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Old 08-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #136
waylongway
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Hummmmm,

Just went through all this on mine, take into account I started from scratch, custom harness from Greg...
Had some trouble at first (had the coil wires backwards) That front, back, left, right is a bit ding-a-ling! But talked to Ed and he said to pull the plug's and watch for the spark as you turn it over compared to the rotor, and move the rotor to match the the lines up, Make sense ?

Runs like a champ now

Eric
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:07 PM   #137
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mebbe....?

By move the rotor, you mean loosen and rotate the distributor housing w/ the rotor already attached, having lined it up with TDC of the right cyl? No, I'm not sure I do understand. What you really want is the middle advance line on the flywheel at the time the rotor fires the coil/plug, right? And you set that with the distributor housing bolts don't you?
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:06 AM   #138
waylongway
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NO. Ed said he hardly ever moves the housing. I mean move the rotor w/the little set screws. And compare w/ the fly wheel at TDC..




. How I time them: Pull plugs and ground them out to cylinders. Turn the engine over by hand and listed for the "crack" of the plug firing as you watch the

timing marks on the flywheel. Check to see if both plugs are firing and if ignition timing is on. It's probably something simple.



I usually leave the distributor as is and then just move the dyna rotor to set timing. Make sure the rotor is on there straight- there are two allen set screws for adjustment. And make sure the rotors doesn't rub on the pickups, too.



Good luck.








thanks,
Ed Milich, P. E.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:35 AM   #139
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OK, Thanks!

I'll try that! May take awhile, but I'll post again when I can get to it.

Thanks again. roy
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:28 PM   #140
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The Long and Winding Road...

At least with my work ethic...

Allright, I tried moving just the Dyna III rotor, trying to set it so the little LED I had connected to the right cyl coil wire that gets grounded by the Dyna when the pickup tells it to...was on the brink of turning the LED on and off as I got to the middle straight line just before the D and after the arrow. As I understand it, the arrow is supposed to be 33 degrees BTDC, and the middle line is 2 degrees BTDC. I do have a timing wheel, haven't tried to use it yet, nor have I hooked up my timing light. Then the left cyl, looked at with the same LED and the same straight line above the S (I can't tell that side has an arrow), seemed to be right where it needed to be without having to move the sensor plates. It was hard to get my little allen wrench to work exactly with my size XL hands, so I settled for close, it may be a bit retarded, I'll find out when I use the timing light. While I was at it, since I was going up to TDC anyhow, I reset the valves to .009 each side. I had previously put them at 006 and 008, intake and exhaust, and when it got hot, it didn't want to start or idle well; pretty sure that was a mistake on a new engine. Also messed with the clutch adjustment some.

Started right up, like it always does, took it out to warm it up, mirrors are better, shifting position is more to my liking, it sounds good (always has), the clutch still catches as soon as I release the lever, (which seems too quick to me). It does disengage completely, and if that's as good I can get it, I can live with it, just not quite what I'm used to....

Came back to the garage, ran the idle up to 1200-1500 and took the right mixture screw CCW a bit, til I heard the engine speed up some. Tried the same with the left, but it wasn't as obvious to me. At any rate, it seems to be willing to idle now, although at the fast idle. I've still got a fair amount to do before I try getting it to idle happily at 1000-1100 or so. And I want to start with the timing light and see where I am with dynamic timing.

The one thing I don't like is that it doesn't want to kick right off when it's hot. I know it's a new engine, so it's gonna be tight, but before I feel confident enough to ride it down for the license inspection, I want to see if I can't fix that issue. Right now I'm assuming it's just getting the timing and the carbs closer. Might take another stab at the head torques before I get it licensed, it depends on how happy it seems. I've probably started it a half dozen times or so since I did the first re-torque after the first coupla warm-ups, might be a little premature, but it is easy to do.

Oh, the Bunn breathers...I suspect I'll need to really ride it at some higher rpm's (I've had it as high as 5000 now, just briefly) before it's worth commenting on, but the 'exhaust' lines coming from each valve cover are puffing out little blasts of a light colored "smoke" as it sits there idling, no oil drips yet. Not sure what to expect, just wanted to note it.

