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Old 01-04-2013, 04:29 PM   #16
sevenpointsixtwo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gplassm View Post
I owned a 1998 Triumph Thunderbird Adventurer, which had much the same 885cc engine. I ran into a couple of problems at mileage close to what you have on yours. First, the alternator drive failed. The gear bolt on the clutch side just shears off. There is an "upgrade" which consists of a new, hollow splined shaft, and a long, grade 8 bolt that goes all the way through the new shaft, with a lock nut on the end. Installing this shaft is a bit tricky, as you have to carefully push the old shaft out with the new one. Any "backing off" or releasing of pressure will allow the sprag clutch assembly to drop, requiring engine removal, and case splitting to re-install. Fortunately, mine went in easily.
Another issue I ran into was the neutral indicator stopped working. This was due to the switch tip contacting a rotating brass plate that is affixed to the shift drum. The tip eventually wears a groove in the plate, and contact is lost. This can be temporarily remedied by replacing the aluminum washer underneath the switch with a thinner one.
I also started encountering strange electrical issues - the idiot lights would start doing strange things, and the headlight would go out intermittently. I tore the wiring harness apart, and found some questionable wiring practices (unsoldered junctions - just twisted together). I was never able to permanently repair the wiring, and intermittent opens, and I eventually sold the bike.
There were also issues with the 885's of this era losing the sprag clutch entirely. Mine held out, but I would recommend that you keep a strong, healthy battery in that machine at all times, as this is the best defense against premature sprag wear.
Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely keep an eye on the electrics for any weirdness. From what I've read, the alternator rattle is readily apparent at idle, and I didn't hear it; that's not to say it can't happen, so another thing to be on the lookout for! I will have to ask the previous owner exactly what work was done to the sprag clutch; supposedly the issue was fixed, but I'm not sure if it's still at risk. Definitely planning on keeping the battery charged though; as I've read, that's best practices for this bike and may prevent a major issue.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:38 AM   #17
gplassm
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There was an "upgrade" to the sprag clutch part number, so, hopefully, the previous owner installed the upgrade. Those motors are simply *amazing*, though. I loved mine. The chassis and electrical work left a bit to be desired, though. I modified mine with a ZX-7 shock, and it worked pretty good. The seat was horrible for anything over an hour, and there was zero aftermarket support, so that was one of the things that pushed me towards selling it.
I always like the older Tiger's, especially the green ones, but you will find that Triumph's of that era have some teething problems that are quite unlike normal "motorcycle" problems. For me, I just finally had enough after a couple of years of ownership.
Those motors, though... they are really something special. Mine seemed to be very "tight" (a good thing!) compared to normal motorcycle engines, and run a bit hot, so keep a close eye on your cooling system as well.
Good Luck with your new Tiger!
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:53 AM   #18
mustang
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Originally Posted by sevenpointsixtwo View Post
First things first; pics!



Paperwork complete!


It was listed as a 1997 Triumph Tiger on Craigslist, but the title actually says '98 model year. 28,300-ish miles. It's been well looked after by owners who know Triumphs and took good care of it. Supposedly the sprag clutch was "taken care of" (whatever that means) and valves have been checked, and there was no DAR to speak of when we fired it up. It's been jetted and is running a K&N filter, and supposedly pulls strong (it was 0 degrees out - too cold for a test ride!). New-ish Shinko 705s, center stand, bash plate, corbin seat, hard top case, soft panniers and tank bag included.

The ugly: presumably due to ethanol in the gas, the paint on the fuel tank has bubbled and started to flake off. It needs a complete repaint job, but I'm concerned that it would just happen again. Is there a way to properly seal the tank so that paint will stick and be resistant to this? On the cheap, preferably. I'm thinking rattle-can tan or OD.

