ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Some Assembly Required
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #16
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
It's Eagle One brand...



Can't say I'm wild about the results, it's darker than I would like and there are some places where the etching is uneven. Next pic might show some of the uneven color, but it is better than it was. The back of the label says do not use on polished aluminum wheels or on motorcycle wheels, and my rims required a fair amount of work with steel wool and metal polish to get them looking good again, but then they looked pretty crappy to begin with, so I wasn't worried about that.

Here I am trying to figure out how to use my new wheel balancer, If you look closely, you should be able to see some of the color variation of the hub, but for now, I think it's good enough.



I love to try doing things I read or hear about that are supposedly an improvement over stock...From the wildguzzi site, there was a thread about how the cush drives on these bikes are really hard as a rock and kinda tough on the tranny, there are even guys who are saying not to use the engine downshift to help slowdown. No way I can ever give that up, it's just part of the fun of riding a bike to me. So here's a supposed improvement....



Drill holes in the rubber spacers. It's a lot easier to use one of those gasket punches in your drill press rather than a drill bit. Doesn't make a perfect hole, but I don't think that matters, The OCD part of me rotated every other one, so the large hole sides balance out. Dunno if it makes any difference or not, but those rubber spacers really are hard as a rock. I coulda drilled some more holes but the truth is, this old bike had 50K miles on it, and both the tranny and the engine were really in pretty good shape internally. Guess I'll go play with wheel balancing now while I wait on wheel bearings. For the last coupla years I've been changing my own tires and just leaving the balance like the wheels were balanced before. Kinda anxious to see if I can tell a difference when I actually balance them. This wheel was definitely not in balance, but then I never rode the bike that fast or far before I started tearing it apart,. later. roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 04:45 AM   #17
McJamie
STROMINATOR
 
McJamie's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 1,314
Thanks.
Same as you, I'm looking for an improvement as opposed to getting perfection. Having something I can use and ride is more important than having something that's flawless.
I will try it.
Looking forward to seeing more progress from your build.
Subscribed.
__________________
If you get far enough away, you'll be on your way home.
Piss off, I'm in my Happy place.
McJamie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #18
neil p
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: La Alpujarra,Andalucia.
Oddometer: 76
Great write up, lovely bike.

You found the clip/fold to take the tank strap yet ? Its on the underside of the central /top frame tube.
neil p is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2013, 07:30 PM   #19
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
Not yet, but thanks...

I haven't actually looked since, but I'll go check that out, appreciate the input.

roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #20
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
Brake calipers...

I remember thinking the brakes were not so great when I rode this bike, so I decided it's finally time to rebuild the calipers. There's a very detailed article with lots of pix in the Sept/Oct 2011 issue of Motorcycle Classics that I had saved. Only thing is, it talked about using the hydraulics to force the pistons closed together after you take the calipers off the disks, (making them easy to remove) and I'd already gone way past that step before I looked at the article. The two front calipers were pretty crusty, and only one of the four pistons came out with the old compressed air trick...



So I messed around with the others a bit, penetrating oil, finally using a torch to heat the aluminum housing, then a couple whacks with a chisel to the piston itself, just to try to break loose the rust. More penetrating oil. One of them came out pretty readily with that approach, The other two required two heat cycles and some time for the penetrating oil to work, then a clamp over the o-ring to the internal port, and it finally came out too. (Couldn't hold it tight enough with my finger.) By this time, I was convinced I'd need new anodized pistons, so I wasn't worried about being a bit agressive with the old ones, and I was careful not to damage the housings. So I have both front ones in pieces now, and waiting for new pistons.


For the purists who might be following along, I had forgotten to take the rubber piston seals out before I took this picture, otherwise, I think all the parts are showing. It's really a quite simple unit. At least to take apart.
Funny thing, the rear caliper was clearly a new unit, and compared to the other two was very pristene, even the rubber dust covers looked new, so I'm gonna leave it alone.

