|12-12-2012, 07:56 PM||#1|
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Denver, CO
How to REPAIR/REPLACE a VARIO CASE BOTTOM or LOCKING MECHANISM (A Pictorial)
How to repair and/or replace a Vario Case Bottom or Locking Mechanism.
The repairs pictured below were on a 06 R1200GS...but probably applies to ALL YEARS with 1200GS VARIOS. They MAY NOT apply to the 2013+ WC Vario versions.
It may apply, as a general guide for the F650GS and F800GS, as well. (Parts for these models are no doubt different than the 1200 used here)
Each year countless inmates post that they have:
1. Broken a mounting tab(s) off of their Varios and wonder if they can fix them. No not really. Some have tried. Some has 'cluged' solutions...but NO they can't really be 'fixed'.
2. Broken the Locking mechanism that fits over the mushroom bolt. This is usually due to an unintended 'nap and/or improper adjustment of the Mushroom bolt**
** (see PDF file at end of pictorial for proper mushroom bolt adjustment)
Breaking the tabs usually results in purchasing a new CASE BOTTOM.
But...replacing the damaged CASE BOTTOM with a NEW one involves TRANSFERRING the LOCKING MECHANISM to the new case. (You didn't damage both did you?)
And since the locking mechanism IS virtually UNREPAIRABLE...you have to purchase a NEW LOCKING MECHANISM. The pictorial below will show you how to install a NEW one and TRANSFER an existing one.
Here are the parts:
# Part Number Description lb Qty Each
01 46 54 7 677 394 CASE BOTTOM, RIGHT 3.66 1 $114.95
01 71 60 7 692 175 CASE BOTTOM, LEFT 4.01 1 $140.95
06 51 25 7 687 029 TOPCASE LOCKING MECHANISM, LEFT 0.42 1 $64.61
06 71 60 7 687 030 TOPCASE LOCKING MECHANISM, RIGHT 0.42 1 $64.61
Here's a picture of the Locking Mechanism Packaging and Parts inside:
Both of these replacement parts are SIDE specific...so be sure to order the correct one!
CASE BOTTOM REPLACEMENT: (Example: Right Hand side)
The Case Bottom is detached from the rest of the case by simply removing six (6) TORX (T30) screws on the BOTTOM of the case towards the inside of the bike.
The location of the screws is shown with the blue tape.
Note: The locking mechanism has already been removed from the case.
Place the case expander in EITHER the COMPRESSED or EXPANDED position and leave it in that position until the case bottom is replaced.
Forcefully and carefully pry apart the bottom of the case from the remaining case. You may find it necessary to insert a flat dull instrument (such as a table knife) around the perimeter of the case bottom to assist in freeing the case bottom. Be sure your instrument is BETWEEN the case bottom seal and the plastic of the remainder of the case and that you do NOT cut through the case bottom seal. The seal is stapled to the edge of the case bottom and is shown in the photo below.
When removed you will have this part separated from the rest of the case:
Step 5. Gear mechanism cleaning.
With the case bottom removed, take this opportunity to gently remove any dust or grim that has accumulated on the gearing mechanism on the remainder of the case.
DO NOT remove/adjust or otherwise 'fool with' the gearing mechanism and do not move the adjusting lever during this cleaning.
Soapy water will do the trick. Make sure the mechanism is completely dried before re-assembly.
(No pictures shown).
Step 6. Case Re-assembly
When you have completed the installation of the NEW locking mechanism or TRANSFER of the existing locking mechanism to the NEW case bottom (detailed instructions below)...you're ready to re-assemble the case bottom.
Simply reverse the steps above to secure the NEW case bottom back to the remainder of the case.
REMOVAL OF THE LOCKING MECHANISM
Step 1. Damaged parts inspection
Before you begin to remove the damaged locking mechanism you'll find it helpful with the re-assembly to carefully examine how the damaged parts appear before you take them apart.
Compare your damaged case to your undamaged case.
You might also find it helpful with assembly to TAKE PICTURES of
1. the damaged parts as they appear IN the case, and
2. the damaged parts as you carefully REMOVE them from the case.
Don't count on your memory to serve you well. These parts FIT in only ONE way. (Note: You've been warned).
Here's an example of the damage to the 'cap area' which mounts to the MUSHROOM BOLT.
Look closely at the damaged area. In this instance it appears that only a critical piece of the locking mechanism is missing. (Yes...probably the one in your hand...)
Note the relative positions of these parts...particularly the silver rounded rod at the bottom of the picture.
Most of the remaining parts appear undamaged. BUT...you had to purchase the entire kit as they don't sell these individual pieces.
Step 2. Removal of the Cover Plate
The removal of the cover plate simply involves the removal of 4 small Philips head screws noted by the blue tape:
After removing the cover plate you'll see the INDICATOR PLATE with the GREEN stripe. Gently lift this plate upwards and you'll see that it's got a small SPRING under it...resting on a post of the case.
Note that the factory used HEAVY GREASE towards the LID end to temporarily hold this spring in position. It's quite fiddly and will move around if you don't somehow secure it.
Tip: I secured this spring in place by putting a 1/4" square of double sided mounting foam under the spring nearest the lid where the factory put the grease.
Step 3. Removal of the Mechanism mounting bolts
The Mechanism mounting bolts are accessed from INSIDE the case.
Remove the four (4) 10 mm nylock nuts and washers to release this mechanism from the case.
Gently PUSH the unbolted mechanism towards the OUTSIDE of the case.
Note the RED Opening/Closing position SLEEVE (round) and the mating RED shaft from the locking mechanism.
Step 4. Removal of the Mechanism from the case.
After you've removed the internal nuts...the mechanism will freely slide towards the outside of the case.
Carefully examine (and photograph???) your mechanism and the relative positions of:
1. the parts of the mechanism...paying particular attention to their position and orientation.
