KLR650 Engine Rebuild Photos and Questions!

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by larryboy

Did I miss the oil pump inspection? Hate to see you waste the engine again with a scored pump.

Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)

[DirtyDog]

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

...Continue with the socket theme, but fashion one that "pulls". Use a series of sockets and some threaded rod or a bolt. You can press that seal right out with no issues. Check out the MarkNet KLR site for a pictorial.

Originally Posted by rectangular

I'm not sure I follow. That was the old seal that we had to drive out. It's the way the Clymer manual specifically described removing the old seal. We ended up punching a hole through the old one accidentally trying to remove it. It was easy enough to remove by just using a larger drift which spread the force over a larger area.

I really like the tip for tracing the outline in cardboard and placing the bolts in the cardboard. Seems like it completely prevents any chance for future error!

Look at the link I provided above. Tough to describe without pics. I've removed the seal with both methods. At this point, I prefer a puller over a drift on any such removal... bearings, seals, etc. Slow, even pressure vs. smacking a pointed object against a delicate one. Makes sense to me.

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

Look at the link I provided above. Tough to describe without pics. I've removed the seal with both methods. At this point, I prefer a puller over a drift on any such removal... bearings, seals, etc. Slow, even pressure vs. smacking a pointed object against a delicate one. Makes sense to me.

I see! Yeah, that does actually seem like a lot better way to remove or install. Keeps it nice and even, much less chance of it getting jammed. I'll have to remember that next time I have to install a bearing or a seal. The water seal in this instance seems like the perfect use for this method.

[Kawidad]

Originally Posted by rectangular

Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)

It's a good idea, but..........

If you used silicon or such on the gasket, I'd leave it. The bike only has 12k on the clock and you found the reason for the oil starvation. You didn't note excessive metal, which would have trashed the oil pump. Gummy worms won't. If you just used the OEM gasket, then it wouldn't be a bad idea, but not really necessary. Personally, I'd run it.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by rectangular

Ahhh... crap.

Is this something I can defer to after my 20-minute break in? I'll be checking the oil screen at that point too.

(I think I already know the answer to this...)

I wouldn't risk it, if the top end was starved of oil, so was the pump. The bottom is splash lubed, the pump is a metal on metal type of pump, it has to have oil to lube itself. It's one wasted gasket, take it apart and check it.

[ADW]

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

Also, I've noticed these K&N oil filters don't fit worth a damn. Go with the Hi-Flo variety instead.

No, go with an OEM oil filter from Kawasaki. Oil filter aftermarket manufacturers only have to make an oil filter they think you'll buy. Kawasaki's oil filters have to pass a validation test developed by Kawasaki that ensures it will stand up to temperatures, pressures and flow rates that Kawi knows for that engine.

EDIT: no slam meant on DirtyDog, BTW.

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by larryboy

I wouldn't risk it, if the top end was starved of oil, so was the pump. The bottom is splash lubed, the pump is a metal on metal type of pump, it has to have oil to lube itself. It's one wasted gasket, take it apart and check it.

Will do. It shouldn't take very long anyways. I'm getting pretty familiar with both sides under the engine covers.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by rectangular

Will do. It shouldn't take very long anyways. I'm getting pretty familiar with both sides under the engine covers.

If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket. The oil pump surface should have a mirror surface, use a hand impact driver to get the screws out.

[ADW]

Originally Posted by larryboy

If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket.

A tip I learned a while ago is when you're putting on a new gasket, coat one side of the gasket with a light film of grease. Just a light apply, not much. That will be enough to prevent it from sticking to the metal when you remove the cover again someday but won't hinder it sealing.

I tend to grease the side than goes toward the engine, not the case. This is because it's easier to scrape the gasket off a case that you can take to the bench or whatever than the engine itself.

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by larryboy

If you're careful you might be able to save the gasket. The oil pump surface should have a mirror surface, use a hand impact driver to get the screws out.

I don't have a hand impact driver :(

Originally Posted by ADW

I tend to grease the side than goes toward the engine, not the case. This is because it's easier to scrape the gasket off a case that you can take to the bench or whatever than the engine itself.

And it won't cause issues with coolant leaking? Interesting. I might have to give this a shot.

Also, I haven't found a definitive answer if the side cases on the KLR should have silicone gasket maker (rtv bond/hondabond/etc) applied to the paper gaskets or not. Are the paper gaskets just applied as is? Seems strange to me.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by rectangular

I don't have a hand impact driver :(




And it won't cause issues with coolant leaking? Interesting. I might have to give this a shot.

Also, I haven't found a definitive answer if the side cases on the KLR should have silicone gasket maker (rtv bond/hondabond/etc) applied to the paper gaskets or not. Are the paper gaskets just applied as is? Seems strange to me.

Then use your biggest fattest phillips head and tap on the handle with a hammer while turning. Impact driver is about $10, can be found everywhere.

The only place a KLR engine needs sealant is the center cases, no paper gasket there, you found the result of using too much goo on the center cases. A dab of RTV on a new valve cover gasket will help hold it to the cover when you install it, don't go crazy, apply long before you want to put it back on.


Awesome tip on the grease idea, ADW!!

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by larryboy

Then use your biggest fattest phillips head and tap on the handle with a hammer while turning. Impact driver is about $10, can be found everywhere.

Edit: Nevermind, the oil pump is phillips head. I follow now.

Also, I'm probably going to be going in and checking on the oil pump tonight. Anything specific that I should look for once I remove it?

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by rectangular

Make sense. Although, the KLR side covers are held on with 8mm hex bolts though.

Oil pump man, come on, I'm trying to help you here.





Scoring, it should have a mirror finish...no lines of any sort.

[rectangular]

Originally Posted by larryboy

Oil pump man, come on, I'm trying to help you here.





Scoring, it should have a mirror finish...no lines of any sort.

Yeah. I'm a little slow today.

I figured out what was going on once I started looking up pictures of the oil pump.

[Kawidad]

Don't forget to prime the oil pump after disassembly.