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Old 03-21-2014, 07:58 PM   #1
RUSTYtankerBEAN OP
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Location: Rapid City, SD
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CT90 $750.00 Challenge

I think this is the correct for to post this so I will start here. Long story short: I was trying to get some friends to go on a short adventure ride with me but everyone said it was to expensive...I then came up with the idea that we can only spend $750.00 on a Honda Trail 90 to do the trip and everyone to my surprise was all for it. We plan on doing a large portion of the Dakota Adventure Loop. http://www.dakotaadventureloop.com Here is the first pictures of our start and the builds.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

The breakdown so far is.
$200.00 For my yellow one....no title
$275.00 for Obies orange one...title
$25.00 for Mikes red frame...no title

Plan is to buy lifan 125cc engines and swap them in. Let the fun begin!!!

Aaron
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:06 PM   #2
Dorzok
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Originally Posted by RUSTYtankerBEAN View Post
I think this is the correct for to post this so I will start here. ...
Aaron

would fit here. but me thinks some assembly required would be better.

then link to the RR when done with the build
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:06 PM   #3
fullmetalscooter
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is that a custom air box ? seem to exit up by the rack . someone made it so they can fords steams ??
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:18 PM   #4
DaBinChe
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Originally Posted by fullmetalscooter View Post
is that a custom air box ? seem to exit up by the rack . someone made it so they can fords steams ??
No, they were made like that, along with the high pipes.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:00 AM   #5
topless
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Do yourself a favor and convert those to 12v, using the Lifan electrics. It's easy to do and you get to use standard light bulbs. The headlight gets rid of the sealed beam 6v, and goes to a housing with replaceable bulb. My first Lifan, I bought the parts to keep the chassis 6v, it was fine till the headlight burned out, then I had to buy the replacement light anyway. Dratv.com has everything you need. You will want to run bigger front sprocket because the new motor will make more power, but be limited by rpm for top speed. There is a yahoo group that is only for Honda clone motors in old Hondas. Look for Honda_clone on yahoo. Lots of help there.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:02 PM   #6
RUSTYtankerBEAN OP
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Thanks for the advice!! I have not done the research yet on what gearing I want. We would all like to be able to get up to 55-65 if possible. Any suggestions on front and rear sprocket? We all planned on converting to 12v and replacing all lights with LED's.


Aaron
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:12 PM   #7
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I made some progress!! I already LOVE working on this thing...from complete to stripped down it took me an hour...minus the forks..I need a spanner for those.

Engine and fuel tank off!!!
[IMG][/IMG]

All Stripped down...minus forks...and ready for sandblasting!
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:24 PM   #8
climbamt
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Here are a couple of other threads from the last year or two that might offer some additional insight on your project.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840664
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881177


Looking forward to following your project and subsequent adventure!

~climbamt
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:26 PM   #9
RUSTYtankerBEAN OP
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Thanks!! You guys are a ton of help!!

Aaron
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:10 PM   #10
climbamt
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Howdy,

Just skimmed through the thread on the TAT on CT90's. There is an after action review on page 13 that has some good advice.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...881177&page=13

~climbamt
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:13 PM   #11
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Obie just sent this to me, all washed and in his house ready for tear down.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:30 PM   #12
pnw
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I picked up a Ď68 this weekend and plan to do a couple legs of the WABDR with it, son on xt225, son in law on ? (maybe Iíll pick up another CT). I was planning to do the lifan engine swap but after getting the bike I want to keep the dual range gear box. I had never seen one in person until I picked it up, it is tiny! It is dwarfed by the xt and even bicycles in the garage. After sitting on it I think the original engine and 40-50mph max will be fine, I canít imagine going 60+ on one. Mine doesnít run (no spark) but it is all there and in decent condition - for $150 I canít complain, I think I will have it running with maybe $50 more in it (plus tires/tubes). Iíll be watching your report for ideas.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:13 AM   #13
topless
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My first one got a Lifan 140 making 13+ hp, I ended up using a 17 tooth front and making a 40 tooth rear fit from another old Honda, also upped the chain size for more strength. It ran about 70 mph flat out and still, pulled wheelies. However, because it had such high compression, I bent 3 different kick start levers and it finally stripped the kick start gears out, so I pulled it back out.