Meanwhile, my wheel bearings came in, so I should have some fun reassembly to do this weekend. And I'll even get to use the wheel balancer! later, roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2013, 09:17 PM   #21
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
Thanks, BMCiggy...

Yes, I see the attachemnt for the tank strap now, Pretty obvious if you know where to look. Not so much when I look at it from above and can't remember much of anything about how it came apart. I took pictures, made notes, and put all the little hardware in baggies, and there are still things I run into that I can't remember. Without a parts manual and a service manual I couldn't do anything.

Didn't seem like I got much done this weekend, I did fit the new wheel bearings, changed the front tire and balanced it.....



Installed the tire and mocked up the front calipers to get the right shim spacing while I wait on pistons and brake pads. Started thinking about the wiring. I had rewired it once and felt pretty good about it, but I think I may change a few things, so that will probably take awhile. Believe I'll add acouple of those LED running lights for better visibility. And I can't remember that much about how to put the rear wheel back on. I'm sure I have to take off the rear drive, but hopefully not the swingarm. I'll read up on it a bit first.

Have new brake lines on order too, although I made at least one new mistake. The new caliper I thought I had was actually for the front left, not the rear, so I think I need to order a new solid brake line for the rear caliper. The new one is the only one that wasn't all bent up.

Plus, I need to get started prepping the tank for paint. I'll use POR15 to line it, but first I need to go visit my painter and see whether I can afford that now or may have to wait a bit. I bought a convert tank off ebay that's a bit rough. If I can get him to paint that one, I could break in the bike with the original tank. Ideally I'd like to get the saddlebags and the front fairing painted too, but that may be a bit too pricey. They're black now and look fairly decent. I think black would go pretty well with the color I'm planning for the tank.

later, roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 05:33 AM   #22
JonnyCash
turd polisher
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Midcoast, Maine
Oddometer: 1,417
you certainly do not have to take off the bevel box to remove/install the rear wheel.
__________________
I wouldn't bring her home to Mama, but Mama ain't home tonight.
JonnyCash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 12:38 PM   #23
Egoland
n00b
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Denmark, Scandinavia
Oddometer: 7
Wink Maybe you can use this?

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzit...moto_guzzi.htm

Some of it is in Danish, that part is clear and easy to read, the rest is in English, you can skip that if it gets boring!
Egoland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #24
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
Thanks for both your inputs....

I'm waiting for a rear wheel spacer that is on order before I re-install the rear wheel. What I took off was homemade and pretty cobbled up....I'll give it a go without trying to take off the bevel drive, but just looking at things, it's not obvious to me how I'm gonna do it.

Just got over the flu, still feeling a bit weak, so not much progress lately. I did get the calipers rebuilt, ordered some Spiegler brake lines to replace the old rubber hoses, and I'm waiting on new solid brake lines. The ones I had were pretty bent up as the PO had put the front calipers behind the forks instead of in front and just bent the hoses and solid lines to make things work.

A little story. My dad was a heavy duty equip mechanic, early in his life. The story he told was that his first job interview went: "Theres a tractor engine over there that's all in pieces. If you can get it back together and running, you've got the job." I've always been a bit intimidated that he could have done that. I can't do much of anything without a parts manual, a service manual, and being able to take things apart myself, and then put it back together before I forget how it came apart. When I get to the rear wheel install stage, I'll slow down and take pix/ ask for advice if I get stuck.

Thanks again. roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 06:59 PM   #25
RedRaptor22
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Louisiana
Oddometer: 154
I'm not sure if the Avon roadriders are different from pretty much every other tire but it looks like that front is on backwards, usually the front tread is opposite directions from the rear, belts are laid a certain way to either take acceleration forces or braking forces, unless that's a bias ply I'd flip it.
RedRaptor22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2013, 04:14 PM   #26
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
Dammit!

