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Old 01-11-2013, 03:56 PM   #16
SilkMoneyLove
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Duh

Just turn it upside down and let it fall out...duh

OK. my real vote is to follow CONCOURS' endorsement of Sieg's idea.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:33 PM   #17
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Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't it also bring oil under pressure to the bearings????
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:29 PM   #18
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Uh, that don't look right.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:25 PM   #19
Maoule
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That crankcase was prolly wore out anyway...the good news is you prolly don't need to fuck with that dowel any further
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:03 PM   #20
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very important. the case is bored on size with it's mating half... any other half is not in alignment... each case is unique by a few thou
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:56 AM   #21
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How about the bearing shells, could they be also mated to the case/crank? BMW does stuff like that.Someone somewhere found out how time consuming and expensive it can be sorting that out of 2-3 engines and boxes of parts.

So...if we ignore the case damages for now would just pulling that pin out and installing a new one suffice to keep the oil where it belongs?

How big is that hole and is there a lip on the bottom, as in the pin not pushed down far enough to contact the case? Then maybe rig some kind of hammer puller, a small one and carefully bang it out.

Depending on how tight that pin is, can't be very tight if it walked in there? How did that happen anyway? If you pushed it in by mistake, then you'd know how tight it is.

Maybe just roughening up the inside with the proper dremel bit and then installing a bolt/anchor in that hole could be enough to provide some pull.The proper bit probably wouldn't be in the accessories that usually come with them dremels.

Now that you have that engine all apart, did you ever find out why it was knocking? Starting to look expensive, is that high milleage bike worth all that expense of time and money?
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #22
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Its a little late.


could of tapped threads, inserted corresponding bolt and used a slide hammer and heat.



maybe on the next one.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:22 PM   #23
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Is it just me or is anyone else saying why the fuck would you grind a journal away to get a dowel pin out when there are a half dozen solutions mentioned in this thread that would have worked?

First off get some real penetrant, tap it and insert bolt with slide hammer and yank out.

I'd be looking for a used engine at this point.
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:44 PM   #24
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I gotta say, all the reccomendations of tapping the dowel, while a good idea, will not work. Dowels like this one are hardened steel, they are too hard to be tapped. That is why the bolt extractors aren't working, they are softer than the dowel. Trust me, I know. Not long after starting in my current position at work, i was chasing a 1/4 pipe tap hole in a block of hardened steel, before any thread cutting occurred I broke the tap clean off and we had to EDM it out.

If you try to tap that dowel, all you will succeed in doing is having to deal with a stuck dowel with a broken tap in it.

You said that the outside diameter of the dowel is ~3.3mm right, that means the ID is about 1.5 or so? Any tap this small is REALLY easy to break!!
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:26 PM   #25
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He doesnt need to thread it, just get something in there with enough purchase to grab with a vise grip slide hammer. It's barely in there.

I would have welded it first, but thats me and I have a tig welder. I def would not have gone at it with a dremel and wrecked the journal
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:10 PM   #26
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Wow talk about ham-fisted.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:06 PM   #27
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Wow this got expensive fast.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #28
Mike Ryder
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Even I feel decidedly unsettled.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #29
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Well and truly fucked now - at least you got a second hand set of cases.

Blob of weld and pull or spark erosion would have solved this problem - for next time.

Or try an ezee out or tap and if that broke it's just easier to blob the weld on.....
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #30
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OOOOppppppssssss!!!!!
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