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Old 01-09-2014, 10:49 AM   #181
Jesse Luggage
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Location: Sunny Arizona
Oddometer: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty44 View Post
that link isn't working for me......
maybe this one,

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.u...p?p=finaldrive
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:08 PM   #182
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Yep, that's it!

Thanks for the link help. I musta done something wrong when I cc'd it.

OK, now I need some smarter than me help/advice. I got in my new drive flange, so I took the rear drive apart again. The old drive flange did have some wear spots that didn't look perfect, but there were no deep scratches, although could have been a few very light ones. I've got it in my oven for an hour at 400F before I remove those red loctited bolts. (When I put it back together, I think I'll just use blue loctite along w/ the schnoor washers, so it'll be easy to take apart again.)

Here's my Que:



Here's the big bearing the drive flange sits inside. Obviously it's had some troubles in the past, not sure if I did it when I drove the first seal in too far..?
So I thought I'd mask off the viton seal that's in there now and try some fine crocus cloth. Didn't make much of a diff. I can feel slight irregularities with my fingernail. Bearing feels fine, and that mating surface should be pretty much a press fit with the drive flange, meaning it shouldn't move...but could it be as much a source of the oil leak as the drive flange to seal surface? Part of me thinks that if I get that interface right, this one shouldn't matter. But I'm not confident enough about that to put it back together without some corraborating opinions. Anyone think I should be ok without replacing the big bearing? roy
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:31 PM   #183
flemsmith OP
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Plodding along...

Partly since the big bearing was on back-order, and partly because I'm confident that it's no big deal to take it apart again if I need to, I decided to replace the drive flange and try using the same big bearing...it rolls very freely, just has that discolored section where it obviously turned against the previous drive flange some time in the past. I even used red loctite again for the drive flange mounting bolts, but I have to confess that I didn't buy new bolts again...these are almost new and at $12 each for 8 of 'em, I figured the red loctite and schnorr washers were good enough insurance that nothing would come apart. New large drive seal, and as I was installing the new drive flange, I did put some blue loctite on the bearing surface that looks like it's done a little spinning in the past. I'll take it as a good omen that the seal definitely seems a bit tighter on the new drive flange than it did on the old one. Letting it sit and rest overnight. Should get a chance to tell whether it's leak free by this weekend. roy
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:05 AM   #184
flemsmith OP
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Fixed that leak....

Now I need to put some miles on to make sure it isn't leaking anywhere else, and get it registered and legal.

roy
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:10 PM   #185
Watercat
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More pix please; Love the look of your Guzzi ! ! !

btw = the color is sweet for that bike.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:19 PM   #186
flemsmith OP
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In hibernation....

Couldn't get it to idle to suit me, so took it to Mark at Quality Cycles in Mesa, mostly an Airhead shop, but they do nice work on all bikes. Turns out my right carb is not working right mixture-wise, left one is fine. But on the way I ended up with an oil leak I hadn't seen before. It was coming from the right valve cover breather hose. Guess 20 miles at 75-80 sustained will turn up more debug issues than just a few miles at a time does. Good news is it was very happy at freeway speeds. And now I've run up against some other things I promised my wife I'd do first, and they are gonna take awhile. Then I have to clean up the oil mist. I did order new needles and jets in prep, but it will take me some time to get back to it. Happily, the rear drive doesn't appear to be leaking at all now.

I'll report back in when I've had a chance to spend time and see what my carb issue is. If it's not float levels or needle jet wear, I'll take it apart again and make sure all the passages are still open.
roy
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:00 AM   #187
Jesse Luggage
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Quality Cycles tracked down a charging problem for me on my T3. Good shop to deal with.
Neil
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:01 PM   #188
flemsmith OP
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Stupid old guy tricks...

I do like the looks of these old Enduro sidebags....


But they're actually quite light and a bit delicate. Especially if you forget to latch the lid and hear it rubbing between your back tire and rear fender.


Dammit!

So now I need to figure out how best to repair...the only way I really know how to do it is with fiberglass. Lay up some aluminum foil tape on the outside so I can put a layer of fiberglass inside.
Then when it dries, do the same from the outside and get ready to sand some really tough fiberglass.



I have no idea what type of plastic it is, and I've never tried to weld any plastic at all, so unless someone can clue me in on a better way to fix this, I guess I'll continue with the fiberglass. Down side is how hard it will be for me to get a perfectly smooth contour, and how well I can blend it in with the plastic at the edges. I guess I should finish with bondo when I think I'm close. Any better ideas, pls advise. I'll probably try posting in the garage too, lots of clever folks seem to hang out there.

flemsmith screwed with this post 03-15-2014 at 08:09 PM
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:33 PM   #189
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 563
It's finally legal!