All in, $2000. I'm thinking that's a helluva deal; what say you inmates in the know?
.if it's a 97 it would have mikuni carbs , 98's and only 98's had Keihin carbs . 97's had Kayaba suspension also front and rear .
98's had showa .
your photos though are of a 98 paint scheme , the 97's had white lettering with no black . and the 97's were a brighter red (Pimento I think was the color name)

this is a 97 ................

if the sprag clutch was truly dealt with it would have been an engine out split the case affair to replace the sprag with the improved version .

98's had the new sprag which was a bigger diameter . and even though it was "improved" they can still fail . Trying to start it with a weak battery is usually what kills them .

but to confirm if you have a 97 or a 98 just look at whats on it for carbs and suspension .
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:15 AM   #19
Mr Grumpy
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I rode, or rather thrashed,one of those Tigers around the Le Mans race circuit at a triumph test day.
The only other bike that put more of a grin on my face that day was the Speed triple, it's a very capable road bike.
I've been considering for quite some time about buying a "vacation bike" to leave at a friends place near Buffalo & that model Tiger is top of the list.

For a no frills paintjob try bed-liner.

Enjoy.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:15 PM   #20
sevenpointsixtwo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang View Post
.if it's a 97 it would have mikuni carbs , 98's and only 98's had Keihin carbs . 97's had Kayaba suspension also front and rear .
98's had showa .
your photos though are of a 98 paint scheme , the 97's had white lettering with no black . and the 97's were a brighter red (Pimento I think was the color name)

if the sprag clutch was truly dealt with it would have been an engine out split the case affair to replace the sprag with the improved version .

98's had the new sprag which was a bigger diameter . and even though it was "improved" they can still fail . Trying to start it with a weak battery is usually what kills them .

but to confirm if you have a 97 or a 98 just look at whats on it for carbs and suspension .

Thanks Mustang! This one has Keihins, so definitely a '98 then. The manufacture date might say '97 which is why the seller thought that. Even better deal then!

I've read quite a few of your Steamer posts; do you make a high fender kit or is that a one-off? I might have to pick up some lower pegs at some point though...

Safe and sound in Mark's barn:


It's a Steamer alright!


Yeah, that's going to need some bedliner.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:29 AM   #21
markbvt
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Haha, those pictures make my barn look even more crowded with motorcycles than it really is. There's still room for a few more.....

And how cold was it that day? 20 degrees? Hence the copious amount of steam the Steamer is putting out. Got to say, though, I was impressed that it started right up despite the cold. Getting my Bonneville started at 20 degrees would probably be impossible.

And here it is in its final winter hibernation spot:


--mark
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:23 AM   #22
Mulewright
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I had a '96 Tiger for several years.Overall I Really liked the bike. a few personal comments are coming forth for your info based on My experiences.
A. Buy & install a Shindiggen MOFSET regulator from Roadster Cycle (he's on the web as that) This will help your batteriy and charging system issues more than anything else you can do for the bike. Much Better output @ low rpms, and quite a bit easier on the batteries. They also offer a "Smart" voltage / idiot light that works well to keep a eye on the charging system .
After installing a Deeka AGM battery I had No more electrical issues.
B. My scooter had Mikuni carbs that I put a Dyno Jet full kit in. REPLACE the poliot Jets!! The stock ones have a ultra fine screen in them & you will hub hell if you do not throw them away! I had to pull the carbs 3 times on mine before I figured this out. NOT a 1/2 hour job!!!!! Especialy the 1st time or any other time on the side of the road. (DO NOT ask me how I know this!).
Also, keep check on the A/F box integrity! 3 of the 4 units i put on the bike developed cracks in them within 2 years of installing them... damn near dusted a motor over this .
C. Adjust the valves Religiously On Schedule & tell them to err to the "Loose side" especialy if you spin the motor much over 6,500 rpms ... They WILL close up on you!
D. The sprag clutch you've heard of ..... there are also Primary Chain Issues that will surface around 35,000 mile intervals. Be Aware of any dull "Clunking" noises that it starts making.... I did it 2 times & told the current owner about it & he blew me off...Untill the chain snaped breaking the crankcases , oiling the tire, and locking up on him on the I-road about 80 one evening.....
E. Change the fork oil! If you let it go you'll be replacing slider bushings. do it 15,000 miles or 2 years. Racetec springs & Gold Valves are a worthwile upgrade... made a LOT of improvement to me.
F. Hagon shock & spring for the rear is a very good "Bang for the Buck" outlay at aprox. 35~40,000 miles
G. Coat the inside of the tank & use DuPont Imron (the stuff they use on crop dusters) to re paint it. no more paint issues due to spilling anything on the paint.
H. I used Rotells Synthetic(Blue Jug) exclusively in the motor and changed it at 5,000 miles w/ filter

