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Old 12-26-2012, 01:07 AM   #1
redprimo OP
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Gas tank repair advice needed

This is the tank off of an XL500s that I am restoring. At first glance it looked to be in pretty decent shape other then the dent you see and a couple of small dings. Even so I shopped around on epay for a bit to see if I could find something for less money than what it would cost me to pick up a stud welder to fix the dent with. Most of what I saw was in way worse shape than what I have or stupid expensive.



I blasted the tank and found a few pin holes on both side of the bottom seams on both sides of the tank. Looking inside it looks pretty clean with some light rust except for a few areas. Frankly I I was a bit surprised to see the pin holes show up. Normally I would pack some heat shield putty around each area and tig weld the holes. I am a bit worried that if I try tig welding these that they will turn out to be Swiss cheese and open up larger. This has me considering brazing them with some silver. With a 000 tip I should be able to control the temp enough to keep it from opening up. My concern with brazing is that it will dump way more heat into the tank and I’m worried about heat distortion even if I use heat shield putty. Any thoughts, suggestions, or tips? I won’t be tackling this until after the first of the year and I still need to de-rust the inside before I do any welding.





If anyone wants to see what the rest of the bike looks like here is my restoration thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834942

redprimo screwed with this post 12-26-2012 at 01:15 AM
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:48 AM   #2
panhead_dan
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Looks like that tank has just about had it. The pattern the pin holes make shows that it's rotted all around the bottom. If it were me, I would prep the inside and use creme tank sealer, paint it and run it till the sealer failed while shopping for a better tank.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:21 PM   #3
mjydrafter
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Not to disagree with Panhead Dan, but I would skip the kreem, and use the POR15 kit, it comes with the de-rusting stuff too.

The POR15 will seal those holes.

Then keep searching for a replacement.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_dan View Post
Looks like that tank has just about had it.
Ayup!

http://justgastanks.com/product_info...8741416ca9d9d2

I know it co$t$ twice what the bike did, but after reading your thread, I guess you know all about "mission creep".

BTW, nice job you're doing!
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:23 PM   #5
concours
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I've been TIG welding 35 years, FAA and ASME section III and VIII certified. You're right, you'd be chasing the holes. The tank is very thinned in between the rust HOLES. Lead solder and acid flux will do it. I've done worse, lasted 20+ years so far, bike still in service. Forget the tank coating crap, more headaches than worth.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:07 PM   #6
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Question flesh this out please

Quote:
Originally Posted by concours View Post
I've been TIG welding 35 years, FAA and ASME section III and VIII certified. You're right, you'd be chasing the holes. The tank is very thinned in between the rust HOLES. Lead solder and acid flux will do it. I've done worse, lasted 20+ years so far, bike still in service. Forget the tank coating crap, more headaches than worth.
Would you recommend just doing the holes or should a person solder a narrow band all the way around the tank, top and bottom?
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:42 AM   #7
redprimo OP
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Would you use a torch or a big iron to solder with? What kind of heat dis
tortion should I expect?
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:15 PM   #8
Beezer
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+1 on the solder. I have done this a few times & it worked well. I have used both (big) electric iron and propane torch. the electric is nice if the tank still has fumes. solder then POR
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:23 PM   #9
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Take the tank to a radiator shop and have them hot tank it, yes it will take off all the paint. Then you can have them coat the inside with solder or you can using a propane torch or a big iron like a 550 watt american beauty from Newark Electronics, it is over 300 though, I would get the radiator shop to do it. Then you can sand and refinish the outside. It will last a long time this way.

Rod
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:39 PM   #10
FlySniper
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+9x10^26 On soldering.

I use a butane micro torch. I first clean the tank by soaking in soapy water for a few days, rinse with water and then rinse again with acetone... allow a couple more days to dry.

This last time around I used a strong degreaser and followed up with acetone, and then dropped dry ice in the tank to displace the oxygen (I'm paranoid... don't want to get all blowed up).
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:27 PM   #11
vtwin
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I'm going through the same thing in Old Skool and another Advrider sent me this link.

Moyers Tank Renu , Greensburg PA

www.gas-tank.com

Pricey, but if you don't have a choice.....
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:04 PM   #12
concours
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Propane torch, gently, lightly, continuous movement. Tinning the entire area. Your blasted near white, the acid will make it flow easily. The fumes are a non-issue, rinse with isopropyl alcohol (dry-gas), then blow dry. All gone.
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