Another item of OCD note...I was real happy with how cool the intake manifolds appear to be relative to the cyl heads, I used an ohmmeter to make sure I had good isolation there, even ended up grinding a flat side on a couple of the stainless washers so they didn't touch.

My rear MC may need rebuilding, I didn't do that originally, so naturally it's weeping a little. I do have a cc of the carb adjustment write-up from Greg Bender's site, I'll use it to sync them after I'm happy with the timing light. more when I know more, roy
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:21 PM   #141
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Rear Drive leaking.....

seems worse than when I put in the new outer seal. It was so easy to do I'm a little perplexed that I could have made it worse than it was; right now I'm thinking I need to read up on how to take more apart and replace an inner seal I've never seen. Advice appreciated...like is there an obvious way to tell if it's the inner seal leaking? Clearly not the drain plug.

Timing....I finally put my timing light on it, and was surprised to see that at idle it's pretty retarded, not sure just how much, but if I rev it up to about 2000, the middle timing line comes right into view, and if I go toward 4000 I can see the arrow, so the advance seems to be working, although I didn't realize it would start so soon. At least I know how to muck with the timing, (and surprise, it runs damn good at 2000), not so good at idle.

On the positive side, I'm beginning to think I could enjoy riding this bike, it shifts great! (thanks, Charley); although I need more practice at downshifting with the throttle match. And I may want to spring for better shocks.

I may be awhile getting to the rear end now, actually need to work on my travelling bike a bit, as soon as the weather cools some I want to ride to Missouri and visit my son. roy
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:44 PM   #142
waylongway
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Hey Roy,

Had the same problem w/ my rear drive. Greg told me to use some semi drying liquid gasket between the paper gaskets....I used a Yamalube 4,

No more leak!! Just be careful not to break the little tabs off the bolt keepers.

18 lbs on the bolts
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:58 PM   #143
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Assume I should replace them.....?

Haven't been inside the rear drive yet, but they look like they're awfully fragile. Guess they must have dried out while it was sitting waiting for all the other parts to come moseying in...here's a probably useless pic of how much oil I lost on a mebbe 8 mile ride just to warm it up.


flemsmith screwed with this post 08-16-2013 at 05:05 PM
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:03 PM   #144
waylongway
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Mmmmm,

Is the puddle from before the ride? That is a lot?? I have read of putting the paper gaskets in water to thicken them up, if you can get them out in one peace. but I had new ones. That seems like too much if you put in a new main seal ,to be the seal. At this point can't hurt to open it up and take a look ... Just pops off, make sure you keep the arrows' lined up
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:55 PM   #145
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No, that's after today's ride...

duh...what arrows? I'm thinking you're telling me to make sure I put the cover back on in the same exact orientation I take it off, right? I'll look for some bleeding arrows when I get it off. Probably wouldn't have thought of that without your reminder, thanks!

roy
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:29 PM   #146
flemsmith OP
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Leak is coming from the new seal...

I haven't pulled it out yet, but I must have either set it too low, or messed up the sealing surface. Will try again with a new seal.

roy
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #147
waylongway
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I guess that's a Good thing? Easy fix
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:21 PM   #148
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Just saw pix of your bike....

Waylongway: That's beautiful work! Congratulations; if it rides half as good as it looks, you should be very proud.

Thanks for the advice you've thrown my way.

roy
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:28 PM   #149
waylongway
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Thanks, Roy !

Just got back from ride #2 ,all is good This thing makes you feel like a real Bad Ass

Besides running out of gas on (on) did not have enough gas ,needed to be on reserve .Then finding small gas leak at the petcock line

Right now I'm scared to death of this thing! I can't wait till this dam show is over and I can breath again

Best ,Eric
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Old 09-07-2013, 03:08 PM   #150
flemsmith OP
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Finally got around tuit...

...to looking at the final drive leak that is. Was surprised to find this:



All the other teeth look fine, but this one sucks. Don't suppose it would make a lot of sense to put it back together this way. Got a feeling this is a send out to someone who's used to setting up bevel drives. That'll set me back some..money and timing.

Eric, enjoyed your description of riding your bike. I suspect you're feeling a lot more comfortable on it now. I decided to spring for a new set of rear shocks, mine was just a bit too rough to suit me. Anxious to see if that helps, now it looks like it'll be some time before that happens.

roy
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