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Old 07-21-2011, 08:08 AM   #1
The Blue Kazoo OP
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Morocco Rocks!

Making the step from lurker to poster, so bear with me if I screw up!



Trip: 10 days in Morocco.
Who? 10 Irish guys on a variety of rides.
Why? Just survived the coldest winter in Ireland since records began (still not really winter compared to where some of you guys live I know). Recession, recession, depression! Need to escape all the blues floating around for the last couple of years.
When? It happened in April/May this year, yep I'm damn slow at getting this report up.

Brief outline of trip: ship bikes by truck to Malaga in Spain, fly out a week later collect said bikes and ride into North Africa during its newly founded revolutionary streak, what could go wrong?!

New rubbers! Anakee 2's front and rear.

Some new protection: barkbuster hanguards, givi crashbars, touratech sumpguard.

My bike, a blue Transalp XL700, the rest of the guys are riding a mix of ktm990, GSA, Africa Twins, Varaderos & VStrom.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:49 AM   #2
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Okay, pics seem to loading fine so far.

21 April 2011
So with all the preparation complete and the bikes loaded onto a truck we sit back and watch the clock slowly inch its way forward. At least I got a couple of days to kill in work to make the time go a bit quicker. The week is spent reviewing all the sites I can find with information on Morocco, routes, food, petrol prices, weather, anything and everything. All the time trying hard to ignore all the political unrest sweeping across North Africa, will it effect Morocco, Christ I hope not.



28 April, 2 days to departure.
My last shift in work for almost 3 weeks, can't wait to hit the road. My wife rings me as I leave work: "Hey have you seen the news?" she asks, "ehh No" I say "Why?". Check out Skynews she says, there's been a suicide bomb in Marrakesh, some tourists killed. Get outta here, you just winding me up. But no she wasn't, the dreaded bomb + tourist combination had struck again just 48 hours before I left for Morocco, what F**king luck!



29 April
Frantic texts and phone calls to see if anyone is backing out. All the forums I check are advising against any travel to anywhere in North Africa at this point. But the overwhelming opinion among us is, well we will just scoot round the troubled areas, this ain't going to spoil our damn holiday.
In the words of a wise man from Southpark, "Screw you guys!" The trip is on.

Saturday 30 April.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Blue Kazoo View Post
Making the step from lurker to poster, so bear with me if I screw up!
My bike, a blue Transalp XL700, the rest of the guys are riding a mix of ktm990, GSA, Africa Twins, Varaderos & VStrom.
That is a great looking bike, I spent some time in Ireland a few years ago and I liked it a lot. I bet you guys will have a blast on your trip :) ;) (no pun intended) Post lots of pics!
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:26 PM   #4
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One of my favorite places...looking forward to pictures..
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:39 PM   #5
The Blue Kazoo OP
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Saturday 30 April.
Arrive in Malaga and take a short taxi ride out to where the bikes have been unloaded awaiting our arrival.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 029[/IMG]

It was great to arrive fresh and ready to get moving towards Africa within a couple of hours of landing in Spain. If time weren't a problem then it would have been lovely to ride the bikes down from Ireland through France and Spain. But vacation time is precious and the extra few days this allows us to spend in Morocco is well worth the effort.

So time to get going.

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

Waiting on the ferry in Algeciras and the short bumpy journey across the Straits of Gibraltar.
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

We arrived on the continent of Africa in the late evening and still had to clear customs and hit the road south to find somewhere to plonk our weary asses for night and track down some beers too (harder than we thought).

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

Getting through customs proved way easier than I had imagined and we were soon out onto the highway heading for the coastal town of Asilah. Darkness came quickly and we rode the last hour at night on a highway littered with stray dogs, a cow, some people and the odd clapped out car on the hard shoulder which would have no lights on of course.

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
We found a dodgy looking hotel down some alleyway that reminded me of a street in the movie from Black Hawk Down. I hope our bikes are still outside in the morning.
Once settled we went looking for food, and of course the usual "guide" would appear and tell us where the best food is and show us the sights along the way, how could we say no?

