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Old 08-09-2013, 08:40 AM   #931
Roadscum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by live2offroad View Post
My bike lost a bunch of unnecessary weight yesterday..

You can read about why it's ok here
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15335

And..... Ya probably lost a handful of low end torque.

Regards, Paul
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:52 AM   #932
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Does anybody know how complex it is to swap the shocks (front and rear) on a Camhead R? 2013 model.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:06 AM   #933
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...not complicated at all. If your at all mechanically inclined and a few wrenches, it's a 1 hour job.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:08 AM   #934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by live2offroad View Post
My bike lost a bunch of unnecessary weight yesterday..

You can read about why it's ok here
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15335
Less weight, then that be a race bike, eh?
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:09 AM   #935
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...not complicated at all. If your at all mechanically inclined and a few wrenches, it's a 1 hour job.
Do you know the necessary work is? Do I have to take parts off? Or can most things stay in place (like fork, wheels, ...)?
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:17 AM   #936
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I've done the job, most of it was easy. I don't remember all of the steps, but what I do remember is about the rear lower shock bolt. It's heavily coated with loctite. I had to heat the swingarm with a torch to get it out, and had to replace the bolt with a new one afterwards because the head was damaged. So make sure to have a torch handy before you start.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:29 AM   #937
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Best to have some sort of lift like Harbor Freight or Sears sells that will jack the bike up from the center, both or one wheel at a time suspended off the ground or close to the ground.
Do one end at a time.
Lift the rear so that both bolts don't have any stress on them and remove.
In other words, the tire can be on the ground but you'll adjust the lift to relieve tension on the bolts.
Same for the front.

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Old 08-09-2013, 09:33 AM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Do you know the necessary work is? Do I have to take parts off? Or can most things stay in place (like fork, wheels, ...)?
I'm pretty sure it should be the same procedure as on my 07' 12R, in that case you'll need to at the very least slide the tank back (couple of bolts), easy to remove it to give you more space too. It also depends on if you still have the charcoal canister on, a mod you could do while in there, or just remove it and then put it back on. You'll need to support the front of the bike to remove the shock with a jack or by lifting it with a ratchet strap. Remove the top nut first then break loose the lower bolt, then support the bike.
BMW calls for replacing both upper and lower bolts on the rear and the lower from the front when removing the shock since they come micro-incapsulated with locktite from the factory.

Wheels can stay on as far as I remember. Let me know if you need any other help, I probably have more photos. But yes, like mentioned it's a pretty straightforward job to DIY. Probably could find you the torque specs too if you don't have a service manual, assuming they are the same for the different model years, which I would think they would be but can't confirm.












How I support the front:

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Lost Rider screwed with this post 08-09-2013 at 09:45 AM
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:39 AM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by live2offroad View Post
My bike lost a bunch of unnecessary weight yesterday..
You can read about why it's ok here
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15335
live2offroad, what parts did you use and where did you get them? I want to run a full-size left case and found this thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=905818

And MIXR, BobbySands, and Mr. Canoehead mentioning running a turn-down. I think I need a 1.75" clamp-on style but haven't found one, even on Amazon. I was thinking of getting a weld-on type and just cutting a slot in it to clamp it. I don't want to make the change permanent so no weld-ons. What did you use?

Thanks!

-- Scott
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:41 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
Best to have some sort of lift like Harbor Freight or Sears sells that will jack the bike up from the center, both or one wheel at a time suspended off the ground or close to the ground.


I had one of those, it didn't seem to be able to lift the bike evenly since the motor isn't wide enough and oddly shaped, was very wobbly, at least the one I had, maybe yours is different. Using a standard jack and center stand is pretty solid.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:46 AM   #941
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Yes, forgot about the center stand...mater o fact I think I used it myself.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:10 AM   #942
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Speaking of center stands, I have a brand new center stand for a 12R in my garage if anyone needs one for a great price, PM me.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:39 AM   #943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadscum View Post
And..... Ya probably lost a handful of low end torque.

Regards, Paul
None. All the needed back pressure comes from the Catalytic converter.. The mixture sensor is also well before the "can".. Read the info..
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Old 08-09-2013, 04:58 PM   #944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mens Rea View Post
live2offroad, what parts did you use and where did you get them? I want to run a full-size left case and found this thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=905818

And MIXR, BobbySands, and Mr. Canoehead mentioning running a turn-down. I think I need a 1.75" clamp-on style but haven't found one, even on Amazon. I was thinking of getting a weld-on type and just cutting a slot in it to clamp it. I don't want to make the change permanent so no weld-ons. What did you use?

Thanks!

-- Scott
That is a cheap chrome temp tip from Walmart while the 8in pipe comes in to the shop I ordered it from..

The Tip is aesthetic, you can just pull the can and let it run.. I like the 8in tip because it ports the hot gas past both rider and passenger foot rest.

-Peter
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Old 08-09-2013, 05:17 PM   #945
Ricky Chuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadscum View Post
And..... Ya probably lost a handful of low end torque.

Regards, Paul
Road S, is that pipe emptying into the front of any suitcase you'd put on there? Any worry about hurting the suitcase?
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