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Old 01-20-2015, 05:01 PM   #1
slicktop OP
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Help me pick some good bars

Looking for a nice handlebar, 1-1/8"x 7/8"x 800mm.
I'm using a stock Reikon but am open to others. I have looked at solid bars and flex, but don't know what may be preferred.
I need grips too.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:28 PM   #2
jonnyc21
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Not sure what bars are best but unless your using it for trail only riding I wouldn't expext the flex bars to work well for competition. Just to much flex to give proper push and/or pull durring more advanced riding technics.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:56 AM   #3
slicktop OP
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Thanks Jonny
I am looking hard at the Zeta solid, but will likely get the Reikon again so I am not changing the bend in any way.
Its hard picking a set online, my goal is to replace the bar on my evo with new and put the old set on my husq wr.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:50 AM   #4
laser17
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Im skeptical of solid Al bars on a trials bike. I can see them on a buzzy street bike, but not one i'm constantly crashing on. I want the durability and fatigue resistance of a good trials bar like Renthal trials 100. (close to the dimensions of the zeta low - not sure which ones you have.

laser17 screwed with this post 01-21-2015 at 10:28 AM Reason: Renthals arent steel dummy.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:13 AM   #5
DerViking
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I have been amazed by the resiliance of the modern aluminum bulge bars. Many of the general moto sports manufacturers offer a trials bend, usually $70 or so. I have been very happy with my stock gas gas bars. I think they are renthals? My 07 has hit the ground more than any bike I have ever owned, and never bent. My old 7/8 set, despite comiCal wall thickness, bent like a noodle in a get off.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:53 AM   #6
slicktop OP
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The Renthal fat bars are pretty nice.
I'm giving Jackscycle a call today and see what Stu recommends, hopefully he wont push Jitsie.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:46 AM   #7
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerViking View Post
I have been amazed by the resiliance of the modern aluminum bulge bars. Many of the general moto sports manufacturers offer a trials bend, usually $70 or so. I have been very happy with my stock gas gas bars. I think they are renthals? My 07 has hit the ground more than any bike I have ever owned, and never bent. My old 7/8 set, despite comiCal wall thickness, bent like a noodle in a get off.
Ditto. The new tapered designs with no cross bar have been fantastic and very durable. They could bend I suppose in a hard crash, but I see little of that and have not experienced any bends personally, whereas in the old days of 7/8" bars and crossbars, I have bent several right at the crossbar. I could bend them back with a wallop from a very heavy board, like a nice, dense 4X4, in a direction opposite the crash hit, but it's sure nice to not be doing that these days. Then again, I rarely ever crash big, and when I do I tend to hold onto the bike so it doesn't drop like a sack-o bricks.

The various minor differences in bends seem something a person can absorb and re program too, but I definitely avoid any bend that promotes an angled-down, 'floppy-ear' feel. Bars are right to me when the grip portion angles up. Most bars, when correctly rotated forward enough will be angle up in the grips, but some won't and are instead more flat. Those I will not buy or keep on a bike.

I've got two different bends on the `10 Econo (generic TXT bars from ~2009) and the `11 Raga (Fatbar Raga bend). Both are similar enough to not be able to pinpoint what exactly is different. Both work very well. I have a very slight preference for the `10 generic bars.

As for grips, having tried a bunch over many decades, I have come to detest all fatter grips and grips with lots or ribs and projecting bits. I have very large hands.

I prefer first the Hebo black trials grips, but they are hard to find. Next choice is the simple S2 black trials grips. I don't use Renthal grips any more because the material tends to break down after a while and become sticky and dirty looking. On the dualsports I use a Scott grip that is very small in diameter and similar to a trials grip. The only real difference is the diamond pattern in the center is slightly larger than a trials grip and more grippy. Too grippy for trials.

One last bit. I put real talcum powder inside my gloves (corn starch powder is not as good). I never get blisters.
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Old 01-21-2015, 08:44 AM   #8
laser17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicktop View Post
The Renthal fat bars are pretty nice.
I'm giving Jackscycle a call today and see what Stu recommends, hopefully he wont push Jitsie.
haha. That would be even funnier if Jitsie didnt also distribute Renthal!

