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Old 04-02-2013, 09:07 PM   #151
c.vestal
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Short notice in front range CO.

http://www.meetup.com/Colorado-Sprin...ker-community/
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:52 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by garandman View Post
Makerbot is already selling a fully assembled system, MakerBot 2 and 2X, which has the upgrades necessary to run ABS with support material.

There's still an immense difference between what the commercial systems can do and the basic maker-grade machines. Temperature control is critical, so building in an open chamber is always going to result in quality issues.

Nice looking upper.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:04 AM   #153
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Nice looking upper.
I'm not going to post the link, but there's a guy that has 3d cad files for the lower on the interwebs. PM for link if you're interested.
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Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #154
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I'm not going to post the link, but there's a guy that has 3d cad files for the lower on the interwebs. PM for link if you're interested.
There are many: three or four on grabcad alone.

Building a plastic lower that costs double a machined aluminum part and lasts a few rounds isn't all that appealing to most people.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:29 PM   #155
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But would make a really cool airsoft gun!!!! If you have the money to burn.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:42 PM   #156
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There are many: three or four on grabcad alone.

Building a plastic lower that costs double a machined aluminum part and lasts a few rounds isn't all that appealing to most people.
100+ rounds on auto so far with continuing R$D.

Buying a CNC that costs 40x a 3d printer isn't appealing either.

Just options. Like the upper pictured.
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Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:48 AM   #157
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100+ rounds on auto so far with continuing R$D.

Buying a CNC that costs 40x a 3d printer isn't appealing either.

Just options. Like the upper pictured.
The "3D printer" the Defcad lower receiver was made on cost at least $100,000 - probably more. It's a 3D Systems sterolithography system and appears to be a large one.

There's no way a maker-grade machine is making any of the above. The machines we use to make parts like that [non-functional] upper start at $15,000.

Boston Craigslist has three three-axis CNC mills for sale for $6,500 to $12,000. Manual mils are for sale for $1,200 and up.

Making plastic parts on 3D printers works great. Replacing metal parts with 3D printed plastic parts is not so easy.

Just made these "Big Feet" for a camping chair. Cost a few bucks each for materials and I had them in an afternoon. That's the real promise of the current technology in my opinion.
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:53 PM   #158
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Thought I'd share this neat trick I learned to make prints stick to the table better. I've been experimenting with ABS in my Mendelmax 2.0, for no other reason than that's what I ordered... I'm getting better results with less warpage the more practice I get, but this little trick has been by far the most useful thing for successful prints.


First you need to make up some of this splooge. Its nasty smelling but cheap and effective. Find a container and fill it about half full with Acetone. Gather up a bunch of your ABS scraps and dump them in there, put the lid on, and shake it up. After a while you are left with a slurry like this:











Once you have the slurry, use a cotton ball and spread it around the glass. Do a few even coats, crossing directions. Seems to work a lot better if the bed is SORTA warm- maybe 40-50 degrees.



Bed before prep:






Bed during and after:








Run a print, then watch as we peel it off. It can be really hard to get off while the bed is still hot, plus I've noticed that parts seem to warp more if I pull them off before they have had a chance to cool.














Print removed:





Take a razor blade and clean the skin stuff off. Kind of a pain in the butt because it static-sticks to EVERYTHING.



Cleaned up print!





Great use for old scraps. The stuff stinks to high heaven but has been pretty effective. Next best thing I've found to prevent warpage with ABS is cranking the bed temp WAY up- I start my prints at 90 degrees Celsius so I don't have to wait for hours for it to heat up and start the print. Once the print has started I crank it up to 100, although it really struggles to get that hot. Still get some warpage that way, but hey, I'm impatient.


Next up- another (yup, another... the first didn't work out, well, at all...) attempt at acetone fuming.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:22 PM   #159
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Nice progress!!!
I heard of it called ABS Juice. Lulzbot has a specific ratio they recommend. It worked great on the Kapton Tape until I messed up the tape. I peeled off the Kapton tape and applied the ABSjuice. I was getting the same result as you. Every time the coating came up with the part. I had to re-apply every time. frustrating.