2. the position of the INDICATOR PLATE (green strip on reverse side). Note the 'half round' receptacle? This is where the spring is situated on the re-assembly.
3. the coiled spring with barbed ends to the left of the 'half round' receptacle. It's coiled to the "inside" of the mechanism and is position on the LEFT side of of the receptacle.
4. the silver rod running through the coiled spring. The ends of the rod sit in indentations flush with and just above the 2 top mounting bolts.
4. the odd shaped 'lever' and it's associated small spring towards the left hand side, as shown in the picture
5. the round YELLOW tube with the stainless rod passing through it from the outside of the mechanism.
This picture shows the rod passing through the YELLOW tube. This is where I placed electrical tape...noted below.
Tip: Secure this rod in place by taping over the ends of the exposed openings with electrical tape.
This will prevent the rod from moving out of it's proper position during reassembly.
IMPORTANT: All of these fiddly parts MUST be in their EXACT positions for re-assembly.
INSTALLATION OF THE NEW OR RELOCATED LOCKING MECHANISM
While logic would lead you to believe that the INSTALLATION process is simply the reversal of the REMOVAL process...INSTALLATION requires a number of caveats and techniques that may NOT be obvious to the untrained professional.
Step 1. Understanding how the RED Opening/Closing Rod works
Absolutely CRITICAL to the installation process is understanding HOW this rod works and how to re-assemble it.
The rod mechanism is comprised of two (2) pieces: a round shaped rod and it's corresponding quad shaped shaft (90 degrees between shafts). Examine the Parts provided picture above for a close up of each of these parts.
When properly re-assembled this 2-piece mechanism has only 2 positions...OPEN and CLOSED.
Here is the shaft piece (not mated to the round piece) but showing it's proper position in the OPEN position.
Note that there is clearance for the RED plate (part of the handle) to ROTATE when the CAM shaped shaft is in this position.
Unfortunately, in the OPEN position this rod puts pressure on the small spring and creates a VERY UNSTABLE condition if you try to re-assemble it in the OPEN position.
Tip: DO NOT position this rod in the OPEN position.
Position the shaft in the CLOSED position as shown for re-assembly...90 degrees from the OPEN position.
Note in this position there is NO CLEARANCE for the RED plate of the handle to ROTATE thus preventing the handle from lifting and becoming detached from the mushroom bolt.
Further...there is no tension on the spring which makes the whole locking mechansim MUCH MORE STABLE to re-assemble. Trust me on this one!
Again, please note the silver rod and it's coiled spring properly situated in it's slot.
Step 2. The MAGIC balancing act begins.
(Here's where you MIGHT be tempted to give up and spend $487 for a completely new case...don't give up quite yet, though).
Re-assembly approach - You have to LOOSELY assemble several parts. This means you're trying to get everything below generally aligned and position in your hand so that you can insert the locking mechanism into the case at the bolted positions.
1. The cover plate to the latching mechansim.
Do this by inserting the latching mechanism from beneath the cover plate carefully inserting the RED tab'ed end first and then slightly rotating the handle into place.
2. Loosely inserting the INDICATOR PLATE below the cover plate and above the latching mechanism.
Do this properly by noting that there is only ONE place for this plate to fit. There are guides in the cover plate that allow this plate to slide (spring mounted) back and forth.
3. Inserting the RED shafted rod through the hole in the case making sure that its assembled orientation is in the CLOSED position...shown above.
4. Just to the LEFT of the RED rod...you'll note a small black U shaped piece with a SLOT in it. This is where the end of the barbed spring (silver shaft piece) is properly located.
It's about 45 degrees to the lower right (1/4" away) of the large spring.
NOW IT'S CRUNCH TIME...
When you have the cover plate, locking mechanism and RED shaft loosely assembled in your hand...you need to accomplish these 4 things simultaneously as you insert the bolt heads into the case:
1. Maintain the proper alignment of the INDICATOR PLATE in the cover plate. Hint: hold the indicator plate from below to the cover plate.
2. Get the 'coiled spring' into that small U-shaped slot. You have to eye-ball this as your inserting the bolts into the case.
3. Align the latching mechanism ONTO the RED shaped shaft in the CLOSED position.
4. Get the LARGE spring located into the ROUNDED shape on the indicator plate.
When you GET all of these items properly seated and the bolts inserted into the case...maintain horizontal and downward pressure on the cover plate toward the inside of the case (remember it's LARGE spring loaded).
Now...insert the WASHER and NYLOCKS on each of the four (4) bolt heads. While again...maintaining pressure...TIGHTEN the NYLOCKS.
Now...maintain DOWNWARD pressure on the cover plate and slide it into it's final position on the case.
If you've done this properly to this point...everything will EASILY fit back into place. There should be NO NEED to force anything.
Now...insert the 4 Philips screws that secure the cover plate to the case.
Now...TEST the operation of the RED OPEN/CLOSE mechanism?
Works fine? GREAT!
Doesn't work? You may have to remove the cover plate screws...undue the NYLOCKS and remove the mechanism from the case.
Carefully examine ALL the parts to insure that they fit the way they are supposed to.
Repeat this 3-4 times until you SUCCEED...you will in the end...NO losey case locking mechanism is intended to 'get the best' of ANY of us.
Congrats...you just saved $487 to spend on more farkles. Sweet.
As promised: do THIS correctly and you may NOT have to do the above!
LaurelPerryOnLand screwed with this post 04-12-2013 at 07:10 AM
|12-15-2012, 06:32 PM||#4|
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Trou de Cou, Tick's Ass
Wow! I never realize there were that many parts in a vario case. I'm surprised they don't cost more than the simpler BMW metal cases.
If its got tits or wheels, it'll give you problems!
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