ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #1
Texas Airhead OP
n00b
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Oddometer: 3
Electrical Troubles

Well, not the way I wanted to have my first post go, but my newly acquired R90/6 has some issues. The bike was fine electrically with the exception of the horn button not working. From researching it appears mine has the earlier controls. I took the headlight/horn switch apart and the solid black wire had come out of its hole. Looking at my Clymers wire diagram this goes to the horn and explains why it wasn't working. Well, while i had the switch off i disconnected the clutch wires so i could hold everything easier. the black wire from the horn touched a wire to the clutch, the horn beeped and i separated the wires. I'm a retard for letting this happen, I know. After this happened nothing else seems to work. When the key is turned, no lights (neutral or otherwise) light up on the gauge cluster. Turn signals no longer work, and the start button doesn't work. Essentially the bike is dead. The only thing that works now is the headlight switch. I can turn the lights from bright to normal beam and that's it.

The only thing these functions have in common seems to route back to the diode in the front cover. Not sure if i fried that or possibly anything else. Maybe the flash relay in the headlight bucket.

Is there anything I should look at and test as the likely culprit of absolutely nothing wanting to work? I don't want to spend time randomly searching but rather systematically search in a logical order. Being new to airheads, I'm not sure where to look first.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Texas Airhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 04:17 PM   #2
Overdog
'Burghherfer.....
 
Overdog's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: McKees Rocks Pa.
Oddometer: 228
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Airhead View Post
Well, not the way I wanted to have my first post go, but my newly acquired R90/6 has some issues. The bike was fine electrically with the exception of the horn button not working. From researching it appears mine has the earlier controls. I took the headlight/horn switch apart and the solid black wire had come out of its hole. Looking at my Clymers wire diagram this goes to the horn and explains why it wasn't working. Well, while i had the switch off i disconnected the clutch wires so i could hold everything easier. the black wire from the horn touched a wire to the clutch, the horn beeped and i separated the wires. I'm a retard for letting this happen, I know. After this happened nothing else seems to work. When the key is turned, no lights (neutral or otherwise) light up on the gauge cluster. Turn signals no longer work, and the start button doesn't work. Essentially the bike is dead. The only thing that works now is the headlight switch. I can turn the lights from bright to normal beam and that's it.


The only thing these functions have in common seems to route back to the diode in the front cover. Not sure if i fried that or possibly anything else. Maybe the flash relay in the headlight bucket.

Is there anything I should look at and test as the likely culprit of absolutely nothing wanting to work? I don't want to spend time randomly searching but rather systematically search in a logical order. Being new to airheads, I'm not sure where to look first.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Doesn't take much to pop a fuse (don't ask me how i know)....get into the headlight bucket and replace the blown fuse. ............................
__________________
1983 Goldwing Interstate
1974 R90/6
1971 Honda CL 350 (shed queen)
Overdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 04:25 PM   #3
Stan_R80/7
Beastly Gnarly
 
Stan_R80/7's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 984
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for the R90/6 - just so you can have another copy. Snowbum's site is a vast cavern of airhead knowledge - but it takes some effort to mine the gems. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/schematic1975,1976.htm

The only thing I can think of is: have you checked to see if you blew one (or both) of the fuses? They are (both) in the headlamp along with headlamp relay and turn signal relay on the wiring block with fuses. Good luck!


p.s. disconnect the battery ground wire at the speedometer cable before messing with the electrics in the future.

Stan_R80/7 screwed with this post 12-07-2012 at 04:57 PM
Stan_R80/7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 04:37 PM   #4
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 7,903
What year is the bike? You say early switches. Do you mean the /5 type switches?

__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #5
Texas Airhead OP
n00b
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Oddometer: 3
From what I could tell, the fuses appeared to be okay. At least the metal bar across the front was in tact. I'm assuming that would be separated if it was blown. I'll remove them and double check though. They looked pretty old to me though, so it wouldn't hurt to replace seeing as fuses are pretty cheap.


