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Old 12-01-2012, 12:43 AM   #1
biggus OP
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Compressing Suspension

So I need to fit my shocks into a suitcase. Should there be any problem compressing the forks as in the pic and going on a plane ride? The forks are compressed 9cm in the pic. I can fit it in my soft sided case but would rather use my hard case. To do that I would have to squat them down an additional 16cm (will need a ratchet strap for that), basically bottoming them out!

Whatcha all think?

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Old 12-01-2012, 02:20 AM   #2
Peanuts
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I have done this in the past.

I take out the springs. Easy to do. Allow them to drip dry for an hour. Pop them in a plastic bag, double bag.
The forks can then be collapsed easily and are way shorter. Wrap the forks and springs in one bundle about 2 ft long.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
I have done this in the past.

I take out the springs. Easy to do. Allow them to drip dry for an hour. Pop them in a plastic bag, double bag.
The forks can then be collapsed easily and are way shorter. Wrap the forks and springs in one bundle about 2 ft long.

Thanks Peanuts...

I would have to see if there is a way to remove the caps without the correct tool for the job.

I have .70 springs in there now. Once I back those caps out how much force am I going to be looking at? I don't want to end up with 4 steel rods in my hand.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:52 PM   #4
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And you don't want to end up with the fork caps where your teeth used to be.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:20 PM   #5
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Take out the air bleeders,compress , turn up side down drain oil compress more , this way you are only compressing the spring . Simple .
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #6
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No need to drain the oil.

With forks in the clamps, undo top clamp then undo the cap by winding the preload nut out until it hits the stop ... but only use this method if the cap comes off without too much force. If it is tight, use a 2 pin adjustable angle grinder tool or the proper thing. There is no need to tighten caps too tight as its the O ring that seals and the caps wont come loose once the top clamp is tight.

There is nothing loose under spring tension at this stage.

After fully unscrewing the cap, compress the fork and the cap/spring/cartridge assembly will rise up.

Then insert a 8mm or slimmer 22mm open ended wrench through the coils of the spring to hold the nut in there, then use a 24mm wrench to unscre the cap off the cartridge. Fully remove the cap, pull out the 22mm wrench and pull off the spring.

Collapse the fork and re-attach the cap.

If the ally tube comes out with the cap, drop it into place but make sure it is sitting almost flush with the end of the cartridge, do it a few times and you will see it can sit in two positions and you need it to sit in as far as it will go, otherwise it is sitting on the edge of the rebound valve instead of over it.


Assembly is reversal of removal. Use the 22mm wrench to hold the cartridge through the spring, wind the wrench up, carrying the cartridge with it, then attach the cap.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
No need to drain the oil.

With forks in the clamps, undo top clamp then undo the cap by winding the preload nut out until it hits the stop ... but only use this method if the cap comes off without too much force. If it is tight, use a 2 pin adjustable angle grinder tool or the proper thing. There is no need to tighten caps too tight as its the O ring that seals and the caps wont come loose once the top clamp is tight.

There is nothing loose under spring tension at this stage.

After fully unscrewing the cap, compress the fork and the cap/spring/cartridge assembly will rise up.

Then insert a 8mm or slimmer 22mm open ended wrench through the coils of the spring to hold the nut in there, then use a 24mm wrench to unscre the cap off the cartridge. Fully remove the cap, pull out the 22mm wrench and pull off the spring.

Collapse the fork and re-attach the cap.

If the ally tube comes out with the cap, drop it into place but make sure it is sitting almost flush with the end of the cartridge, do it a few times and you will see it can sit in two positions and you need it to sit in as far as it will go, otherwise it is sitting on the edge of the rebound valve instead of over it.


Assembly is reversal of removal. Use the 22mm wrench to hold the cartridge through the spring, wind the wrench up, carrying the cartridge with it, then attach the cap.

Did you read that he has no tools ,
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:51 AM   #8
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I wish I was able to pull the springs out easily but....that does not look like it will be feasible.

Should I worry about damaging the internals of the forks if I do fully compress the forks for shipping?

I would rather not have my Super Plush work turn to Super Mush.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggus View Post
I wish I was able to pull the springs out easily but....that does not look like it will be feasible.

Should I worry about damaging the internals of the forks if I do fully compress the forks for shipping?

I would rather not have my Super Plush work turn to Super Mush.
open the bleeder screw on top of the fork as you compress. This will get rid of the "air spring" so you're only compressing the springs and it will prevent the seals from having to hold the pressure the entire time. After doing that I wouldn't worry about it, just make sure you open the bleed screw up as you extend them so there isn't a massive vacuum in there.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:43 AM   #10
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Before getting to the airport I'd suggest you call the airline and check with them if they will allow you to carry the assembled forks with oil in them (yes, even in the suitcase)... Too many things labeled "dangerous goods" now days and you wouldn't want to get to the airport and find out you can't take your forks with you....

Hopefully, that is not the case, but I think its worth checking. Good luck
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