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Old 01-10-2013, 11:10 AM   #91
RxZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
Rxz,

Unfortunately 4x4s got popular to those that think of them as a status thing instead of the tool they were meant to be. The vacuum/electric engagement stuff today is so those who want to look like a rugged individual on their way to the mall or around here in the North Dallas area, Harley shop, can just flip a switch or push a button to engage the 4x4. I prefer a mechanical lever and locking hubs. My Jeep has unit bearing hubs that are similar to those found in the front axle of a 1 ton Dodge or Ford HD pickup. That means I just shift the Atlas T-case into 4wd hi or lo and go on.
I can agree with this, and I now what you mean about North Dallas! I get into that area enough to know the type. That said, there sure is a lot of scenery in the Target in Frisco

My 4runner has the lever you pull to engage 4wd, and although it has auto locking hubs, my plan is to put in some manual locking Aisen (sp?) hubs at some point. All in due time. I am not planning on making this a monster rock crawler rather a capable daily driver, but I would like to go out with my brothers on some of their excursions to dirtier areas of East Texas.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:48 PM   #92
High Country Herb
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I solved the problem of the electric bulb hub lockers on my 96 Chevy K1500. I installed a "4x4 Autolock" that replaces the bulb with a mechanical piston driven by a cable into the cab. Not only does it provide positive engagement, but also allows me to use low range in 2WD. That can be pretty handy for backing trailers on dry pavement.

My truck did fairly well at Moab, for a full size. With only a 1.5" lift and 32" tires, I was able to do most of the trails. Even my short cab short bed scraped the rear bumper a few times. Turning radius isn't that of a jeep, but probably better than an extended cab Toyota.

"Leveling" kits; There is actually some good reasons to make the front sit higher than the rear. As I have found racing autocross, lowering the rear stabilizes the vehicle. Off road racers have been doing it for years on trophy trucks and pre-runners, neither of which need to carry much weight. I don't care for the look, and my truck squats enough already with a truckload of bricks.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:19 AM   #93
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Personally, after three 4x4's with and four without I hope to never own another one with manual locking hubs. So far through two 4Runners, a Cherokee and my Ranger I have never had the 4x4 fail to engage when I needed it and I have never had one break. I was never a fan of manual locking hubs in SC mud and even less of a fan in MD snow and ice.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:23 PM   #94
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Leveling kit

This added 1.5 to the front and 2 in the rear. I also installed airbags to carry the weight of the camper. I typically run a wider tire so I can air way down in sand with the camper and trailer.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:43 AM   #95
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:19 PM   #96
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:56 PM   #97
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I didn't read the whole thread but if you did this youreself get a good alignment it changes everything. Lifts and leveling kits can be fine except I hate doing Dodges as far a lifts go.
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:58 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass View Post
Did it:


OME? How's it feel?

I did the 5125/5100 using the middle notch up front (leveling only) on my '03 XC. It's a totally different truck now (from 10 year old stock suspension).
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:35 PM   #99
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Why? For looks?
And less gas mileage?
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:36 PM   #100
Hannda
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And less gas mileage?
As usual I posted before reading the entire thread. I'd be interested to see how much, if any, your mileage suffers. I'd fear around 10%. Looks nice though.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:09 PM   #101
madeouttaglass OP
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Originally Posted by rob feature View Post
OME? How's it feel?

I did the 5125/5100 using the middle notch up front (leveling only) on my '03 XC. It's a totally different truck now (from 10 year old stock suspension).
Bilstiens with stock springs at the top notch plus 1.00 spacers on the struts. Tried RC springs but they were too wide and rubbed. Rear has 2.5 inch blocks. The entire front end also had poly bushings, steering rack, tie rod ends and ball joints done. Everything was loose at 120K miles. Feels like new. I don't drive it enough miles to really know mileage changes. I do mostly short drives to run errands here in the hills. It seems to always get 15-16. (Not overly impressed by that.)
When I lifted my 454 2500 Suburban it stayed at the same 10 MPG that it always got.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:45 PM   #102
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Ouch. I'm getting 22+ in the hills with a 4x4 V6 5 speed. I also have a shell which probably helps. The leveling kit didn't change mileage any for me, but then again it only raised the front & that was under an inch.
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