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Old 12-23-2012, 11:50 AM   #1
rudolf35 OP
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CB/CL 350 stuck oil drain screw

Since my R50/5 project is in the test phase, running up miles, I thought it was time to pay some attention to my CL350. The bike is down tithe frame and I have started to take the motor down. All is going well save the oil drain screw/cap in the bottom of the case.

I tried a 1/2 inch ratchet, 1/2 in with a two foot cheater bar and a 1/2 inch with a cheater bar plus heat: the bloody thing will not move. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:57 AM   #2
MChappy
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Heat the plug then cool it with a wet rag several times. Probably a case of dissimilar metal corrosion

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Old 12-23-2012, 01:21 PM   #3
rudolf35 OP
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No joy

Quote:
Originally Posted by MChappy View Post
Heat the plug then cool it with a wet rag several times. Probably a case of dissimilar metal corrosion

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Good idea; tried it and the cap would not budge - four cycles hot/cold.

Also tried just a good tap when hot to break the bond, no joy.

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Old 12-23-2012, 02:33 PM   #4
concours
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more info... You say drain screw/cap.. is it an aluminum cap with a large OD? Or a simple steel drain plug?
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:38 PM   #5
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try to remove as much oil as possible for safety reasons and than weld a big nut on to it. Worked on my xl250 when it was stuck
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:16 AM   #6
rudolf35 OP
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The cap

Quote:
Originally Posted by MChappy View Post
Heat the plug then cool it with a wet rag several times. Probably a case of dissimilar metal corrosion
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
It is a 2" disk with a 19mm faced tip, steel. It is a known issue with older Honda motors. The 19mm faces are in good shape so a slipping wrench is not a issue. As you mentioned earlier, dissimilar metal corrosion.

I might have to go with a old "fix", take the case down and clamp the 19mm in a vice and try to spin the lower case. Will be a mess but I do not want to blow the threads in the pan.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:16 AM   #7
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Or you could just tap it for a smaller drain plug.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolf35 View Post
It is a 2" disk with a 19mm faced tip, steel. It is a known issue with older Honda motors. The 19mm faces are in good shape so a slipping wrench is not a issue. As you mentioned earlier, dissimilar metal corrosion.

I might have to go with a old "fix", take the case down and clamp the 19mm in a vice and try to spin the lower case. Will be a mess but I do not want to blow the threads in the pan.
While a helper holds as much torque on it as you dare, (with a nice 6 point socket of course) take a sharp center punch held at a 60 degree angle out near the perimeter and whack it sharply with a 24oz hammer. Works every time. The small divot will be easily filed/blended smooth. I do it regularly.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:45 PM   #9
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If the drain plug is steel, heat the aluminum engine areas around the plug with a heat gun and try to remove it while things are nice and toasty. The aluminum expands faster than the steel and might (?) give up it's grasp on the steel plug. That's worked for me a few times.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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Good one

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Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
If the drain plug is steel, heat the aluminum engine areas around the plug with a heat gun and try to remove it while things are nice and toasty. The aluminum expands faster than the steel and might (?) give up it's grasp on the steel plug. That's worked for me a few times.

That is what I have in mind; that is after I have the case split. I drained the oil out via the left and right side, also the open top - messy but it drained the oil. Once I have the case split I will try heating the alloy locally, with the plug clamped in a vice, the try to twist it loose. If that fails, I will just drill out the center of the plug until I can crush it on itself; will replace it anyway.

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:07 PM   #11
ArtCuisin
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I had the same problem when I was 16 (about 36 years ago)
on my 1972 CL350.
Laid it on its side, cold, hit with hammer sqare-on.
Worked for me.
But that was a long time ago.


Maybe that experience is why I've pretty much drilled
and safety-wired drain plugs on everything I've owned
for the last 25 years. (I don't feel the need to tighten so hard.)

(Aside: I think it is funny how thinking about buying one of
those these many years later makes me shudder.)
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:44 PM   #12
Harry94025
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I've owned a couple of CB350's. I always would hit the drain plug on the top (bottom when the bike it upright) of the hex with a good sized hammer before attempting to loosen the drain plug. Then, a 1/2" breaker bar would do the trick...

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Old 12-28-2012, 05:48 AM   #13
electroken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolf35 View Post
If that fails, I will just drill out the center of the plug until I can crush it on itself; will replace it anyway.

I have one of those drain plugs sitting here in front of me, and I don't see that crush thing happening. My money is on a LARGE air impact wrench and a good 6-point socket.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:00 AM   #14
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Wlak past it every morning and night for a week, and hit it with Loctite "Freeze and Release" for a few seconds each time.
Then just before you walk away, kick it.

The last bit especially, is important.
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:21 AM   #15
rudolf35 OP
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#^^},> oil drain plug

OK, tried heating the lower case (400F in oven) and freezing plug - no joy.
Tried freezing plug - no joy
All the while using a impact to jarr the plug lose, this thing has become a part of the case. Any other ideas? Matter of fact, the cylinder studs and inner oil splash shield fasteners are just as frozen.

I need some sage advice!

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