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

We were shown the old medina on the way to the restaurant by our dope smoking guide. I don't have any pics of the grub because it was too upsetting for us starving Irishmen to take pics and try to eat at the same time. Just go to your local pond, river, lake or sea and catch the skinniest, anorexic, boniest fish you can and fry the shit out of it, then do the same to its siblings and add some salad, that was supper!

Total mileage (KMs) for Day 1, 243km.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:31 PM   #6
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Day 2. 1st May.

Awoke after a a pretty good sleep considering we'd just spent the night in Fawlty Towers of Asilah. I mean this place was dire even by Moroccan standards, camping would have been a step up from this place.
The first room we were offered had parts of the plasterboard from the ceiling on the mattress and the leaky roof was still actively dripping onto the bed as we haggled over the rooms condition, it was actually funny that they thought nothing of offering us the deluxe room!!
No breakfast included but I think that was a good thing. To all of our surprise the bikes were untouched and as we left them on the street outside the hotel, some guys didn't bring any locks so I think a restless sleep was had by one or two.
We mounted up and hit the road, hoping to find breakfast in a garage or town within the hour. What were we thinking!

[IMG]DSC04169[/IMG]

[IMG]DSC04174[/IMG]

We spent a good four hours on the road before we found a place to get a coffee for breakfast which was now lunch.

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

After a brief stop in a town I can't remember the name of we started to gain height and climb into the mountains and with that the rain started. I mean we just left THE wettest place in northwest Europe for Africa and it bleeding raining, arrrgh.
The road deteriorated to gravel and mega potholes which kept me awake.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

The rest of day 2 went by like: we rode higher, the rain fell heavier, the fog decended, we got lost, the gps got lost, the rain fell heavier, I cursed disconnecting my heated grips because I was going to Africa! Night time came and we still had nowhere to call home for the night. With tempers brewing and cold tired bodies we decided to plough on to Fes, another 100km through the night on unlit mountain roads. Rule number one of riding in Africa broken for the second night running.

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
By the end of day 2 we have covered the hardest 400km of my life yet on a bike, tired and hungry, lost for half of it, miserable with the cold and driving rain and exhausted from concentrating so hard riding in the dark on roads with monster holes in them, amazed no one came off that day.
We're getting our adventure the hard way.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:48 PM   #7
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Good stuff and the 'Alp looks great. I don't blame you for getting the bikes sent over; time is precious and there's things to see! Needless to say I'm subscribed.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:51 PM   #8
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Day 3, May 2nd.
340km from Fes to Er-rachidia.
Today we awoke to sunshine, but by the time I hopped into and out of the shower it was raining. Got dressed and went down for breakfast, it was sunny again. We all meet to discuss today's route to make sure we don't lose anyone and that we all agree we need to keep heading south and hopefully find a clear patch of atmosphere where some sun can fry our palefaces. I'm sorry to say I saw absolutely nothing of Fes except the road in during darkness and the road out during rain. But at least I have an excuse to return.
Today my GPS decided it didn't like working in Morocco, I think it was protesting against all the rain, damn you Zumo 550!

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG] Having trouble with my givi tanklock tankbag which doesn't fit properly so I've had to use it as a tailpack on the rear seat. A real pain and a lesson to test out all equipment before a big trip, lesson learned.

[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
We stopped here as the rain had decided to take a break as well so may as well set our times to our atmospheric buddy.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Iphone 071[/IMG]
When we stopped we were surrounded by kids pestering us for cadeaux! One of our group (Mr. Vstrom) had brought pencils and pens to give the children, he had about 10, which of course means that 11 kids turn up. One of the teenager kids starts beating the head off one of the "littler" kids (about 5 or 6yr). Bloody hell there only poxy pens, what do ya do? Slap the bully, give the little kid extra money like compensation or something for getting beaten up? No worries, while we are discussing what to do an adult male steps in and beats the head off the bully, but he still gets away with the little kids pen, really annoyed me and turned me off the whole idea of hand outs for the rest of the trip.