What I did learn about the original motors is you can up the power some with a larger piston and different cam. This gets about 1 more hp maybe a little more, but let's you keep the 2 step gearbox and not sacrifice reliability. The downside is you are still stuck with the funky 6v electrics that can be very touchy. When they run right, they are a blast. Mine went 2 years like a top, then suddenly the electrics went to pot, and it's been sitting every since. One day I'm just going to buy an new wiring harness and stop chasing bad connections in a 35 year old one.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:25 PM   #14
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Mike has his in the kitchen ready for tear down!

Could a MOD move this to "some assy required" I feel its a better fit there after thinking about it.

Aaron


[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:55 AM   #15
DeepBarney
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Thumb Well Hello There Fello CT'ers

Gentlemen may I suggest: http://hondatrailcts.yuku.com/directory#.UzvGhKJTYcY

The info and people there can help you through just about any question you may have. I have been rebuilding one since about August as time allows. Its an all function, 'what's form?' kinda bike.

To give you an idea of what can be done with these bikes though:

I bored out the cylinder and went with a 54mm piston over the stock 50, so now its 104cc. Replaced the stock cam with one from a 110 ATC. Cam profile seems the same at first, but the 110 cam has much more duration with little to no more lift, so it works great with the stock valve springs and will really give it some more low end kick. Replaced the stock carb with a PZ22 (22mm) off of ebay (Chinese clone of a Mikuni). Should pull hard through all the gears and top out around 55 on the flats. Before it was 40-45 in full tuck flat to down hill with no wind or with it at my back.

If I hadn't already bolted it back together I'd go back and blend the combustion chamber, port the intake and exhaust runners more along with the lower end of the intake manifold, and try to port match it all where I could. But as it is I really don't want to go through the fuss of pulling the head and putting it back on again.

The lifan route is also a great way to go. I considered it but went with the stock engine so I could have the fun of tearing it down and building it up with 'go fast' parts (with these bikes go fast is relative). But if you're looking into the lifan option the best way to go is probably the 125. You can get it as an auto clutch or manual if you want (140 and up are all manual), to me a lot of the fun of these bikes is the auto clutch style shifting but to each his own. Its super easy to kick and start (no high compression and kick back like the 140's and up). Dead nuts reliable and will pull 55-60 depending on gearing and conditions. I plan to pick one these up to throw in my bike if I ever decide to take it for a longer trip than just the trail riding I plan to use it for.

I also fitted 3-17 Shinko 244's front and rear. The rear just barely clears the fender walls and rubbed the center stand with the stock length chain. A new set of aftermarket replacement shocks along with 2-3 extra links on the chain will remedy this though. The front just barely fits between shock tubes, but requires the removal of the fender. I simply made a fender out of some old license plates I had laying around (work well, may not be road legal).

There's plenty of other upgrades that can and should be done. The Radio Shack Rectifier mod for one (or Digikey is the new better way to go I guess) IF you're sticking to the stock motor and 6v system (I did this one as well). You can add a capacitor inline with the battery, will allow you to start the bike even if the battery is dead (these little CT's are SUPER dependent on having a good charged battery to start and run, but this remedies that along with the rectifier upgrade). Upgrading to the roller bearing head shaft bearings will make it steer and handle much better at speed. There are plenty of options for the front forks as well. CB125's with the manual disc swap right over and ad an extra inch of travel. Or with a bit more work xr100 forks will swap in and give much more travel and better suspension up front. Really, there's plenty of options for different front forks since honda uses a lot of the same size for the their fork stanchions. There's even a guy who sells stiffer springs that go in place of your current ones on the website I mentioned earlier.

Also if it wasn't mentioned before DR ATV (dratv.com) is your friend, though you can often find some of the items on ebay for the same or less with free shipping (just check the details to make sure its exactly what you need).

Good luck! I look forward to seeing your builds and the eventual ride report.

Edit: A set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bits are essential if you plan to work on the engine, regular phillips will strip the bolt heads near most every time. I ordered some JIS bits from Vessel and am stupefied at how much a difference they make. (Again not an issue if you go with the Lifans)
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DeepBarney screwed with this post 04-02-2014 at 03:04 AM
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