I researched and found some folks having good luck with a sugar solution. This did not work for me.

I then found people have been using hair spray with good luck. I applied 3 good even coats. Made a print let it cool, part popped off. Hair spray stayed on the glass! I applied a thin coat as a precaution just to freshen up the surface. I likely did not need that last light coat. I have over 30 prints on the same application of hair spray without having to touch it since.

I also suggest trying painters tape and no heat. This was the only way I got PLA to stick thru the end of the print.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:27 PM   #160
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Wait till you see the rest of the helicopter!

The hairspray is for PLA, right? When I first started I just had a few scraps of PLA. I printed on the bare glass with the bed at 55 degrees- and DANG was it hard to get the prints off! Didn't need any type of sticky stuff.

The ABS though... I have to put fresh coats of this stuff on every time. If the hairspray is working for ABS, I will definitely give it a go. I don't mind putting fresh coats on every time, but I really don't like cleaning up the mess off the finished prints.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:58 PM   #161
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Hair spray = ABS magic for me.
Painter Tape = the only thing that works for me with PLA.

There are tons of discussions full of opinions for what brand and type of hair spray to use.
Me, Suave extreme hold. I could not find the unscented. Smelled for about a day. Now when I heat up, no smell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Wait till you see the rest of the helicopter!

The hairspray is for PLA, right? When I first started I just had a few scraps of PLA. I printed on the bare glass with the bed at 55 degrees- and DANG was it hard to get the prints off! Didn't need any type of sticky stuff.

The ABS though... I have to put fresh coats of this stuff on every time. If the hairspray is working for ABS, I will definitely give it a go. I don't mind putting fresh coats on every time, but I really don't like cleaning up the mess off the finished prints.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:27 PM   #162
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are you trying to get the part ot stick or release?
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Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:05 PM   #163
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Stick. ABS doesn't stick to the glass well and warps pretty bad too. This helps.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:28 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
are you trying to get the part ot stick or release?
Goal is to stick while printing, then release when finished.


Hairspray keeps getting tacky each time I heat it up.
Then when cools it becomes a bit more stiff and allows the part to pop free.

My next test is to etch or sandblast the glass.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:50 PM   #165
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So here's the project I've been toying with for the last week or so. Been experimenting with Sketchup and all of the cool plugins- taught myself how to skin shapes, joint push/pull, and a few other tricks I scrounged up to make this work.

Also have become a lot more proficient at understanding the Netfabb software and repairing exports .stl's. Getting the printer set up and running now has become a breeze, although I am still playing with Slic3r settings trying to get things more better-er.

Helicopter time. There was honestly no real thought put into this effort, and it shows a bit but I think it turned out nice. Started with a blade, printed it, made the next part, printed it, saw how it fit, made changes if necessary, and here's the final product.

Sketchup files:







Printed parts. I made a different tail than the one pictured here...



Get a tube of crazy glue and start assembling.

















Plan on printing something to replace the screw, but for now...





Again, I've got a different tail now.





And fully assembled with the old tail.



Learning all sorts of things. Need to keep the bed temps up higher to prevent warping- very noticeable on the body halves. Tolerances aren't quite what I'd like- sometimes printing a 2mm hole the hole turns out more like .5mm if the z-axis isn't set just right for the first layer. More my problem, probably should set up some endstops.

All in all, I'm still very impressed with the capabilities of the Mendelmax 2.0. The quality I think is great, but I don't have any other prints from other printers to compare it to. Speed is very adequate, reliability for me so far has been a non-issue. I have had a few bugs to sort out, but they have all been solely electronics related. The worst problem I've encountered so far with the hardware end of the printer is the belts- the printed tensioner on the y axis tends to twist a bit and the belt started to rub on the side of the frame. Adjusted it once and it's been fine ever since. Still need to install my updated z-axis parts too.

My students are working on their Sketchup projects right now, so I'm hoping to start running their prints by this time next week!
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