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Old 10-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #1
Anywhereness OP
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Hydraulic Clutch Engagement Issue - Honda Hurricane

So I'm trying to help a friend work out an issue with his clutch, and borked it up even worse.

He has a 90's Hurricane (CBR 1000F) with a hydraulic clutch, and when going down the road the clutch lever rattled to no end. So, I pulled off the lever and the master cylinder engagement pin to inspect them.

Upon assembly, I believed that I found the issue; the engagement pin appeared to be inserted backwards into the bore, which meant that the pin went through the lever bushing rather than resting on it. (one side of the pin is larger than the other). We reinstalled with the flipped pin and the rattle was gone, but the clutch weight heavier and pull shorter.

But, after we do this, the clutch doesn't engage fully. I opened the reservoir to ensure that any air pressure build up would be released, which addressed some of the issue but the clutch now slips out under load.

The pin and bush can be seen here: (parts 1 and 2)
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...DER/parts.html


There's no adjustment lever on the outside of the engine casing, this is apparently a "self adjusting" system, but I can't determine what would still cause the clutch to slip. The fluid looks just fine. Prior to flipping the pin, the clutch wouldn't slip, but the lever turns back into a rattling mess.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:51 PM   #2
k-moe
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1. How old is the clutch?

2. When was the last time that the clutch cylinders were rebuilt and the hose replaced?
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:19 PM   #3
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1. Unknown

2. Unknown. The outer rubber boot (7 in the diagram) has seen better days, but the master cylinder isn't weeping at all and travel is smooth.


Riddle me this; why would it go from working OK (minus the rattling lever) to not working?
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:49 PM   #4
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Does it use brake fluid? If so I had something sorta like that happen to my k1200rs. Those do have an adjustment, but the adjuster is loctited in because as you pointed out, once its set you should never have to touch it.

Mine needed adjusting, so I did it right before a trip, during the trip I had to keep adjusting it, until it was out of range (couldn't fully disengage it)

took it to a dealer on the road to bleed and the lever went all the way down and wouldn't return. Turns out the clutch had not been bled in a long time and the return spring was corroded into pieces and disintegrated when they attempted to bleed it.

Luckily the dealer I was at found a return spring laying around and was able to fix it and get me on the road.

Someone may have reversed that pin on purpose, and you'll have to disassemble it to get a better look at it.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:26 AM   #5
kraven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anywhereness View Post
1. Unknown

2. Unknown. The outer rubber boot (7 in the diagram) has seen better days, but the master cylinder isn't weeping at all and travel is smooth.


Riddle me this; why would it go from working OK (minus the rattling lever) to not working?
I think you have an Eric2 situation with old parts, maybe some H2O in the system and at least one failed part in there.

Buy all the parts needed to reman it, as in everything in the fiche that you can still get, and then take it apart.

If your friend doesn't want to spend any money on it, tell him this is part of owning 20+ year old motorcycles and he's probably going to chase stuff like this all over the bike. People notoriously and purposely don't maintain old sportbikes. So, now when you buy one it's just one ignored maintenance item after another. Like 20+ year old clutch fluid.

I had a 900 Ninja a couple of years ago that was the same way. And a CBR 600F2.

The blue chip bikes like the RC models get star treatment by pathologically obsessed owners. But the run of the mill street bikes don't.
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