We left this scene pretty quickly after all the hullabaloo.
From here on out we could feel the warm drier air from the desert blowing in our direction, and the skies were ever so slowly starting to clear, maybe we were in Morocco after all.
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
The first real landscape change, we are entering dry rocky mountains before dropping down to desert hopefully!
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:39 PM   #9
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Looking forward to the rest
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:55 PM   #10
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more please

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Old 07-22-2011, 10:27 AM   #11
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Day 4,

After three days of terrible weather we awoke to this:
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

About time, was beginning to think the Moroccan weather had gone native (Irish) on us and was just going to piss on our parade for the next fortnight. Still not convinced on the whole global warming debate, maybe global relocation of weather systems but not simply warming. But that debate is for another day.

Our hotel/auberge was basic but comfy and included a security guard for our bikes outside all night, dinner and brekkie and a pool which was nice to freshen up in before getting into our riding gear for the day.
Just then we saw this Moroccan ADVrider:
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Iphone 090[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 093[/IMG]

But before long it was time to load up and enjoy our first day under clear blue skies and empty roads, spirits were high and confidence even higher!
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

Today's ride is from Er-rachida to Merzouga and is the shortest one yet at only 136km.
I tried to stop more frequently today as everywhere I looked was amazing scenery, that's the only down side of riding with a group, you tend to push on full steam ahead even when there's no particular need.

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
We stopped at this spot which had an nice oasis feel about ( OK if you come from Manchester, the words nice and oasis never mix, ever! but here its fine )
We spotted a Portuguese couple on a Yamaha tenere XT660. As usual by now I've forgotten your names, but if your on here you may recognise your photo, hope your trip went well dudes.
[IMG]DSC04229[/IMG]
After our stop we set off again at a moderate pace enjoying the stunning rocky dry desert landscape. Now if anyone had asked me what I imagined Morocco to be like before the trip I would have said its sandy of course. But how wrong was I and Morocco was going to teach me the hard way, its rocky, Morocco rocks, literally.
Some more road shots before our and my confidence got the better of me.
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

Lesson number X, um I forget. Riding in a group is great because there's always someone else who will capture a picture of you on your bike. Riding in a group can be shit coz when ya dump it, there's always someone there to take a picture of you and your bike with its trousers down!
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
Looking good even if I do say so myself!
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
Shit, where did that rock come from! Bonk and down I go.
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
And one broken pannier and bruised ego, not bad really. Thought I had done some damage to the tank but "tankfully" didn't. The lads were great, one of them took my broken pannier on his back seat for the remainder of the day, I inched my way back to tarmac to lick my wounds!

[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
Managed to readjust my luggage and put the pannier on my backseat until we reach our auberge where I hope and pray to be able to sort it out, have another week to go and might have to abandon this pannier already, F**K plastic luggage!
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
Roadside discussion to decide who wants to take the offroad short cut to Merzouga? I'm too pissed at breaking my pannier that I choose the longer road option for now, I've nowhere else to strap my good pannier if that takes a fall too.
[IMG]Morocco trip[/IMG]
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
Our accommodation for tonight is Palais Des Dunes in Merzouga. First I got to try and fix my luggage and then out to the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi to watch the sunset beside a smelly camel.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:50 PM   #12
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What a fun RR!

The pics are great, and it looks like you guys are having the time of your lives. I am TOO jealous.

Speaking of jealous - something that occurred to me; you and your bikes LOOK too affluent. You have to be a crime magnet. Shiny, new, colorful, clean, etc. And you park them outside in an apparent ghetto, AND THEY ARE THERE UNTOUCHED IN THE MORNING! WTF?

Crap. If that were me, my bike would have been disappeared from a McDonald's parking lot faster than I could eat a cheeseburger.

Be careful, have fun, and keep posting!
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:06 AM   #13
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Time for a more pics.

