Help with oill filter removal!!! - Page 3

qman8 · 01-01-2013, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Leave the filter alone, the flange/lip of the filter closest to the engine, a little different color in that picture...chisel on that, trying to twist the filter once it crumples is wasted energy. If you just barely move it, it will come out.

Thanks...Although using a chisel, I'd be a bit afraid of damaging the sealing flat of that soft aluminum engine case!...Then I'd REALLY be pissed!!!!

larryboy · 01-01-2013, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qman8

Thanks...Although using a chisel, I'd be a bit afraid of damaging the sealing flat of that soft aluminum engine case!...Then I'd REALLY be pissed!!!!

Take it to the dealer.

Thread closed.

Murkidi · 01-01-2013, 04:59 PM

take it to the dealer and pay for the removal of the oil filter, waranty wont cover that we mess around with the bike the oil and filter change are supost to be done by the dealer untill the waranty is over, but at this point is safer that take it to the dealer to avoid any damage.

as a mechanic from the dealer here in venezuela once said to me, that they love people like us that we do every thing to our bikes beacause from time to time we mess up something and then we end up at the dealer feeling shame of what we did and spending money at their shops

manuel....

WindSailor · 01-01-2013, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryboy

Take it to the dealer.

Thread closed.

If it is that tight - that's what I would do...

After my first 600 mi service at the dealership; I had to use a filter wrench and a filter tool at the same time to get mine off. Currently when I change the filter I just make it good and snug - which is less than the specified torque value...

def · 01-01-2013, 06:29 PM

I have never let a dealer perform an oil change on any engine I have owned...ever. I don't trust them. An oil/filter change is a procedure that is easy to botch.

I have removed plenty of dealer installed oil filters that have been installed waaaaaay too tight. One bike I worked on had the filter so tight that the dealer told the owner, "We changed the engine oil but the filter was OK so we didn't change it and we didn't charge you." The filter was tight to the point that the dealer didn't want to mess with it. It was obvious because the filter canister was distorted from the dealer's attempt at removal.

There are unscrupulous dealers out there who have techs who don't know shit from first base. Your tight oil filter is likely the result of one of those techs.

When installing an oil filter, I first remove the new filter flange gasket, inspect it, refit it to the filter groove and install the filter onto the engine. Once the flange seal contacts the engine face, 2/3 turn is all that is needed to seal the filter and insure drama free removal at the next oil change.

The oil filters on my cars and diesel MH engine come off with gloved hands...no tools needed.

hillbillypolack · 01-01-2013, 07:31 PM

Do I even have to ask if you were using a filter wrench?

There's not enough purchase on the sides of the filter to get a strap wrench on, or a ChannelLock without rashing up the castings of the engine.

Chisels? Screwdriver poked through? Jeebus.

If you do your own oil changes, invest $15 in one of these and save yourself the agony next time.

BTW, (JVB, chime in here), be sure to slick the gasket with a drop of oil, and torque to proper specs.

JimVonBaden · 01-01-2013, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hillbillypolack

Do I even have to ask if you were using a filter wrench?

There's not enough purchase on the sides of the filter to get a strap wrench on, or a ChannelLock without rashing up the castings of the engine.

Chisels? Screwdriver poked through? Jeebus.

If you do your own oil changes, invest $15 in one of these and save yourself the agony next time.

BTW, (JVB, chime in here), be sure to slick the gasket with a drop of oil, and torque to proper specs.

11nm.

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_24K.html

Jim

johnny80s · 01-01-2013, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qman8

That wont fit a 1200 GS!...hell you can barely get anything between the filter skin and the surrounding heat sink fins.
Also, If i cant twist it with a 2 foot long, 1/2 inch ratchet, then I doubt these would help anyhow! (which is how I broke the filter wrench!)

I used it on my 07 GS. I guess I am just more talented. :)

billdonna · 01-02-2013, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by def

Once the flange seal contacts the engine face, 2/3 turn is all that is needed to seal the filter and insure drama free removal at the next oil change.

+1

I too only use the 1/2 -2/3 turn past contact on all oil filters on all my equipment. Never had removal or leak issues.

11nm torque setting?....Only BMW is that anal to spec a torque setting on a friggin' oil filter.

JimVonBaden · 01-02-2013, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdonna

+1

I too only use the 1/2 -2/3 turn past contact on all oil filters on all my equipment. Never had removal or leak issues.

11nm torque setting?....Only BMW is that anal to spec a torque setting on a friggin' oil filter.

I don't use a torque wrench either, but since someone asked...

Jim

Britome · 01-02-2013, 04:24 AM

I see no reason why the 3 finger tool wont fit. You don't have the tool that is referred To or you don't know how to use it. Your problem is solved in 30 seconds. I've used that tool numerous times on 1150's and 1200's for me or my friends.

jsb223 · 01-02-2013, 06:46 AM

I used a proper METAL filter wrench and drilled three sheet metal screws through the wrench into the filter.

Worked like a charm.

It was on my 1150

Steptoe · 01-02-2013, 09:40 AM

It's too late in this instance...

But never resort to puncturing the filter by any means. You're stuck if it doesn't work.

One method i've used, and posted about severel times in the past, is to wrap a sheet of sandpaper or wet and dry around the inside of the filter removal tool, and then hit it onto the filter.
Then a long bar on the removal tool and hold a constant high pressure and the filter WILL give.
Sometimes it can take up to 30 seconds before you feel it give, but it will.

This method has never failed me in 25 years of removing recessed filters from BMW's.

GS Addict · 01-02-2013, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steptoe

It's too late in this instance...

