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Old 11-24-2010, 11:50 AM   #1
B.Curvin OP
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Buell engine rebuild advice, or

always look on the bright side of life?

Maybe it's a good thing the previous owner was ham fisted. I started changing out

the exhaust studs etc as recommended in my other Buell thread. The PO had insisted

on repairing an exhaust leak before we traded bikes. I said leave it alone but

he did it anyway. I found the front cylinder exhaust studs were finger tight.

The rear cylinder only had a nut on one stud and the stud without a nut was

cross threaded. I pulled the head off to get better access to the stud and found this.


Scratches can be felt with a fingernail in the band the red arrow points to.



The piston



The different colors are not a reflection.



So, do I need to strip it all the way down and hone the cylinders and install new pistons?
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:40 PM   #2
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Nothing here, let's move this to The Garage.
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:47 PM   #3
Tosh Togo
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Quote:
So, do I need to strip it all the way down and hone the cylinders and install new pistons?
By the look of those scratches, it more likely will be next oversize. Honing enough to make them go away will probably have the original pistons trying to go sideways with all the extra elbow room. Take both jugs to a machine shop (NOT the dealer!) and see how much they think will need to be taken off to start over.

Pics help, but a machinist with the part in hand is better.

Let's say you your friendly neighborhood machinist miraculously makes things like new again with only .003" material removal.

That's not three thou bigger, it's that much gone from each side of the cylinder.

With that much unhappiness upstairs, you should also have a good look at the bottom end while you're that far into it.

If that shows more problems, a better/cheaper answer would be to find another complete engine.

Or button it back up and sell it.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:15 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Tosh Togo
(NOT the dealer!)

No worries there. I never taken anything to a dealer.

I've got a local cylinder/head guy that is top notch. Reeves in Asheville.

I figured I'd be going up a size. I'll get Reeves input then grab a set of Wisecos.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:18 PM   #5
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90 cubic inches.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:42 PM   #6
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fear not -- Tuber motors were ridden in ways Milwaukee never dreamed of, and you can see wear like that in the cylinders all day long without having any appreciable wear in the lower end of the mill.

1250 kits are reasonable, and you get new pistons and cylinders . . . . . no more work to put together than reassemebling what you've got.

but, yeah your cylinders/pistons need attention -- maybe valve guides/seal, as well.
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:02 PM   #7
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did the PO run it with low oil or someting? or no air filter? those are some NASTY scoring marks in that cylinder, with what looks like oil buildup on the piston.

personally, I'd go for new jugs and pistons, along with redoing the heads.
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:55 PM   #8
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Seriously? The answer is that you measure it and make decisions based on the data. If you are not sure how then take it to a machine shop and ask them to do it. Work with the facts.
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboy
If you are not sure how then take it to a machine shop and ask them to do it.
Thanks
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:43 PM   #10
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Good info on sportster v twins here - www.nrhsperformance.com
the rear cyl always runs hot - nature of the beast
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJW
Good info on sportster v twins here - www.nrhsperformance.com
the rear cyl always runs hot - nature of the beast
This company is an excelent source for sportster and buell engines. I've used their 1250 kit amazing products and customer service is top notch. Talk to Dan he can set you up with a rebore or anything you may want to do.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:29 PM   #12
B.Curvin OP
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Thanks for the tips. I had already spoken with NRHS earlier today. I was

quiet disappointed when I found out their cylinders are cast in china. I'm going to

go with Wiseco pistons and have my local guy rebore my stock cylinders

and possibly redo the heads.
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:50 PM   #13
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make sure they use torque plates when boring cylinders, otherwise they'll be out of round when installed and heads torqued down
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJW
make sure they use torque plates when boring cylinders, otherwise they'll be out of round when installed and heads torqued down


Thank you thank you for that. I've read that torque plates must be used with Harley

cylinders in American Iron and such but had not thought about it since I rarely

(never before actually) work on Harleys. I'm sure Reeves knows this and has them, or would

send me to someone that does but it's nice to have the info so I know to ask.
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:00 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by fatboy
Seriously? The answer is that you measure it and make decisions based on the data. If you are not sure how then take it to a machine shop and ask them to do it. Work with the facts.
This. Hard to judge the scoring from the image, the cross hatch honing pattern is still visible all the way up to and between the scoring. I'd offer an overheating event (like stuck in traffic) was the culprit. It wasn't normal wear, as witnessed by the cross hatch still being visible.
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