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Old 12-04-2012, 06:53 PM   #16
PhiSig1071 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
If I'm reading this correctly, 30,000 miles and it's on its fourth chain.... 7,500 miles per chain... I'd replace the front sprocket too. Chain comes in different tensile strengths, typically the bigger the engine the greater strength chain needed. If it's a decent chain properly installed and lubed once in a while it should last a lot longer than that. I'm at 20,000 miles on the original chain on my bike, and it's still got 5+K in it at least.
I just put the fourth chain on today, so it's worn three chains out by 30k miles, so 10k miles per chain. But still maybe shorter life then average?

Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
+1 on the overtightening. The rear suspension wouldn't even budge if it were extrememly tight.

If that's a EK x-ring chain I'd email them and say WTF??

Tip: I'd remove the CS sprocket and grease the splines. Reduces wear and makes it easier to come off.
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Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
Did you remove the front sprocket to clean the corrosion I see creeping on the splines behind the snap ring?
It is an EK chain, and apparently I need to go back in and pull the cs sprocket to lube the spline and clean corrosion (wire brush? how would I seal it afterward to keep the newly exposed metal from corroding worse?) so I may end up changing the CS sprocket while I'm doing all that.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:01 PM   #17
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Compare that CS to a new one and it is worn. I get the theory about aluminum vs steel and wear but your rear sprocket is also many times bigger. Getting 20k out of a matched set of new parts isn't out of line for pure street riding, especially on a lower HP bike with an easy rider on the bars. Spend the extra $14, it is cheaper in the long run.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:03 PM   #18
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That CS sprocket in your OP is worn pretty well. A full set would run 15-20K miles, but your replacement will probably be lucky to get 7K.

The amount of miles the bike ran in the last month has no impact on how well the chain wears. The drive system as a whole, determines the wear on the chain. If the last chain only got 5-10K miles then there is something wrong or something that was not replaced with the group the last time chain and sprockets were changed.

For about $200 it does not make sense to not change the entire drive at once considering how short lived chains are when you dont replace BOTH sprockets at the same time.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:46 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
For about $200 it does not make sense to not change the entire drive at once considering how short lived chains are when you dont replace BOTH sprockets at the same time.
That bike uses the snap ring method to secure the C/S sprocket, which is inferior to using a big nut to hold it. Snap rings allow movement, which can wear the C/S splines. Use a small wire brush to clean them, and get some moly dry spray. Spray several coats on both shaft and sprocket.

BTW, unlike chains where the pitch gets longer as the internals wear, sprockets maintain their pitch. Unless it's worn a bunch, used sprockets do NOT wear chains out faster, whereas a worn chain will increase sprocket wear. Most chains wear internally, not on the OD of the rollers.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
I agree, however, I have never really had an issue with it. I always change the rear, because they're aluminum, but I've only changed the front once, and that was just to go down one tooth on my '03 GSXR600. I have 30k miles on my GSXR, (including about 20 trackdays over the past five years) and I think I'm on my third chain. I don't know, maybe that is unusually short lifespan and I just don't know it. My fiancee's GS has about 30k on it as well and it's on it's fourth chain as of today (however, it's on it's second rear sprocket, and I do attribute the short life span on the third chain to the rear sprocket being pretty chewed up when she had the chain installed, I was out of town for a few months when she had it done). Hell, if it chews up this chain too quickly then it'll just give me an excuse to learn more about working on the bike.

Now, another question, I have always had this work done by a shop, but this time I decided to do it myself. I have a chain breaker/rivet tool, and I am using the rivet style master link. I followed the instructions for riveting the master link, but it doesn't seem like the rivet "flanged" out far enough. I did it by hand, and snugged it down slightly with a small wrench. What do you guys think?

You should be able to find a spec for the diameter of the pin heads after swaging for the brand of chain. That doesn't look too bad, BTW, it's close. Too much is worse than not enough, IMO -- you run the risk of cracking the pin heads and then you're in trouble. That looks like an RK chain? EDIT saw you said it's an EK.

Quick google serach says for a 530 EK chain (I'm assuming that's what this one is) the pin diameter after swaging should be 5.70 mm - 6.00mm (0.224" - 0.236").

BTW 10K per chain is on short side for chain life for a street bike. Make sure that chain is not running to tight -- setting it to spec without weight on the rear wheel sometimes can make it too tight when there IS weight on the rear wheel and the suspension compresses. Ideally you measure slack with a straight line between the centers of the sprockets. I would also replace the CS sprocket. Don't worry too much about the snap ring being "inferior" -- many CS sprockets are designed to have a little lateral float -- that's the whole point of splines -- to provide driving torque to a load that may be able to move along the shaft.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
It is an EK chain, and apparently I need to go back in and pull the cs sprocket to lube the spline and clean corrosion (wire brush? how would I seal it afterward to keep the newly exposed metal from corroding worse?) so I may end up changing the CS sprocket while I'm doing all that.
Good....check them splines, that corrosion "powder" is abrasive. I think you need a new sprocket, if just to check the mating of them splines and compare to the old one. You may....or may not, find a little surprise there.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #22
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with that kind of commute, get a chain oiler.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:40 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by LuciferMutt View Post
Quick google serach says for a 530 EK chain (I'm assuming that's what this one is) the pin diameter after swaging should be 5.70 mm - 6.00mm (0.224" - 0.236").
Hopefully it's a 520 chain, given that's what the sprocket is marked as
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:27 AM   #24
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Hopefully it's a 520 chain, given that's what the sprocket is marked as

Oops
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:44 PM   #25
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Oooops...I did a quick search in the JT catalogue, looks like the front sprocket listed is a JTF516-16 for a 520 chain. Can't really read your numbers on your front but I think you should really look at what came out and crossreference there, you may have mismatched parts.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/5685

A little Cut&Paste from somewhere:

{Pitch is the distance between two roller centers. Having the same pitch means they will all fit on the thinner sprocket. 520, 525, and 530 will all fit on a 520 sprocket, but a 530 sprocket will only fit 530 chain.}
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:19 AM   #26
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Well that might explain the short chain life.
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