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Old 09-11-2010, 10:04 AM   #1
Asianrider OP
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Tour d'Afrique - and then some

Well, 2 months on the road already and here's the start of my RR. I'm stuck in Georgia, with a shitty weather that hinders my plan to go to the mountains - I'm talking about Georgia in the Caucasus, mind you, not the birth place of Coca-Cola. So why not share the start of my trip. Here's the plan. It starts in Marseille, France (I'm Swiss but live - was living - in France), and it reads clockwise.

Unlike most people "doing" Africa from here, and although I'm just 5 minutes away from a ferry to Africa, I'm not jumping for it straight away. Instead, I want to ride some countries that I've always wanted to visit. The Balkans, the Caucasus and the Arabian Peninsula. So this is going to Africa - but much more.

Also, I'm starting in summer, not the best time to cross north Africa. The plan is to follow the seasons with the Balkans in summer (hot but good weather in principle, then Turkey (probably too hot in the low plains, OK in the higher altitudes) and the high passes of the Caucasus toward the end of the summer, before hitting Iran and the Arabian peninsula in fall/winter when the temperature is more bearable.

I'll be going solo. Last trip was with a buddy, and it turned out that we split after 6 months, and the solo part was just as great. So let's avoid the awkwardness and be on my own. But as it turned out, I would be joined by a girl-friend riding pillon for one month, so that's also a nice open possibility.

About the itinerary, there are a few difficulties added, but should be doable. I'll need a carnet for Iran, but I can afford that and I definitely want to go to Iran. On the other hand, I'll give Egypt a miss, with their extortionate carnet fees, border difficulties, escort and mandatory ferries. In this plan there will be 2 sea crossing: the Persian gulf, from Iran to Dubai: there is a regular ferry line, it's been done already. And the infamous gulf of Aden, from Yemen to Djibouti. Yemen itself may turn out to be tricky, by the time I get there, the situation may be completely different from now, so this I will have to manage when I get there. But Yemen may be the highlight of the trip as well.

About the bike: I bought a brand new F800GS, with all bells and whistles. the last trip (see link in the sig for the blog) was on a Tenere, but it ended up requiring a fair bit of mechanics which - let's face it - I'm not really good at. So I'm betting on a robust bike that will get me a good way through the trip before it start to require some heavy work - Insh Allah.

By "bells and whistles" I mean the dealer threw in for free the whole package: board computer, ABS, central stand, etc.. I don't care about the first one, a bit worried about the second one, I guess only the central stand will be really useful. I'll find out if that was a mistake. On top of that, I've added a extra fuel tank (20 liters, from Touratech), expensive but pretty convenient in those remote places that I plan to visit. And a pair a Caribou cases and rack, departing from my theory of only using soft luggages for robustness. But I'll be alone, so it will be useful to be able to lock some of the more expensive items. Again, no experience with it, so it's a gamble.

As usual, way too much stuff. I ordered some knobbies to start with - but then changed my mind and decided to use the road tyres as long as possible, so I've accepted the inconvenience of carrying the tyres with me.

As it turned out, I changed them in Istanbul, to make room for my girl-friend on the rear seat. But I could have bought tyres in Istanbul so that was really unnecessary. And maybe too early, or too late, but I'm getting ahead of myself.

For those who read French, this trip's blog is in my sig. For the rest of you, I'll post the (rather uneventful so far) story and photos here.
2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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Old 09-11-2010, 12:28 PM   #2
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This looks to be quite an adventure and I'll be following along with keen interest.

I am curious about your Africa East coast portion, in particular, the Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania portions. I have family based out of Uganda, and would like to explore some of the east coast portions of Africa and will have lots of questions for you about routes, border crossings, currencies, fuel, etc.

If you could, please let us know what you are taking along for personal/riding gear (boots, helmet, clothing, camping) and how it performs for you.

Good luck and a safe ride!
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:40 PM   #3
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Thumb Karibu Tanzania

Sounds good. I'm subscribed. Particularly keen to hear how the pre-Africa part of the trip goes... Turkey & Iran for instance. Take time to take pics!

There are several bikers in Tanzania with lots of accumulated wisdom (wait, a wise biker? that's an oxymoron). Anyway, drop a line if you have any questions on route planning etc. or stop by Dar es Salaam for a beer
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:49 PM   #4
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This one should be interesting one, especially the Yemen part, can't wait to get to that part of the trip
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:08 AM   #5
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The Balkans

Gosh, time to catch up with the thread, I have to make do with the crappy Iranian connection.

So off I went direction the Balkans, where I had some hopes to find interesting roads and friendly people. I did in fact find both. It started with along leg across southern France and northern Italy (18 euros for a night in a camping, you know why I didn't stay). I quickly crossed Slovenia, giving the motorway a miss to avoid the mandatory vignette, and a quick stop at a biker's place in Croatia, to catch up with him. But Croatia is too touristy for me, so I headed inland for Bosnia, where I could stay at a another friend's place.