So after arriving at the Palais Des Dunes I set about trying to fix my broken pannier. The locking mechanism on the givi pannier had broken during the earlier fall. The box itself was still in good condition and the pannier rack was only slightly bent. I was able to refit it but it wasn't secure enough so I used two small nylon straps and a couple of large cable ties to secure it to the rack. It looks strong enough to hold but certainly won't take another hit!

Once happy with my work I grabbed a beer with the guys and looked forward to our camel ride out to the famous dunes.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

The camel was as camels go, smelly and uncomfortable, give me my bike any day, no more complaining about numb bums after this and my bike doesn't have fleas!

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco camel ride.[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

After watching the sunset from the top of the dunes we headed back to the auberge to have a traditional meal which is just like Irish stew except it comes in a fancy bowl, and listen to some drumming.


Day 5.
Today we rode from the dunes at Erg Chebbi to Zagora, 336km on the desert highway.
But first we had to take some bike pics at the dunes.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:36 AM   #14
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Wicked

And more.

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

Note the two straps holding my left pannier on!
[IMG]What's that coming over the hill, is it a Monster?[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

After getting too hot and sweaty from the desert heat we had to get going towards Zagora and hopefully the wind might cool us slightly on the way.

All along the road in the middle of absolutely nowhere we would see little kids waving us down, hoping to sell us fossils or minerals or just to beg. It was amazing, you would stop in what looked like a landscape from Mars and admire the view, take some photos and then look around and some kids would be running towards you from behind a rock to sell you even smaller rocks! I used to wait and see what they were selling but after the zillionth time I would just time it nicely that as they just got up to me I'd open the throttle and be gone.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Bike Trip[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
The roads in this part of Morocco are a dream come true for bikers, no traffic, spectacular views and no real hurry to get anywhere so just ride as you please all day. Feel like opening her up full throttle, go ahead, feel like slowing down to take some pictures on the go, no problem, want to wreck your bike going off road be my guest! The choice is yours.
It was a real gem of a day and we all cruised into Zagora at different times, met at a hotel and unloaded the beasts again.
Zagora is a bit of a landmark in this part of Morocco and was an important historical meeting point for camel trains and nomads crossing the Sahara desert, so like many such meeting points a town grew up around it it over the centuries.
And of course we had to get the obligatory photo beside the famous sign for Timbuktu.

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 161[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
Unfortunately the original sign is long gone, taken down by the authorities but later a replacement was re-installed by the local merchants looking to cash in on the tourists that it attracts.
Whilst at the sign on the following morning before we left Zagora a mechanic arrived up to us on his moped and invited us to come visit his dakar garage, and so we did.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]
After that all I can say about Zagora is that it is hot! And travel further south is not really necessary as within 90km you reach the dodgy border area with Algeria and it is heavily patrolled so not fun in my book.

So Day 6, Zagora to Boumalne Dades, 274km.
The group split again today with the more experienced riders taking a 100km off road route in the afternoon and the rest of us continuing by road to our destination.

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 163[/IMG]

My biking buddy for the trip, Michael. Its always good to stretch the legs whenever possible.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]DSC04388[/IMG]

[IMG]DSC04387[/IMG]
This is where the group split for the off road section. I was disappointed not to be going but I just don't have the skill to keep with the off-roaders, but I'll be back to tackle it in the future, promise
[IMG]DSC04386[/IMG]

But I wasn't disappointed with the rest of the day's riding, we passed some stunning landscapes and high desert passes.
[IMG]Morocco road view.[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

We arrived in a peach of a hotel in the late evening and decided that we'd spend two nights here to relax and do some riding tomorrow without luggage.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 175[/IMG]



My room for the next two nights, I was impressed, it was like a mixed theme hotel, half Africa/half Flintstones!
[IMG]Morocco Iphone 172[/IMG]

[IMG]Morocco Iphone 171[/IMG]

And the view out my balcony the next morning was worth all the bad sleeps up to now.
[IMG]Morocco Motorbike tour[/IMG]

More pics to post later
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:37 PM   #15
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Great hope to get down there myself at the back end
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