FWIW: I own Stu's old 11 raga bike and it has Renthals on it. I've been amazed many a time at the beating they can take.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:53 PM   #9
slicktop OP
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Good info there Bene. There's a lot to consider with a new set of bars. It would be nice to have a trials trade show and someone build a bar simulator that would adjust to all the bends offered.
Lazer, I might have the bars off the bike you mentioned, and they are jitsie.
Stu said he saved them due to how nice he rode with them off one of his rigs. I hope your bike is not the one that bucked him just right. haha
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:17 AM   #10
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicktop View Post
Good info there Bene. There's a lot to consider with a new set of bars. It would be nice to have a trials trade show and someone build a bar simulator that would adjust to all the bends offered.
Lazer, I might have the bars off the bike you mentioned, and they are jitsie.
Stu said he saved them due to how nice he rode with them off one of his rigs. I hope your bike is not the one that bucked him just right. haha
One of the problems with bars is no standardization on how to measure them. Look at web sites that sell bars. Buying then based on the few dimensions provided is an exercise in futility. You are forced to buy and try. Or better yet, just use what the other fellow has that you can try.

Then there's the big variable of rotation position, which affects ALL of the important specs but width. Get this position wrong (mostly that's rotated too far back) and even the best bars won't overcome the self handicap.

One great thing about modern trials bars that come on the bikes OEM is that they are all within a small window of pretty right with minor differences. Leave the trials realm and the bars are all over the place with such descriptions as 'KX High.' Then the riders tend run them back and 'floppy eared' with the lever then way down too.
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Old 01-22-2015, 06:18 PM   #11
slicktop OP
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Roger that Bene. The ultimate goal for new bars is to get another set on my enduro. I'm going from a woods bend that's cut down, to a trials bar full size.
I'll rotate the ends even with the forks at first and see how she feels. I expect the steering to be slower which may be a good thing for my style.
The Husky was set up by Dwight Rudder and I'm not even in the same league. Its quick steering and as narrow as you can go and I understeer on hardpack. So I'm looking to change things up.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:31 AM   #12
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicktop View Post
Roger that Bene. The ultimate goal for new bars is to get another set on my enduro. I'm going from a woods bend that's cut down, to a trials bar full size.
I'll rotate the ends even with the forks at first and see how she feels. I expect the steering to be slower which may be a good thing for my style.
The Husky was set up by Dwight Rudder and I'm not even in the same league. Its quick steering and as narrow as you can go and I understeer on hardpack. So I'm looking to change things up.
Trials changed my preferences. The way I look at it now, it's not just a preference, but trials-biased ergonomics are going in the right direction on most if not all bikes.

How many kid bicycles have we seen with the bars pulled way back? Sitting on their 'banana seats' all the way back the grips hit their knees when turning. Bars forward? Rare. It's an awareness thing.

I went from Expert cross country racing in the late `80s to trials. I had the bars back then and the levers down because that was 'cool.' Kinda like those WWII guys with their military hats stuck on the sides of their heads.

These days all of my bikes have bars more forward and levers more up (no more than 5 degrees down from level). No matter the venue, I have found that to be superior for comfort and endurance. And these days I am a way better fast off road rider than back in the old days, when the cautiousness that comes with age allows me a brief thrill. The trials ergos really help there too.

Even the KLR 685 is biased that way, and its only purpose in life is as a transcontinental mile muncher, camp-and-ride machine. I prefer the stock KLR bars because when I rotate them forward the bar ends are angled up and they feel like the trials bends.

I've shared this pic before, but do so again - forgive me - to show the well forward bar position. When I go full lock the throttle cable whacks the smallish stock windscreen.



Last year I also moved the foot pegs down 1" and back 1-1/2". Big improvement in standing comfort and general tall-person comfort, but I was not bold enough. I should have gone back 2-1/2". There is still some pull back on the hands when standing.
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:09 PM   #13
slicktop OP
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A shot of the canyon and a offroad tourer can hardly get old.
Yea I would rotate the bars up too just to stand comfortably.
I've got a DR125 That I'm lightening for a 4t grunter, I noticed that by reversing sides of the pegs they would set back almost 2". Problem is, the kicker will hit the peg.
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Old Yesterday, 07:55 AM   #14
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicktop View Post
A shot of the canyon and a offroad tourer can hardly get old.

Yea I would rotate the bars up too just to stand comfortably.
I've got a DR125 That I'm lightening for a 4t grunter, I noticed that by reversing sides of the pegs they would set back almost 2". Problem is, the kicker will hit the peg.
On some of these dualsports standing is a real pain because of the footpegs being so far forward. The KLR is a good example of that, and it's so unnecessary. Nothing to gain by pegs far forward and too high up and much to lose. Stand and it's a straining exercise to hold position. A nice feature of the KLR pegs is they can be unbolted from the frame to be refabricated. Here is a view of the modified pegs:



I already had 1/2" back-set Moose pegs. The pegs are right about on the center axis of the big frame through bolt. There was a lot of fabrication work involved in this, so it is a real shame the thick plate I used to move the peg mounts back wasn't made at least another inch longer
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Old Yesterday, 08:09 AM   #15
laser17
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I like the can of chain lube the best. Im waiting for the auto lube feature.... Nice!
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