Az lets you do a bonded title, which required me writing some letters: to the orig seller (no longer at that address), to the state of Montana where it was last registered, to the last person who had registered it, (now deceased). Once I got those letters back, unopened, off to the insurance office to get a bond. $50.

While I was waiting on all that to happen, I was learning how to patch the sidebag lid so it wasn't obvious. Actually I'm still learning that, seems fiberglass and plastic don't interface all that well, I keep seeing the edge of the patch...but I think I'm getting close.

And one other good thing...I was having trouble with the footpegs being a little too knee-bendy. Had my knee drained (185cc of synovial fluid) and a steroid shot....Felt fine riding it today. Doc told me it should last somewhere between 5 days and 5 months. Guess we'll see.

roy
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:45 PM   #190
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 563
Bunn breather...

I was asked about how I routed the crankcase breather, so here's a pix.



Crankcase on the T3 has two breather tubes, I just capped off the small one, and ran the larger one up the frame and terminated it in some pod type filter I had around. The Bunn system also had a little filter in the line, so what I added was probably overkill.

roy
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:59 PM   #191
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 563
Finally it's idling....

like it should. I ended up buying another right side carb from ebay, rebuilt it and it was immediately better than the original, so after syncing it and adjusting the mixture and idle speed, it idles by itself just fine.

I'm pretty sure the original carb must have had a leaking float valve or mebbe the floats themselves. So now let's see what else I want to change in order to enjoy longer rides.

roy
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Old 05-14-2014, 06:58 AM   #192
JonnyCash
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Glad to see you're still going on this. Speaking of bag lids getting loose while riding, the other day I was out for a ride on my /5. Looked over my shoulder at 60 mph to see that the lid on one of my nice Bucos had come unlatched, and had somehow fallen into the case endwise. No loss, no damage. I went straight home (was headed there anyway), figured I'd used up all of my good luck for the day!
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:50 PM   #193
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 563
sidebag lid repair...

I wasn't proud enough of my repair job to do any real posting on the lid that had the hole burnt in it from my rear tire....I must have patched, sanded and primed 15 times and I could never get rid of the interface between the plastic lid and the fiberglass patch. I finally ordered some 3M vinyl, and covered it with that. It actually looks quite good from 5 feet..closer will show some wrinkles I couldn't get out, and the exact right light reflection still shows that my compound curves are not exactly right. But for now I'm calling it good enough. There's some other things I want to redo first before I mess with that anymore.

thanks for the encouragement.

roy
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:32 PM   #194
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 563
Bunn breathers...

A quick update on the Bunn breather install. I saw some pretty slight leakage out of the valve cover breather hoses after a pretty decent sustained run on the freeway, so emailed Rex Bunn, and with his inputs, I redid the hose routing.

Originally I had the valve cover breather hoses heading straight inwards and then down behind the tranny. I've now changed them to loop up under the front of the gas tank thusly:

After the Bunn valves, I'm running a fairly long coupla tubes towards the back of the bike, one terminates behind the tranny, and one is tied under the left side of the swingarm.

In addition, Rex advised me to remove the small filter he had sent (it's laying loose on the valve cover in that pix), and am now just using the cheapo K&N style filter to feed the bottom of the crankcase.

So now after about a 30 mile ride at freeway speeds, no leaks apparent from either of the valve breather hoses; I'm calling that little issue resolved. roy
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:40 PM   #195
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
A quick update on the Bunn breather install. I saw some pretty slight leakage out of the valve cover breather hoses after a pretty decent sustained run on the freeway, so emailed Rex Bunn, and with his inputs, I redid the hose routing.

Originally I had the valve cover breather hoses heading straight inwards and then down behind the tranny. I've now changed them to loop up under the front of the gas tank thusly:

After the Bunn valves, I'm running a fairly long coupla tubes towards the back of the bike, one terminates behind the tranny, and one is tied under the left side of the swingarm.

In addition, Rex advised me to remove the small filter he had sent (it's laying loose on the valve cover in that pix), and am now just using the cheapo K&N style filter to feed the bottom of the crankcase.

So now after about a 30 mile ride at freeway speeds, no leaks apparent from either of the valve breather hoses; I'm calling that little issue resolved. roy
Hi Roy,

Interesting. So, basically you've done the following:

1. small tube from bellhousing = blocked.
2. large tube from bellhousing = no valve and only a K&N breather filter.
3. valve cover vents = one way exit-only valves and hose routed as shown.

Does that about some it up?

Out of curiosity, what speed did you maintain and for how long with your interstate run?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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