The problem with Bosnia is the heavy police presence, with many speed traps and speed limits that are difficult to follow (hmm.. where did the town end, is it still limited to 40 km/h?). Otherwise, the people are very friendly, and eager to go out and buy you a beer - or more. I didn't do any offroading though, mosty because the weather was yucky, but also because there are still landmines left in some places.

I left Bosnia for Montenegro by a small border post to avoid the coastal road and Dubrovnik - again, too crowded. I ended up above the Kotor fjord, with the storm looming over it. This fjord has a very small road running around it that is very enjoyable.

This area is pretty touristy, though, and so a bit expensive (note that Montenegro is using the Euro, so that's convenient but doesn't make it cheaper).

After a night in a campground and a quick visit of Kotor, I took the very scenic roads above Kotor, beautiful scenery with nice hairpins.

I was then heading toward the mountainous inland, on small but very nice roads. The scenery is alpine, beautiful and people are very welcoming, even offering me the village's main hall for sleeping and parking the bike. Highly recommended. Sorry, no offroading either.

Time to move to the "piece de resistance", Albania. I meant to go to Kosovo, but the border post I had picked was in fact closed. After a very nice night at a farmer's in an alpine meadow, I chose a hidden border post that is not sign posted, so I had to ask the locals for the "granitsa". I think I woke up the border guard in his siesta, as I was probably the only "customer" for the day. The border formalities were quick and easy, and the tar just vanished once I stepped into Albania. In fact, they were grading the road on the Albanian side, so no car could get through, and I just barely managed.

This thing is, on the Montenegro side, the roads are pretty good, it could be Austria or Switzerland. But once you cross the border, you end up in a high valley (Vermosh) where little or nothing had been done to make the roads usable by a vehicle - as opposed to horse carts. The people are very hospitable - although communication is difficult, some Italian may help.

The descent to the coast was very tricky, the roads are really steep with big rocks all over the place. I crossed a group of Polish ATVs who should have had much fun, but on a big, heavy bike this was much work. Witness the first fall off of the trip, all right.

But I wasn't content with it, so I went back straight up to Tethi valley. Again, the mountains are pretty steep, and they made almost no engineering effort to make it passable for vehicles, so it makes for a very bumpy ride - but beautiful nevertheless.

At Thethi, I decided to keep going and do the full loop -looking back I think it was too much work, if I had to redo it I would trace my way back on the same road. I took me the best part of the day in mostly 1st gear, sometimes 2nd, to make it through without breaking the bike or the baggage.

Back on the coast, there is a "normal" road, mostly tarred (lots of road building), but also a lot of traffic and many radar-wielding cops. I just followed the locals and slowed down where they did.

There was one very enjoyable stretch of gravel, though, leading to Barja Curri. Not very long, but nicely graded so lots of fun. A bit later, my stomach started to complain about the local food, and I had to stop to get it out - and I'm not making this up - just a few kilometers before this village:

On the last day, I took a very small and winding road (called "scenic" on my map) which led me to Ohrid lake and the border with Macedonia. When I say "winding", that's in a very annoying way: they just put tar on the existing horse cart tracks and made no effort to straighten it up even slightly. So it's got very sharp bend with uneven tar, usually blind so you don't know if you will face a truck, a drunk driver or a bunch of goats getting out. Not very enjoyable unfortunately.

But the Albanians are really nice people, although not really into biking at all, except for a few antiques.

Macedonia: I won't say much about it, I crossed it pretty quickly. More of the former Yugoslavia kind of organization, roads, language, food and beer.

In summary, the Balkans are a very nice place to go on a motorbike. The "adv" from ADVrider isn't quite there, but there is nice roads and scenery, friendly people, little border and police hassle and quite cheap beer (1 euro) and petrol (1.1 euros) so highly recommended.

Next post: Turkey. Yeah, I crossed Greece in 1 day, not so friendly and too expensive. I was done with Europe.

PS: the photos are geotagged in the picasa albums, and the route I followed is there.
2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:50 PM   #6
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I´m in. BTW I like your approach to gear testing

(stolen from your blog):

P'tain merde, ma moto toute neuve! from Laurent Bendel on Vimeo.

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Old 09-27-2010, 10:46 PM   #7
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:22 PM   #8
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What an amazing adventure you have planned. All the best for it.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:34 AM   #9
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I'm late with my stories, I'm almost out of Iran, but before that was Georgia and Iran. What a change from Turkey during Ramadan: the first night I stayed in a small village and I've been treated with vodka and "wine". At least that's what they call "vino", but that was easily the most awful wine I've ever had. Many Georgians brew their own wine, but very few know how to do it properly. But the welcome is very nice, and the bottles eventually were emptied after many long toasts.

That's pretty much a mandatory experience in Georgia, where people are very keen to know you and drink with you.

The border crossing between Turkey and Georgia (Vale - Posof) is very easy, there's not a lot of traffic, and the only problem was to find the guy who knew how to process the bike in the Turkish customs computer. On the Georgian side, it took just 2 minutes and I got a free 3-months visa. Nice. On the down side, I was immediately reminded of the terrible state of the roads. Just like most ex-soviet republics.

