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Old 02-24-2013, 06:22 PM   #151
zipper421 OP
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bracket

i no i no
1/4 inch plate is over kill
which i love
but it works
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:52 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipper421 View Post
remover rear tire ground the casting slag down make a 1/4 inch plate that fits flush same on the out side find the center and drill small pilot hole remove both pieces and drill 1/2 inch hole outside gets tubing welded to it a 1/2 inch bolt goes back to front 1/2 inch grade 8
i will take some pics tomorrow if you let me no what you would like
Sorry, I just realized that my 1200 final drive is different than your bike. The webbed arm on my final drive is much different besides the fact that runs on the top of the drive shaft, unlike yours which runs below. I will have to fab something that I can use.

How did you size the sawbar (diameter of the bar/spring rate)? Did you get it from a sprint car racing products supplier?
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:30 PM   #153
zipper421 OP
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sway bar

google
paul hortons
welder series
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:57 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by zipper421 View Post
google
paul hortons
welder series
How did you find that ? Claude ? Lots of good stuff there.thanks.DB
http://www.welderseries.com/blog/
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:06 PM   #155
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google
paul hortons
welder series
Thanks for the info. I don't see anywhere on that site that allows you to account for the spring rate of the bar itself. Although much more expensive, the sprint car guys use 30" (24" effective) bars that come in sizes from .600 to .900 in .050 increments.

As found here: http://www.mpdracing.com/categories.php?category=SPRINT/TORSION-BARS-{47}-SWAY-BARS
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:23 AM   #156
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swaybar spring rates

Strongbad
Your onto something there and Claude would be the guy to ask his bars are hollow and indeed if one preloads at all it turns into a spring, Claude being a former sprint car guy must have and idea how much bar is enough.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:45 AM   #157
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Strongbad
Your onto something there and Claude would be the guy to ask his bars are hollow and indeed if one preloads at all it turns into a spring, Claude being a former sprint car guy must have and idea how much bar is enough.DB
I did communicate with Claude a while ago and he was the guy who pointed me towards sprint car parts. That was back when I first got my rig and with the stock suspension there was a tremendous amount of "monkey movement" with the big GSA. Rather than going straight to fabricating a swaybar system, I opted to have my buddies over at Works Performance build shocks for my tug and tub. The new suspension went a very long way towards making the rig handle well. I think also putting several thousand miles on the rig may contribute to how the rig and I perform. All of that being said, I am still interested in how a swaybar may contribute to my set up. I personally feel kind of bad calling someone at his shop and picking his brain and then going off building it myself. If someone is willing to share their knowledge via the internet, that is different.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:45 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipper421 View Post
remover rear tire ground the casting slag down make a 1/4 inch plate that fits flush same on the out side find the center and drill small pilot hole remove both pieces and drill 1/2 inch hole outside gets tubing welded to it a 1/2 inch bolt goes back to front 1/2 inch grade 8
i will take some pics tomorrow if you let me no what you would like
Zipper. The only thing we do differently is we use a larger plate to spread the load out over a larger surface area. There are rocking movements trying to take place here so surface area is important ... more so the farther out the link is from the rear end housing. If you do this make sure you bevel the back sides of the plates to fit the surface it will be mounted to. Otherwise potential issues could arise. Remember It needs to sit flat with no wobble.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:08 AM   #159
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I did communicate with Claude a while ago and he was the guy who pointed me towards sprint car parts. That was back when I first got my rig and with the stock suspension there was a tremendous amount of "monkey movement" with the big GSA. Rather than going straight to fabricating a swaybar system, I opted to have my buddies over at Works Performance build shocks for my tug and tub. The new suspension went a very long way towards making the rig handle well. I think also putting several thousand miles on the rig may contribute to how the rig and I perform. All of that being said, I am still interested in how a swaybar may contribute to my set up. I personally feel kind of bad calling someone at his shop and picking his brain and then going off building it myself. If someone is willing to share their knowledge via the internet, that is different.
Yes plagiarism has its limits,personally it may not matter that much if the bar is not preloaded but they get stiff fast when preloaded, I think Zippers bar is very nice but I'd want splines at each end and a drilled bar, but since he's not doing a GSa perhaps he won't need as much travel.DB
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:54 PM   #160
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Your fabrication skills are amazing! I am now trying to teach my red box to play like your blue one.
Is there by chance a BOM? I have a tubing notcher and bender from my gocart days. I would like to know the diameter and thickness of the major pieces. I have looked at all nine pages(oops, 11), an amazing trip. If I missed them, I apologize.
Thanks...Ken

simmonsk133 screwed with this post 02-28-2013 at 08:55 PM Reason: I don't count too well.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:24 AM   #161
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tubing

the tubing sizes are 1.500 and 1.250 120 wall dom
these two sizes will slide into one another so you can double up for extra strength
not sure about the bom part sorry
glad you liked the build
hope this helps
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:33 AM   #162
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The body

What are you up too Zipper ? have you started cutting out the body panels ? DB
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:52 PM   #163
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Yes, That is a big help. BOM is old army for Bill of Materials. As in
20' 1 1/2x.120 chrome-moly, 10' 3"x1/4" mild steel plate, etc.
Once again, thanks for showing your project....Ken
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:14 PM   #164
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Db

i have been working on the exhaust
when i made my sub frame i made it close to the exhaust
knowing that i could cut up the exhaust after and make it clear
i thought it would be stronger that way
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:44 PM   #165
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update

everything is out to powder coat
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