tube?? re-chroming?? Fork Leg remain to be a concern if I do get the fork tube fixed.

I'm bum out at the moment..



Shit happens and its done.



Don't laugh.

Super glue the minor stone nicks and for something a bit bigger/deeper , Devcon.

If it warrants it , file down anything that looks like it may be a stress riser then finish off by using a fine linishing ( not emery ) tape.

Devcon takes a good day to cure so don't be in a hurry.



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Old 11-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #82
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR700 View Post
Shit happens and its done.



Don't laugh.

Super glue the minor stone nicks and for something a bit bigger/deeper , Devcon.

If it warrants it , file down anything that looks like it may be a stress riser then finish off by using a fine linishing ( not emery ) tape.

Devcon takes a good day to cure so don't be in a hurry.



I've read about Super Glue and Nail Mender on some dirt bike forum so no I wasn't laughing.. anyone in desperate situation like myself is always open to any suggestion

I went ahead and ordered Devcon so it should be here next week. Here is pic of the nick to get some idea how bad it is..

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Old 11-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #83
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I wouldn't mess around with this. I believe the damage can be repaired as good as new. Forking by Frank has been around forever and should be able to restore as good as new. Reweld, rechrome and return. I'm hoping this is the correct link but check around to be sure. Don't fool around with forks. The repair is not that crazy expensive.

http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

Hope this helps.

Jack





Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Bad news- I have struck a disaster!!

I was disassembling the fork and in the process, I nicked the fork tube really deep! Nick is at BAD spot, about 1 and 2 inches above the fork leg area. Very bad position! Although the hydraulic guy had a look at it and he thinks it will be OK and shouldn't affect the seal, I am not sure about it myself.

After completely disassembling the whole fork, one of the fork leg has few really small dings on the inside that could possible affect the seal?

If I am to toss out the 50mm WP fork set and replace it with other front end, which front end has a 17mm diameter to hold 17mm axle?? Yamaha YZ250?

Please help with suggestion on solution. I've put around $500 into front end (including custom fork springs from Konflict Motorsports on ADVrider). I emailed Alex but he is probably closed for Thanksgiving.. I wonder if there is any way to fix the tube?? re-chroming?? Fork Leg remain to be a concern if I do get the fork tube fixed.

I'm bum out at the moment..
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:56 AM   #84
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Seven Springs NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishguide View Post
I wouldn't mess around with this. I believe the damage can be repaired as good as new. Forking by Frank has been around forever and should be able to restore as good as new. Reweld, rechrome and return. I'm hoping this is the correct link but check around to be sure. Don't fool around with forks. The repair is not that crazy expensive.

http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

Hope this helps.

Jack
I called them and they said they can't fix it.. only replace it?

Devcon it will be, then!
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:59 AM   #85
Konflict Motorsports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
I've read about Super Glue and Nail Mender on some dirt bike forum so no I wasn't laughing.. anyone in desperate situation like myself is always open to any suggestion

I went ahead and ordered Devcon so it should be here next week. Here is pic of the nick to get some idea how bad it is..