The country has tons of churches and monasteries to visit, but really, my plan was to get directly to the mountains for some serious riding. That was a good idea because I had about 1 week of great sunshine before the weather deteriorated and pretty much threw me out of the high roads. That was early September, and as I learned later, they've had 2 months of solid sunshine previously. Too bad.

The first trip was the loop to Svaneti, a high valley in north-west Georgia. I decided to do the loop counter-clockwise, so starting at Lentekhi with the really hard pass that most people don't get to, descending then on the usual road. Finding the head of this road wasn't that easy, and a policeman was kind enough to lead me around the roadworks, and in fact I had zero problem with the police in Georgia, they mostly stay out of the way.

Quickly after this last town, the tarmac disappears, as the road goes up a long valley across small villages.

The gravel isn't that good, it's difficult to pick up speed as there are often deep potholes that are best negotiated in 1st gear - or risk to break something. But the scenery is beautiful.

No risk to get lost, as there's really only one road. But it's nice anyway (and it's in English).

Eventually the roads gets steeper, and the scenery even more impressive, with 5000m peaks in the background.

The farmers were picking up hay in the high meadows. They had finished and were preparing the picnic, so of course I was invited to eat a khatchapuri (cheese pancake) and drink some chacha (the home-brewed alcohol, ranging anywhere from 20 degrees to 80 degrees).

That was really difficult to refuse, but I quickly departed before I had too much. The road got worse here, with pretty tricky spots.

The chacha hit me back a few klicks further on as I had my first fall off, on a pretty steep stretch with big round and wet rocks. Very tricky even when 100% sober.

No biggie, but quite painful to pick up the loaded bike my myself. I had to be more careful. The road was getting higher, closing the 3000m mark. I relaxed on a flatter stretch with innocent-looking puddles when..

This time I could have avoided it, there was a narrow stretch of grass that was passable. But who could have expected the big hole inside the hole ?

With wet feet I attacked the last steep and tricky stretch, without incident this time, and reached the (flat) pass.

Ushguli was right below, and that's also the last village reached by people who don't drive a 4x4, so there are a couple nice (if not cheap) guest houses.

The next morning I went down the (much better) gravel road to Mestia, and had my first real accident in one of the villages: a dog ran after me (as they all do), but because the road was so bad there, I couldn't outrun it and it took a good bite at my leg. I didn't fall and got away without much bloodshed, but those white shepherd dogs are huge and really nasty. I had a few more encounters, but never that close. Watch out, they love the bikers!

Yes, it wouldn't have been so bad with motocross boots, but for this trip I'm riding with hiking boots, and I still don't regret it.

No big deal, I quickly reached Mestia, the region's main town, which is pretty awful: they're building a lot of new tourist infrastructure, and it's a mess.

From there on the road was being rebuilt in concrete, which is too bad for us riders, but unavoidable if you want to get the tourists up there. Hundreds of cement trucks were going up the road. Fortunately, a few kilometers down I found a wonderful flat valley with a natural mineral water spring where I could pitch my tent.

The next day I was back to Kutaisi, closing the loop. A fantastic road for offroading, not to be missed if you get there.

Next on my list was Kazbegi. The road to get there is asphalted, so not so interesting. But the highlight was the ride to the monastery at the foot of the Kazbeg mountain. Fantastic sight.

Unfortunately, that's when the weather turned to crap, and that was the last of my mountain roads. I got a rain check for the Tusheti (north-east Georgia), so I have an excuse to come back.

That was probably a bit late in the season, so I headed south to Armenia.

PS: is it possible to embed a video ? here they are in case:
Svaneti and Kazbegi.
2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:43 AM   #10
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I'm totally hooked - Great pics!
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:04 PM   #11
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Very cool looking trip. How do you feel about riding through Niger ? Can't wait to see the pictures.
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:30 PM   #12
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It sounds already a great trip!

Good luck and keep us up to date


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Old 10-10-2010, 01:32 PM   #13
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Any issues with bandits in the Svaneti area?
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Old 10-19-2010, 01:38 PM   #14
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Bandits ??

what with the bandits, where did you get this from ? are you talking about Suzuki bikes ? because there aren't any in Svaneti, at least none that I could see or have heard of.

2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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Old 10-19-2010, 01:42 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Osadabwa
Sounds good. I'm subscribed. Particularly keen to hear how the pre-Africa part of the trip goes... Turkey & Iran for instance. Take time to take pics!

There are several bikers in Tanzania with lots of accumulated wisdom (wait, a wise biker? that's an oxymoron). Anyway, drop a line if you have any questions on route planning etc. or stop by Dar es Salaam for a beer
I'm looking forward to seeing Tanzania. Will I be able to get new tyres when I get there ? I'm not keen in carrying a spare set all the way through Africa..

Thanks for the invitation. Cheers,
2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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