I saw that after I thought I had it mounted right. Turns out the disks did not align with the calipers til I turned the whole wheel around the other way. And I was trying to be so careful. Good news is that the front tire comes off real easily. Bad news is that my record so far on mounting tube tires without pinching is not much better than 50%. I was happy this one didn't end up with a leak, we'll see how happy I am when I try to turn it around. I'm pretty impressed that you caught me so quickly. For now I'm gonna put that on my to do list sometime in the future. Hopefully I'll remember to do it before I actually fire it up and start the ol debug process. How bad would it be if I fired it up first and changed that when I was ready for the first oil change and head retorque? Doubt I'd be doing anything agressive before then.

Guess it's a good thing to be sharing all my dirty laundry way out in the open like this. Plenty of sharp eyes to keep me honest.

And today I found out that I never actually ordered the rear wheel spacer part I've been waiting for....duh. At least it feels good to be over the flu finally.

roy
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 11:44 AM   #27
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,083
Hi Roy,

Thanks for sending me a link to your build here on ADV Rider :>

If you want to have a go a bending up your own solid replacement brake lines, let me know. I've got the proper tool for it and the solid line stock is inexpensive.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 11:51 AM   #28
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,083
Quote:
Originally Posted by Egoland View Post
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzit...moto_guzzi.htm

Some of it is in Danish, that part is clear and easy to read, the rest is in English, you can skip that if it gets boring!
Nice link! Jens Lyck did a good job of translating almost all of his content into English from Danish. I'm sure you know about this, but there is a "Danish | English" toggle at the top of the left column on all pages. This is particularly helpful for those of us not blessed with the native ability to read Danish :> :> :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 01:29 PM   #29
JonnyCash
turd polisher
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Midcoast, Maine
Oddometer: 1,417
Yes, Jens Lyck's tech articles were a godsend when I took my bottom end apart, as well as shimming the gearbox. There was a lot there that fear I would have missed without this resource. Thanks, Gregory, for making available to all of us!
__________________
I wouldn't bring her home to Mama, but Mama ain't home tonight.
JonnyCash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2013, 06:57 PM   #30
flemsmith OP
lurk
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 510
It's a rolling chassis....

Well, almost, I probably wouldn't try rolling it around til I get at least the front brake all together and bled. But I realized it would be so much easier to change out the front tire direction if I did it now before I started bleeding the brakes, so now the front tire is rotating in the proper direction. Although I maintained my hamfisted tire changing ability by puncturing another tube. The disgusting part is that when I was 15, my first job in a service station was that I was the main tire changing fool. And I thought I was pretty good at it too. Well, although I didn't scratch the rims (any more than they already were), I suspect no one will believe me because both of them are already scratched all to hell.



So now, the next thing I need to ponder is how to deal with the headlight connectors. Kinda long story, but the short version is that the molex connectors were pretty buggered up when I started working on the wiring last summer, so I bought all new connectors online, and the little tool that lets me extract the pins and I set to work replacing them. It turns out that the connector pairs I bought don't actually latch together, it's almost like they both are expecting to go thru bulkhead fittings or some such hunk of metal with the proper hole l x w.....
By the time I figured out what was wrong, I already had it ready to ride, so I gave it a little try-out, and one of the connector pairs just came apart, I guess I was hoping the pin forces would hold them together. So I ended up using RTV to anchor them together...solved that problem, but it looks like crap, and now that I have it apart again, I should really try to find the proper connectors and fix it so I'm not ashamed of the way it looks.



See the little tabs on the side of the three pin connector? That's what I need on the males of the larger ones in order to actually latch the females from the wiring harness together with the male connections from inside the bucket. Without those, I'm gonna have to resort to the RTV again....I think I'll spend a little time looking harder before I decide which way to go. As added incentive, I bought an ebay metal Aprilla headlamp bucket that looks a lot nicer than the plastic one that came with my bike. So I don't really mind redoing those connectors, if I can find the proper males with the latching tabs. Anyone knows a source, I'm appreciative in advance.

Greg, Thanks for the solid brake line suggestion. Unfortunately, I already have the originals on order, and unless I manage to mess them up, I think they'll probably look and work better than anything I could bend myself.
flemsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014