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Old 05-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #1
r90 OP
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K1300s oil consumption

I know this topic has been beat to death. Has anyone gotten BMW to do anything for excessive oil consumption on their K1300?

I bought a new 2009 K1300s as a leftover in June of 2010 and as hard as it was I broke it in properly. It used oil from day one. Both the dealer and I figured it was normal, it was using a quart every 1000-1500 miles. This year with about 10k miles, after it's annual service it started using 3/4 of a quart every 200-300 miles!! This got BMW's attention. After a few weeks of going to the dealer for top ups (so they could verify use), they took it in and started a PUMA case.

BMW is recommending replacing the pistons and valve seals. This makes me uncomfortable to say the least. According to the service director they can't replace the long block, because there aren't any available and BMW is unwilling to buy my bike back.

Anyone here had any similar experience? I would be curious to hear the end result.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:02 AM   #2
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Hey. I have an '06 K1200R and it uses zip between recommended changes. And though I am a member of several K-Bike forums I can't recall hearing of this issue before. But search around. If I were in your shoes, and trusted my dealer, I'd get the work done. Did they do any diagnostics at all (simple compression checks for example) because it does sound a bit like a shotgun solution. Still, it will probably be fine.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:46 AM   #3
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My 2009 K13S never consumed oil in 25K miles - but then again I didn't break it in "properly."
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:04 AM   #4
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Normally I'd say change to dino oil and run the crap out of it, but 3/4ths of a quart down after 200 miles means something a bit more serious has happened.

I wouldn't be worried about the replacement of pistons and valve seals.......that's pretty simple stuff on a K44. Make sure they do a valve clearance check/correction when they have the head off.
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Old 05-12-2012, 01:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiaz View Post
Normally I'd say change to dino oil and run the crap out of it, but 3/4ths of a quart down after 200 miles means something a bit more serious has happened.

I wouldn't be worried about the replacement of pistons and valve seals.......that's pretty simple stuff on a K44. Make sure they do a valve clearance check/correction when they have the head off.
The engine has to come out and apart to change the pistons. The cylinder block is part of the upper case.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #6
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You broke it in properly, just not "by the book" ! I've always been pretty gentle for the first hundred miles, and then hammered them. I'd stay off the rev limiter, but not by much!



Quote:
Originally Posted by apessino View Post
My 2009 K13S never consumed oil in 25K miles - but then again I didn't break it in "properly."
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Old 05-16-2012, 03:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Josephvman View Post
You broke it in properly, just not "by the book" ! I've always been pretty gentle for the first hundred miles, and then hammered them. I'd stay off the rev limiter, but not by much!
Yup - that's what I've always done as well. Just make sure everything is completely up to temp, then keep the revs varied and occasionally go for a trip up the range. Repeat until done...

Oil consumption is the most common problem when engines are babied during break in - if the rings didn't seal properly at the beginning you are screwed (not to say that this is what happened to the OP, of course - no idea what happened there).
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:02 PM   #8
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I would be interested to hear more. I have a 2009 K13R that has never used a drop of oil.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:13 PM   #9
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I had an oil burning issue with my K1200R. The first time I checked the valve clearances, when I put it back together it was using enough oil to visibly smoke from the exhaust. This was with an aftermarket muffler without a catalytic converter.

The cam cover has passages that lead to the exhaust ports for air injection. The small holes in the cam cover gasket are for the air injection. I removed the cover to check the gasket. It wasn't damaged but I replaced it anyhow. No change. I plugged the ports with RTV and it has been fine since. Someday if I remember I'll thread the ports and screw some metal plugs into them.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Anorak View Post

The cam cover has passages that lead to the exhaust ports for air injection. The small holes in the cam cover gasket are for the air injection. I removed the cover to check the gasket. It wasn't damaged but I replaced it anyhow. No change. I plugged the ports with RTV and it has been fine since. Someday if I remember I'll thread the ports and screw some metal plugs into them.
So... you're saying oil was being fed into the exhaust ports (instead of air to further burn the exhaust?). I hate to ask (as I am still getting my head around this) where the fuck was the oil coming from?
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:14 PM   #11
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So... you're saying oil was being fed into the exhaust ports (instead of air to further burn the exhaust?). I hate to ask (as I am still getting my head around this) where the fuck was the oil coming from?
From inside the cylinder head. There is a passage from the cam cover to the cylinder which is sealed by the cam cover gasket. I assumed it was from the gasket but apparently it wasn't I didn't do anything brutal in the process of removing and replacing the cover. I checked clearance only so the cams were undisturbed.

So, in conclusion, I'm not sure. In fact, until this thread I had forgotten about it. It was at least four years ago. Maybe the next time I check the valves I'll take another look if I remember.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:38 AM   #12
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Thanks. Interesting. And weird.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:10 AM   #13
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Let 'em fix it, and see what happens.
Stuff happens when engines are mass produced, but one guy at the dealer reassembling it on his workbench or in a clean room (however they do it), will probably the trick.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:09 PM   #14
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Let 'em fix it, and see what happens.
Stuff happens when engines are mass produced, but one guy at the dealer reassembling it on his workbench or in a clean room (however they do it), will probably the trick.
Assuming the Tech is good, of course.

Reminds me of a customer I had when I was a Mitsubishi Shop Foreman in the 1990's. I had a customer with a Galant that was using oil. Compression and leak down tests were both fine. The Mfr wanted me to replace valve seals. I knew from past experience with many other 4g6 engine variants that had experienced the same issue that the likely cause was ring gaps lining up over time, which is caused by cylinders that are not "round". When a cylinder is bored slightly oval the rings will rotate so that the gaps line up at the point of the largest diameter. Anyway, we explained to the customer I was going to replace valve seals first, and if that didn't cure the oil consumption issue I'd overhaul the engine and have it over bored one size. The customer was furious because I was going to take the engine apart. He wanted a new complete new engine from Mitsubishi (which they didn't even sell anyway - you had to buy a short block and cylinder head and assemble it at the dealership). When I asked why he said "because you can't possibly build an engine to the standards that the factory does, and you can't duplicate the controlled environment that they are built in". I replied " Oh. You mean the quality standards and environment that bored egg shaped cylinders into your block and created the oil burner you've lived with from day one? Yes, you're right, I've never been able to duplicate that in the shop environment, and am 100% sure I won't duplicate it with your engine either!". Not having a response to that, he decided to let me rebuild the engine
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:40 PM   #15
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Thanks, Bueller. That was exactly what I was getting at, man.
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