But never resort to puncturing the filter by any means. You're stuck if it doesn't work.

One method i've used, and posted about severel times in the past, is to wrap a sheet of sandpaper or wet and dry around the inside of the filter removal tool, and then hit it onto the filter.
Then a long bar on the removal tool and hold a constant high pressure and the filter WILL give.
Sometimes it can take up to 30 seconds before you feel it give, but it will.

This method has never failed me in 25 years of removing recessed filters from BMW's.

+1 the key is to patient and wait for it to give.

Whale Rider · 01-02-2013, 02:28 PM

Your lucky its a 1200 I have removed 1 from an 1150 that the filter had been that overtightened that the outside can was spinning at the crimp around the outside edge and leaking oil every where. What you need to do is bust off all the outside of the oil filter then the element itself will drop out and the spring etc now you can see all the holes where the oil gets into the outside of the filter. Now get a piece of steel and weld 2 pins the correct diameter for the holes in the right spot so that you can push it in from underneath and undo that sucker. You can use the new filter as the template to make the tool. You do not need to weld anything on the bike.
I think this happens when the filters are put on dry. Always oil the gasket surface on instalation of a new filter.
Good Luck
WR

01-01-2013, 04:59 PM	#33
Murkidi R1100GS adict Joined: Nov 2010 Location: Caracas, Venezuela Oddometer: 196	take it to the dealer and pay for the removal of the oil filter, waranty wont cover that we mess around with the bike the oil and filter change are supost to be done by the dealer untill the waranty is over, but at this point is safer that take it to the dealer to avoid any damage. as a mechanic from the dealer here in venezuela once said to me, that they love people like us that we do every thing to our bikes beacause from time to time we mess up something and then we end up at the dealer feeling shame of what we did and spending money at their shops manuel.... __________________ '95 R 1100 GS

01-01-2013, 07:31 PM	#36
hillbillypolack Grumpy Old Goat Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Lidsville Oddometer: 4,359	Do I even have to ask if you were using a filter wrench? There's not enough purchase on the sides of the filter to get a strap wrench on, or a ChannelLock without rashing up the castings of the engine. Chisels? Screwdriver poked through? Jeebus. If you do your own oil changes, invest $15 in one of these and save yourself the agony next time. BTW, (JVB, chime in here), be sure to slick the gasket with a drop of oil, and torque to proper specs. __________________ I found Jesus. He was behind the sofa the whole time. 1996 M900, "Patience" 2012 GS "Sonar" 2008 Megamoto "Big Blue" 2008 S2R "WTF"

01-02-2013, 06:46 AM	#42
jsb223 ADV Rookie Joined: May 2006 Location: Waco, Texas USA Oddometer: 1,004	I used a proper METAL filter wrench and drilled three sheet metal screws through the wrench into the filter. Worked like a charm. It was on my 1150 __________________ R1150GSA DRZ400S DRZ400E

01-02-2013, 09:40 AM	#43
Steptoe steptoe Joined: Feb 2004 Location: london, England Oddometer: 2,155	It's too late in this instance... But never resort to puncturing the filter by any means. You're stuck if it doesn't work. One method i've used, and posted about severel times in the past, is to wrap a sheet of sandpaper or wet and dry around the inside of the filter removal tool, and then hit it onto the filter. Then a long bar on the removal tool and hold a constant high pressure and the filter WILL give. Sometimes it can take up to 30 seconds before you feel it give, but it will. This method has never failed me in 25 years of removing recessed filters from BMW's. __________________ www.gsshop.co.uk

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01-01-2013, 06:29 PM	#35
def I have little to say Joined: Feb 2004 Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama Oddometer: 6,310	I have never let a dealer perform an oil change on any engine I have owned...ever. I don't trust them. An oil/filter change is a procedure that is easy to botch. I have removed plenty of dealer installed oil filters that have been installed waaaaaay too tight. One bike I worked on had the filter so tight that the dealer told the owner, "We changed the engine oil but the filter was OK so we didn't change it and we didn't charge you." The filter was tight to the point that the dealer didn't want to mess with it. It was obvious because the filter canister was distorted from the dealer's attempt at removal. There are unscrupulous dealers out there who have techs who don't know shit from first base. Your tight oil filter is likely the result of one of those techs. When installing an oil filter, I first remove the new filter flange gasket, inspect it, refit it to the filter groove and install the filter onto the engine. Once the flange seal contacts the engine face, 2/3 turn is all that is needed to seal the filter and insure drama free removal at the next oil change. The oil filters on my cars and diesel MH engine come off with gloved hands...no tools needed.

01-02-2013, 04:24 AM	#41
Britome Get Free Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Cincinnati, OH Oddometer: 735	I see no reason why the 3 finger tool wont fit. You don't have the tool that is referred To or you don't know how to use it. Your problem is solved in 30 seconds. I've used that tool numerous times on 1150's and 1200's for me or my friends.

01-02-2013, 02:28 PM	#45
Whale Rider Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Location: DownUnderNZ Oddometer: 91	Your lucky its a 1200 I have removed 1 from an 1150 that the filter had been that overtightened that the outside can was spinning at the crimp around the outside edge and leaking oil every where. What you need to do is bust off all the outside of the oil filter then the element itself will drop out and the spring etc now you can see all the holes where the oil gets into the outside of the filter. Now get a piece of steel and weld 2 pins the correct diameter for the holes in the right spot so that you can push it in from underneath and undo that sucker. You can use the new filter as the template to make the tool. You do not need to weld anything on the bike. I think this happens when the filters are put on dry. Always oil the gasket surface on instalation of a new filter. Good Luck WR