Untill the current owner thru the primary chain, it was doing fine at 138,000 miles.

I hope you enjoy yours as much as I did mine.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:33 PM   #23
LeighSA
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D. The sprag clutch you've heard of ..... there are also Primary Chain Issues that will surface around 35,000 mile intervals. Be Aware of any dull "Clunking" noises that it starts making.... I did it 2 times & told the current owner about it & he blew me off...Untill the chain snaped breaking the crankcases , oiling the tire, and locking up on him on the I-road about 80 one evening.....

. To my knowledge these engines don't have a Primary Chain, they are gear driven!! Do you mean Timing Chain???
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:58 PM   #24
Mulewright
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No, I mean the chain between the crank and the transmission.by their description of where it was inside the motor.
A smaller version but like in a 204 transfer case.....
At least that's what the folks at the dealership said it was when they showed it to me after replacing it.
1st one done in Jackson Ms., next one in Little Rock, Ar., 3rd one in Jackson again.
Each time the "Noise" went away for over 30k miles.
The only other thing I can think of that it could Possably be is a counterbalancer chain.... but I saw the cam chain when adjusting the valves and it was way different than it.
I do know that they had to split the cases to do it each time.
I never saw it coming & going... It was easier for me to pay to have it done VS. finding the time to do it Myself at home...
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:08 AM   #25
mustang
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there are only two chains on a steamer and neither needs the "cases split" to replace
1. the cam chain
2. the final drive from countershaft to rear wheel

thats it ............the gearbox and clutch are gear driven from the crankshaft
the balancer is gear driven also .
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:27 AM   #26
tigerrider
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Wow, that's a great price and the best year for a Steamer. I rode my '98 for almost 10 years before Mustang added it to his Tiger stable.

Was the '98 the first with the black concentric adjuster also? I wasn't sure if the '97 came like that.

If you haven't stripped off any body work yet, a word of advice...be careful with those tank panel mount screws!! With those rubber grommets, you do not have to make them that tight at all. If you are not careful, the threaded mounts will come lose in the tank body and that kinda can suck.

Great bike! I miss mine but a Caponord is doing a good job making me happy now. :)
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:00 AM   #27
mustang
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Great bike! I miss mine but a Caponord is doing a good job making me happy now. :)
It's still haulin the hack , you should see the rear tire going on it this spring

can you say Darkside it's friggin wide
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Old 02-11-2013, 03:18 AM   #28
whittrated03
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That's a great deal! You have a bike that can take you anywhere you need to go....kinda a JOAT , like the Strom'. Run good oil and tires and you'll get many good miles.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:19 AM   #29
tigerrider
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It's still haulin the hack , you should see the rear tire going on it this spring

can you say Darkside it's friggin wide
Should I be worried? I know that swingarm is wide though..

I still miss her!!!

(I just do not miss changing the air filter or lining up the middle carb)
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:31 AM   #30
mustang
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Should I be worried? I know that swingarm is wide though..

I still miss her!!!

(I just do not miss changing the air filter or lining up the middle carb)
She still purrs like the day I got her from you ............
Out of all the Tiggers in the lair , she gets ridden the most .
It's that giant saddle bag with a wheel on the right hand side that does it.

I'll send ya a pic when the new giant ass back tire is on .
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