As for the switches, that's the correct switches. The bike is a 1974 model


I need to go buy a new multimeter as mine no longer works. And is also why i'm looking for possible problem areas since i'm unable to test at the moment.
__________________
Jared

1974 BMW R90/6
Texas Airhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 04:50 PM   #6
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 7,903
Funny wiring problems with these old bikes if they have seen limited to no use for any length of time. Be cleaning all the contacts as you proceed to look for problem. The fuses in particular can look good and even test good when removed but tiny bits of corrosion on the terminals will prevent them from working.

A working multimeter will be helpful. Also a trouble, or test, light can quickly trace hot leads.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 05:21 PM   #7
Stan_R80/7
Beastly Gnarly
 
Stan_R80/7's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 984
Having gone (and am still going) though some electrical 'issues', the best thing I can recommend is getting the electric school manual from the Chicago BMW club: http://www.crbmw.com/rokcart

Looking at the R90/6 wiring diagram and the description of the turn signals not working, nor the starter button - both of those are fed from the fuse (15). I would begin by replacing the fuse and cleaning the contacts. Just about every automobile store sells those ceramic fuses (for Volkwagens). Good luck!
Stan_R80/7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 05:28 PM   #8
craydds
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Airhead View Post
I don't want to spend time randomly searching but rather systematically search in a logical order.
I have my Dad's old '74 R90/6, it's a restoration project, going to be my 15 yr. old son's bike. Another schematic that might be helpful - http://www.p-thomas.com/shared/BMW/7...0%20Wiring.pdf . You have the right idea of systematically searching in a logical order. It can be a bit of a headache with the BMW wiring, but not insurmountable. I had a German mechanic friend (Porsches, BMWs, Mercedes) who stated that the German electrics were a nightmare. Disston is right, check and clean all the connections.
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S

craydds screwed with this post 12-07-2012 at 05:39 PM Reason: additions
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2012, 06:52 PM   #9
Texas Airhead OP
n00b
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Oddometer: 3
Problem fixed !!

Since I'm currently unable to test anything with my multimeter, i decided to do the simplest and cheapest option first. I ran down to my local autozone and bought new ceramic fuses even though the old ones looked perfectly fine.

Popped the new fuses in and voila! everything works! A simple $4 fix that I would have overlooked if it wasn't suggested by you guys. Specially since the old fuses looked perfectly fine to me aside from looking old. Even the guy at autozone said they looked fine to him also. Live and learn!

Now i still need to figure out how to get that ground wire back in so the horn button will function. Back to searching the boards and internet i go! It seems a full replacement is rather expensive and the plastic pieces are old and brittle so I worry about it breaking from any form of working on them.


Thanks to everyone for all the help and links to schematics. I greatly appreciate it and i'm more than sure i'll be using them in the future as well.

Now I can finally get back on the bike and do some riding!
__________________
Jared

1974 BMW R90/6
Texas Airhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 02:02 AM   #10
boxerboy81
Stay Horizontal
 
boxerboy81's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Oddometer: 2,073
The old fuses will probably still work if the connections on their ends are cleaned, and the bits they also attach to. You've described not an uncommon scenario and adds evidence to the suggestion of cleaning terminals as you come across them. An hour with the tank off, some electrical cleaner and patience will go a long way to preventing problems in the future.
boxerboy81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 09:55 AM   #11
photomd
Studly Adventurer
 
photomd's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: The Land of Cotton (SC)
Oddometer: 662
I'm a little late to help, but I'll add this: my Guzzi has those fuses and they need attention several times a year. Randomly something will quit working: no blinkers, low voltage to the coils, whatever. I'll pull the cover to the fuse box, rotate the fuses and all is good. Then when I get time I'll pull the fuse, clean the end of the fuse and the holder with emory cloth the put it all back together. I've replaced all the fuses and it still happens. I not sure why it happens and if anyone has a fix, I'd love to hear it.
__________________
1979 V-1000SP
1988 R100RS
1996 R1100RSL
1998 CR250
photomd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2012, 12:01 PM   #12
crazydrummerdude
Wacky Bongo Boy
 
crazydrummerdude's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Oddometer: 7,474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Airhead View Post
Now I can finally get back on the bike and do some riding!
Excellent. Now sure where in Texas you are, but I'm up in Oklahoma City with a few '74 /6s if you ever need a hand on your airheads.
__________________

crazydrummerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014