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Old 12-20-2012, 04:58 PM   #16
barko1
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Like someone else said might try seeing if it starts on starter fluid. Besides the pilot a bad float level can cause problems, any gas getting into the crankcase or airbox? If you ship and need a place to stash it I'm just an hour North of the border and have space.
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barko1 screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 09:54 PM
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:53 PM   #17
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I will second the recommendation to check the little fuel filter in the carb's fuel inlet pipe.

"needed to hold throttle open to start" sounds to me like fuel delivery.

Good luck & let us know how it goes.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:24 PM   #18
eakins
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jim sent this email back

Bill,
Thanks again for getting back to me. Unfortunately, we redid the carb cleaning today (very thoroughly) and the bike still did not start. I am quite certain now that it's an electrical issue.
The dealer isn't optimistic about me leaving the bike with him and sending electricial components down to Zacatecas. He isn't familiar with DR's and can't promise me a running bike. What are your thoughts?
Jim
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:26 PM   #19
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i recomended he spray starter fluid into the carb to verify 100% it's not fuel.
he has spark so cdi is good? timing chain jumped maybe???
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrzyguy View Post
The bike has 6,000 miles on it, good compression, and proper valve clearance.
Since your bike is almost new, we can skip some issues.

We don't know how much you know, so I don't mean to talk down to you or your mechanic.

Did you check this filter? More pics in the link.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=52



Do you have a stock tank and vacuum petcock? If so, take the fuel line off at the carb. With the engine off and the petcock on 'ON', no fuel should flow. On 'RES" no fuel should flow. On 'PRI' there should be a good fuel flow.

Posting pics for a visual, since we can't be there, guessing on a stock, vacuum petcock. The stock petcock can also be used on the IMS fuel tank and on the new Acerbis.

When 'ON' no fuel should flow: (engine off) Note: this is NOT 'RES', it is 'ON'.


There should be a good stream of fuel when switched to PRI, engine on or off. Since you had the carb off, your float bowl is empty. You have to put it on 'PRI' in order to fill the float bowl so the bike can start.


When switched to 'RES' there should be no fuel flow with engine off.


This is the pilot jet, a very small orfice, did you look through it?
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 11:49 PM
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:57 PM   #21
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Start

What was happening when this started? Did it start up after a fall? After several tanks of gas? Your bike has so few miles I'm with the others in exhausting the old "fire, air, fuel" tests. I know it can be hard to find starter fluid in developing countries but a little gas in a windex bottle will do when misted into the carb intake. Could your choke setting have been tampered with? With the spark plug out does it show spark when you have someone kick it over/hit the button? Good luck, i've lived in Africa and know how frustrating it can be when off the grid and working through different languages.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:43 AM   #22
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An engine needs: Spark, Compressed Air, Proper Timing, Proper Fuel Delivery.

I highly doubt compression on a newish bike. You said timing was checked to be good. You said spark was checked to be good. I would't expect any of those to be a problem on a newer DR, anyway.

You definitely should check and bypass the safety cutoff switches - most notably the kickstand switch. That would be the only electrical problem I would suspect.

I bet your problem is Fuel Delivery. Check the petcock filter, your added inline filter, and mini-carb inlet filter. Do as ERS-07 said and check that fuel is flowing, and that your float bowl is filling. As long as your carb has been cleaned well, it should be one of those problems. Check the choke operation. Speaking of which, does the choke have any affect on starting at all? Try to start it with the tank open. Is the tank at least 1/2 full? Is the battery fully charged? My DR once cranked so slow that it wouldn't start.

Keep us updated!
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:58 AM   #23
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Its not just spark, its when the spark happens..

The DR is pretty simple. It has a carb and spark. It needs fuel, air, and spark at the right time. The recommendation to spray fuel or starting fluid into the carb is a very good one- the bike should at least try to start doing this. I dont really see the spark being off in time as thats controlled by the CDI, and with so few miles, I cant see anything being wrong with it.

Its probably fuel related.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:45 AM   #24
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Well, at least he isn't stuck in Fairbanks, AK. I wish I was stuck in Mexico about now. It was 7 degrees here this morning.


I'd figure the DR would be the easiest bike to repair out in the middle of nowhere. Unless it's a CDI or something. Is there spark? What does the plug look like?
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:27 AM   #25
maynard911
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From your original problem description the most likely cause is that the float needle is not closing off fuel flow to the carb bowl. With the carb off and the bowl removed hook it up to the tank and manually raise the float. The flow should stop completely.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:29 AM   #26
miguelito
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Electronics guy in Zacatecas

If you think it's the electronics, there's a little hole in the wall shop in Guadalupe, about 5 miles east of Zacatecas that is good with that. I had them rewind a stator a couple of years ago, and he was good at diagnosing electrical issues. I don't have the address, but if you travel east from Zac, take the exit for Guadalupe. At the bottom of the ramp, turn left, (north), under the underpass. The shop is within about 5 blocks on the right hand side.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSNorCal View Post
It wouldn't be the first time that someone cleaned a carb and didn't actually get it clean.
Indeed.
Quote:
Pull the pilot jet and inspect all the holes. Clean them with a very fine strand of wire and compressed air.
I would just replace it.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
I bet your problem is Fuel Delivery. Check the petcock filter, your added inline filter, and mini-carb inlet filter. Do as ERS-07 said and check that fuel is flowing, and that your float bowl is filling.
A fuel level tool connected to the bowl drain will give the most precise information, but a piece of clear hose will at least give a rough idea. Starting from empty, the fuel level should rise rapidly when the petcock is turned to the PRI position. It should stop rising suddenly when the float valve cuts off the flow (which should be at 1.5mm 1.0mm {.059" .039"} above the bowl gasket surface), and should not creep higher than that over time.
Quote:
Check the choke operation. Speaking of which, does the choke have any affect on starting at all?
Since the BST40 does not have a choke, it's not likely. All joking aside, checking the cold start enrichment circuit's effect is of course one of the first things a person should do in a situation like this.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
You definitely should check and bypass the safety cutoff switches - most notably the kickstand switch. That would be the only electrical problem I would suspect.

I bet your problem is Fuel Delivery. Check the petcock filter, your added inline filter, and mini-carb inlet filter. Do as ERS-07 said and check that fuel is flowing, and that your float bowl is filling. As long as your carb has been cleaned well, it should be one of those problems. Check the choke operation. Speaking of which, does the choke have any affect on starting at all? Try to start it with the tank open. Is the tank at least 1/2 full? Is the battery fully charged? My DR once cranked so slow that it wouldn't start.

Keep us updated!
The above is ALL good advice. Double check all listed. (Also, pull petcock out of tank ... clean petcock filter screen, flush out tank. Any crud in there?)

Safety Cut-Outs
check the wire that goes into your clutch lever assembly. All good?
WD40 sprayed into ON/OFF switch can't hurt ... and of course the kick stand cut out too. Clean grease and crap off, check connection best you can.

Good luck, hope you will keep up up dated on this.

!Que le via bien!
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:03 PM   #30
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I'm in ca, bike is still in zacatecas

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Originally Posted by SikDMAX View Post
Any update buddy?
Sorry to take so long responding. I'm back in CA...flew back and left the bike in Zacatecas. I'm gathering parts and info to send down to my tech. I'll return to continue my tour as soon as my bike is running properly.

Just this morning, I emailed a request to the tech asking him to reset the valves and to let me know if the bike starts afterward. If it doesn't, my next move will be to send down a new Mikuni TM40 Pumper Carburetor Kit. I will report any news.

Thanks to all who responded to my request for help...it is much appreciated.
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