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Old 12-08-2012, 08:53 PM   #16
dave186
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I have a set of these and they work well. I have even used an impact gun on them a couple times.

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...EXTRACTOR-SET/
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:00 PM   #17
trc.rhubarb
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Torx has saved me every time. Gotta be a way to get pressure in there even if you need to wedge it with a prybar.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
drill it out with a bit slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. the head will spin off, removing the pressure from the shoulder of the head. then remove part, and remove remnants of screw. or use a left handed bit. either way if it's seized from overtightening, once you remove the head, it will be simple.
I've used this method and it worked for me each time I used it.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #19
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Hey Richard, so the vice grips won't grip.

I try to cut a small slot across the top. Try a file first, don't want any abrasive near the cams. Then tap it with a punch. Tap it at 180 deg along the edge. I've done this several times with drain plugs. If it doesn't work, then at least this may loosen it up.

Those bolts on the cam bridge are very hard, but they can be drilled with a cobalt bit. You can drill the head off, pull the bridge and then the shank will be sticking up and it will be loose enough to spin out with fingers. You may have to lower the engine to get a straight shot at it.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:54 PM   #20
SidewaysCarolina
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i had to weld a allen wrench to a bolt today on a ducati streetfighter. Ive used most of the extraction tools out there and
for my cave man brain the best solution seems to always be weld the bolt to a socket/allen wrench. just my 2 cents
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:34 AM   #21
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Side note

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
Can you post a good sharp pic of it?
How ya doing sir? I hope well.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:51 AM   #22
kantuckid
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So it's in a recess with no side access for vise grips nor whacking room above for driving anything tightly into the former hex hole? I like a very small torch flame on what you see as long as the side material will take it. There are materials that can be packed "mud like" to retard heat damage on the adjoining surfaces-if possible as I assume alu around the bolt head?
Google &/or sophisticated welding supplier can help here with material protection stuff. Whats the other choice if the short Mac tools shown above(my thinking too) cannot be driven into it? Drill or heat.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
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You may have to lower the engine to get a straight shot at it.
Dave;
Thanks for the suggestions
Is it possible to take out just the front engine mounting bolts and rotate the engine so that the rear cylinder is in a vertical position?
Richard
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:09 AM   #24
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A big thank you to everyone and their suggestions
The problem is on a 990 KTM
The rear cylinder cam bridge bolt that's at the right rear position
Here are some photographs:

I had to have a easy out modified to fit the space available. I wasn't able to drive the tip into the bolt with a hammer, hence it didn't grab the bolt head


Yesterday I took a T-30 Torx and JB welded it into the socket head. Let it cure overnight. I plan on using a heat gun to warm up the cam bridge later today and attempt to loosen the bolt. I'll report back with the outcome.


Here are some views of the space I have to work with




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Old 12-09-2012, 11:03 AM   #25
stainlesscycle
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acording to last picture:

cut a notch at 7 o'clock. hit with small chisel pointing right. you only need to get 1/4 turn to loosen it.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:01 PM   #26
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JB failure

Thought I'd put a wrench on the Torx before heating the whole cylinder head and with very little torque the bit separated from the bolt.
I cleaned the bolt & bit with alcohol. Maybe I need to use carb cleaner or acetone.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:15 PM   #27
griffo1962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
acording to last picture:

cut a notch at 7 o'clock. hit with small chisel pointing right. you only need to get 1/4 turn to loosen it.

agreed.

there's no way JB weld is ever going to be strong enough....... if the above fails I think that is going to have to come out of the frame
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:09 PM   #28
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Wow, that's quite the deal. Good job with the pictures.

How tight are those bolts???

They look hardened too. I just had my cams out of my DL, cam caps use bolts with 8mm socket to remove. They are only supposed to be tightened to 10 nm. How the #$@ did the bolt get so tight?

I say use a dremel and use a cutting wheel to put a slot in the top of the bolt and use a long flat blade to remove the overtightened bolt. Or grind the head off and then remove the cap and use a vice grip to remove the stud.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:16 PM   #29
GreaseMonkey
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I'm not saying 100% that this will work, but desperate times call for desperate measures.

since you already have this welded up:


And it is too long to grab, just start grinding it down until the tip will just fit inside the hex opening, and then tap it in firmly with a small hammer. Then put your wrench on it and try again.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:23 PM   #30
GreaseMonkey
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Also, looking at it again do you have room to clip on a small pair (4WR) of vise grips?
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