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Old 01-09-2013, 01:02 PM   #16
FlyingPenguin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
Mill the new cover to match the old profile. Use a thin punch to pierce the filter from the inside out.

That should produce no swarf and still give the sensor a pressure source to read from.
Without a seal on the punched end of the filter there is direct path for oilto bypass the filter.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
I had thought that the oil entered through the rubber grommet to the inside of the filter, and flowed outward into the filter chamber. The system diagram on page 2-2 in the repair manual, seems to show that flow direction.

Am I looking at this wrong? Is the flow actually inward from the filter's outer surface, and out through the rubber grommet at the inboard end of the filter?

Or, maybe am I just confused about your meaning?
Oil flows from out to in. That is why the filter is compressed when the water pump seal shits the bed. Like someone mentioned earlier if the op uses the cover for oil pressure it will not show a loss of pressure when the filter clogs. It may show an increase but that may not register the needed enthusiasm to turn off the engine due to low oil at the bearings. If you really want to do this right OP, find an oil pressure source after the filter.

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Old 01-09-2013, 02:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by azcagiva View Post
Oil flows from out to in. That is why the filter is compressed when the water pump seal shits the bed. Like someone mentioned earlier if the op uses the cover for oil pressure it will not show a loss of pressure when the filter clogs. It may show an increase but that may not register the needed enthusiasm to turn off the engine due to low oil at the bearings. If you really want to do this right OP, find an oil pressure source after the filter.

-John
Thanks John, VERY helpful post.

Sounds like drilling the oil filter is the way to go. With the protrusion plugged into the inside of the filter, I'll be reading pressure directly *after* the filter.

Actually the more I think about this, the more it seems like more trouble than it's worth (modifying every filter before use). I think I may just do what the HOW says and tap a thread into one of the chain tensioner caps....

Jdeks screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 02:06 PM
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:02 PM   #19
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I'm betting there is a filter out there that already has the other end opened and gasketed. And I would assume that is what the race teams are using with that cover.


Personally... I wouldn't go near the filter with any drill. The one little chip that is missed MAY be all that is needed to take out a bearing.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:05 PM   #20
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Punch it don't drill it. That said the metal form the end is softer than the bearings so it won't destroy a bearing. The bigger problem would be blocking one of those oil jets in the motor.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:33 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ciedema View Post
Punch it don't drill it. That said the metal form the end is softer than the bearings so it won't destroy a bearing. The bigger problem would be blocking one of those oil jets in the motor.

Softer,,, really??? Unless KTM uses some sort of different bearing material than everyone else, bearings are three layers. The steel shell, a soft aluminum base and a softer aluminum plating. Once the plated bearing surface gets damaged it doesn't take much more to wear down the base aluminum. That soft chip of tin from the end plate of the filter will do one of three things: pass through the oil gallery and embed into the bearing and not be an issue for the most part. Pass through the oil gallery and be spun around the bearing, scoring the surface with every revolution. Or make it some other point in the engine; maybe a good spot or maybe not.

I wouldn't take the chance. I have dealt with bearing issues in bike engines and marine engines for going on 40 years.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:56 PM   #22
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I wouldn't take the chance..
I did say punch it. I wouldn't take the chance either.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Penguin74Q View Post
Without a seal on the punched end of the filter there is direct path for oilto bypass the filter.
Correct. But with the new cover milled to the original profile, the original seal can be used, eliminating that problem.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by azcagiva View Post
Oil flows from out to in.
...
Good to know.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:54 PM   #25
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Guys, thanks for your advice. In the end, I did neither - went with the bored out cam chain bolt option (as per cpmodem).

All your (very valid) cautions about debris made it seem like too much of a hassle to have to drill out every new oil filter.

What I'll do with this oil cover now though I don't know. Oh well.

Thanks for all your help
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:56 AM   #26
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Use a 2012 690 oil cover it has the oil pressure sender , job done no drilling .
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:17 AM   #27
azcagiva
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdeks View Post
Guys, thanks for your advice. In the end, I did neither - went with the bored out cam chain bolt option (as per cpmodem).

All your (very valid) cautions about debris made it seem like too much of a hassle to have to drill out every new oil filter.

What I'll do with this oil cover now though I don't know. Oh well.

Thanks for all your help
Put the cover in the flea market. It looks like someone might be able to make an oil cooler feed from that for a rfs. Or another ktm.

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Old 01-10-2013, 09:30 AM   #28
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Contact Scotts Performance (818) 248-6747 . Speak to them, they make custom oil filters all the time. They could make a filter open at both ends.

Hell, they could thread the protrusion on your rally cover to thread directly into the filter they make for you.

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Old 01-11-2013, 09:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdeks View Post
Guys, thanks for your advice. In the end, I did neither - went with the bored out cam chain bolt option (as per cpmodem).

All your (very valid) cautions about debris made it seem like too much of a hassle to have to drill out every new oil filter.

What I'll do with this oil cover now though I don't know. Oh well.

Thanks for all your help
If you are looking to move it on I'll take it off your hands. PM me. if not can you supply the P/N?
That part is very similar to the part on the 690rfr that I have and guess what - I punch the filter centres out and use an O ring to seal it. The stock KTM690rfr filters have a blank end - hole punch leaves no swarf to contaminate the motor. Its good to go. Please say you'll sell it......
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