WarmnSafe Dual Remote Heat Troller Wiring Question

kars85 · 11-28-2012, 01:11 PM

Hopefully an easy answer here -

I'm in the process of wiring up my dual remote mounted heat troller and was curious if it was OK if I wired the power harness for the control knobs to my eastern beaver distribution block. I've got too much stuff hanging off my battery as it is...

Mike said both harnesses should be wired directly to the battery, but I can't imagine that the nominal power draw of the controller portion needing that much juice?

I'm still in the process of fully understanding how the pants/jacket combo uses the same power, but independent signal. Haven't got into looking at how that all wires up together...

Thanks!

greywolf · 11-28-2012, 05:19 PM

I've run my heated gear off a PC8 for 5 years. It's fine.

kars85 · 11-29-2012, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greywolf

I've run my heated gear off a PC8 for 5 years. It's fine.

Thanks...I know it might sound like a dumb question but I'd rather ask once than need to redo it.

That being said, should I just cut the harness off before the inline fuse since the PC-8's already going to have one? Seem logical, but electricity and logic to me is foreign until I've done it once.

Last one before I turn off the lights on these elementary questions...of the two harnesses I received, one is for the HeatTroller controls and the other I'll route somewhere near the seat area to plug my remote receiver into for powering my jacket & pants?

greywolf · 11-29-2012, 07:41 PM

I don't have the wireless controller but that sounds reasonable. I cut off the fuse and extended the wires since I put the wired controller on the handlebar.

kars85 · 11-30-2012, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greywolf

I don't have the wireless controller but that sounds reasonable. I cut off the fuse and extended the wires since I put the wired controller on the handlebar.

Thanks for your help...once i get my voltmeter in I'll tackle this as well...

OaklandStrom · 12-02-2012, 09:58 AM

The PC-8 has a max capacity that I just grabbed from their website.

- maximum fuse panel capacity 60 Amps (40A/20A - switched/unswitched)

I assume you are wiring the heat-trollers to the switched side (because it's smart to do that). All you need to do is make sure that:
1) The fuse for the heat-troller is large enough for the load you are placing on it.
2) The capacity of the wiring is more than the capacity of the fuse.
3) The total Wattage of things connected to the switched side of the PC-8 is 40Amps or less.

Amps, Watts & volts - oh my!
Watts = volts x amps. Your bike is 12 volts (although usually 13+).

If your jacket is 90 Watts, then it is 90/12 or 7.5 amps.
If the gloves are 30 Watts, then the controller will be running (90+30)/12 = 10 amps. You need a fuse that is at least 10 amps. They make a 10 and a 15, so use a 15.

11-28-2012, 01:11 PM	#1
kars85 ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2010 Location: IOWA Oddometer: 32	WarmnSafe Dual Remote Heat Troller Wiring Question Hopefully an easy answer here - I'm in the process of wiring up my dual remote mounted heat troller and was curious if it was OK if I wired the power harness for the control knobs to my eastern beaver distribution block. I've got too much stuff hanging off my battery as it is... Mike said both harnesses should be wired directly to the battery, but I can't imagine that the nominal power draw of the controller portion needing that much juice? I'm still in the process of fully understanding how the pants/jacket combo uses the same power, but independent signal. Haven't got into looking at how that all wires up together... Thanks! kars85 screwed with this post 11-28-2012 at 03:32 PM

11-28-2012, 05:19 PM	#2
greywolf Unpaved road avoider Joined: Apr 2006 Location: Evanston IL Oddometer: 888	I've run my heated gear off a PC8 for 5 years. It's fine. __________________ Pat in order of ownership 1971 Honda CB350, 2 1973 Honda CB500s, one was stolen, 1974 Can-Am 175 TNT, 1978 Yamaha XS11, 1978 Honda CX500, 1975 BMW R90S, 1983 BMW R65LS, 2005 Suzuki DL650 totaled, 2007 Suzuki DL650A, 2012 Suzuki DL650A

11-29-2012, 07:41 PM	#4
greywolf Unpaved road avoider Joined: Apr 2006 Location: Evanston IL Oddometer: 888	I don't have the wireless controller but that sounds reasonable. I cut off the fuse and extended the wires since I put the wired controller on the handlebar. __________________ Pat in order of ownership 1971 Honda CB350, 2 1973 Honda CB500s, one was stolen, 1974 Can-Am 175 TNT, 1978 Yamaha XS11, 1978 Honda CX500, 1975 BMW R90S, 1983 BMW R65LS, 2005 Suzuki DL650 totaled, 2007 Suzuki DL650A, 2012 Suzuki DL650A

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12-02-2012, 09:58 AM	#6
OaklandStrom Beastly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2005 Location: East Bay Oddometer: 1,490	The PC-8 has a max capacity that I just grabbed from their website. - maximum fuse panel capacity 60 Amps (40A/20A - switched/unswitched) I assume you are wiring the heat-trollers to the switched side (because it's smart to do that). All you need to do is make sure that: 1) The fuse for the heat-troller is large enough for the load you are placing on it. 2) The capacity of the wiring is more than the capacity of the fuse. 3) The total Wattage of things connected to the switched side of the PC-8 is 40Amps or less. Amps, Watts & volts - oh my! Watts = volts x amps. Your bike is 12 volts (although usually 13+). If your jacket is 90 Watts, then it is 90/12 or 7.5 amps. If the gloves are 30 Watts, then the controller will be running (90+30)/12 = 10 amps. You need a fuse that is at least 10 amps. They make a 10 and a 15, so use a 15.