I am still on the road, returning from a week away with the family, can you provide a better picture, and one spaced far back so I can see where on the tube it is damaged? Ill look into this more once I get back, I think I have a set of upper tubes for these I might be able to part with, I'll have to double check though.
You have a couple of options for repair. I'm viewing this on an iPad cruising down I5 headed home, once I see a better picture and where its located on the tube I'll be able to give a better answer/solution.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:16 AM   #86
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konflict Motorsports View Post
I am still on the road, returning from a week away with the family, can you provide a better picture, and one spaced far back so I can see where on the tube it is damaged? Ill look into this more once I get back, I think I have a set of upper tubes for these I might be able to part with, I'll have to double check though.
You have a couple of options for repair. I'm viewing this on an iPad cruising down I5 headed home, once I see a better picture and where its located on the tube I'll be able to give a better answer/solution.
That would be awesome! I'll take pic and video of it then email you. In that case, I'll wait a week or so and see what can be done.
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:54 PM   #87
I Am Murphy
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Love the build man, looks totally sweet! ...I didn't realize you were doing all that powder coating yourself, which is what it looked like from the thread - kudos on that, man. So I've got a burning question. The biggest hangup I have run into thus far is the rear wheel. There are no dual sport tires small enough in inner diameter to fit the stock rear wheel, and I can't find any pre-fab aftermarket 18" spoke rims that are meant for the '01 Sporty. I've looked into a few places to have a wheel built, but the costs are pretty high. Looks like you were able to use older wheels from eBay? I'm hoping to find a cheaper alternative that will enable me to put a dual sport tire on the rear end of my whip - did you have to do any mods to the wheels you got to get them working (rear in particular)?
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:45 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by I Am Murphy View Post
Love the build man, looks totally sweet! ...I didn't realize you were doing all that powder coating yourself, which is what it looked like from the thread - kudos on that, man. So I've got a burning question. The biggest hangup I have run into thus far is the rear wheel. There are no dual sport tires small enough in inner diameter to fit the stock rear wheel, and I can't find any pre-fab aftermarket 18" spoke rims that are meant for the '01 Sporty. I've looked into a few places to have a wheel built, but the costs are pretty high. Looks like you were able to use older wheels from eBay? I'm hoping to find a cheaper alternative that will enable me to put a dual sport tire on the rear end of my whip - did you have to do any mods to the wheels you got to get them working (rear in particular)?
Hi,

Sorry I didn't reply to you any sooner on your thread asking me where to find my build thread but I am glad you found it and welcome to my build thread. First rear rim I got was for free from local H-D dealer but it was 16" and I felt it was too low I may not get the ground clearance I wanted so cut the hub out and sold rim for $30. I found out that the hub is alloy and not as strong as I would want it to be so I sold it for $30 and someone at XLForum was giving his H-D Cafe rim away for free I paid shipping cost of $50. Unfortunately the rim itself was bent but the hub is something I could use so I sold the rim for $25 to buyer who acknowledge it is bent.

Buchanan sells aluminum billet hub same as one that I have on my new rear rim but it would run me $300 and it weights 6.5lbs I think. I am thinking off my head.. but the hub I currently have is 7.5lbs so I didn't see any point in spending $300 to save 1lbs so I stayed with steel hub.

To answer your question, I considered Excel 17" & 18" rim but Buchanan's assured me that their Sun Rim is much stronger and slight heavier than Excel's so I bit the bullet and pony up for their rims (front & rear). I ordered Talon hub for $330 shipped directly to Buchanan's then I powder coat rear hub myself and shipped it to Buchanan's. Their turnaround time was faster than I expected. I think it took them few days to process plus few days of shipping from CA.

As I type, I have new tires, Kendra K761, arriving this Wednesday and few tire tools. Fuel tank and triple trees have been stripped and ready for powder coat. I expect to finish this project up very soon but I have got two new contract job cutting Timber Frame kits for two different clients I have to do them before I leave for Colombia on Feb 4th. Been busy! Cutting Timber Frame kits for clients really help add up traveling funds very fast!
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:24 AM   #89
PPCLI-Jim
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Billet VS Cast

Difference Between Cast and Billet
To create an aluminum casting, one must first create a mold of the part that is to be created. The mold is formed when the pattern is pushed into chemically binded sand leaving the impression of the part to be casted. Once the mold is complete the molten aluminum is poured into the mold and allowed to cool and harden. Once the molten aluminum solidifies, the mold is pulled apart and out comes the desired part. Then Finished with final production of bearing surfaces, tapped holes etc.

A billet is a solid block of aluminum with the size depending on the size of your desired part. The larger the desired part, the larger the billet. Contrary to casting, billet parts are created by removing excess aluminum from the billet, essentially the part is carved out of solid aluminum.

While both methods can produce the same exact part, each method has its own distinct set of advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of billet:

Cost effective in low quantities
High degree of precision
Very short lead times
Structurally the parts are stronger
Disadvantages of billet:

Costs increase as quantities increase
Some designs are not cost effective to machine
Some designs cannot be machined from solid billet
Advantages of Casting:

Cost effective at low quantities
Can produce parts of all sizes
Capable of producing uniquely shaped parts
Disadvantages of Casting:

Labor intensive
Reduced dimensional accuracy compared to billet
Rough surface finish
Imperfections or defects in the metal
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:13 AM   #90
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PPCLI-Jim,

Thanks for the info.. very informative!
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