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Old 01-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #16
mouthfulloflake
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this might be a good method too

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...93&postcount=2
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:00 PM   #17
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the only other thing I could add to the list is welding... put a piece of rod, screw, etc down one side and tack it with a wire feed. the heat will help too

another desperate possibility is to take a tiny cutoff wheel on a Dremel & cut down one side enough to cave it in & get a bite. it prolly means putting a groove in part of the saddle, but I'm sure there is enough metal so it won't matter
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:08 PM   #18
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An expensive but effective way to remove a hardened dowel if other methods won't work is to take the case to a high end tool and die shop that has an EDM machine. The EDM machine uses a carbide electrode in a fluid bath to eat away at the dowel. The expense would have to balanced against the cost of replacing the case.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:47 PM   #19
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If snap ring pliers won't fit in the hole it's probably to small for the other pliers.
A tap or easy our and some heat to the case sounds like the best plan. A screw probably won't bite, to soft. The dowels are very hard.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sieg View Post
Easy out to grab and turn the dowel, while heating the aluminum case. The case will expand faster and greater than the steel dowel therefor freeing the dowel.
This. Will work.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:56 PM   #21
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Duh

Just turn it upside down and let it fall out...duh

OK. my real vote is to follow CONCOURS' endorsement of Sieg's idea.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:27 PM   #22
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Here's my hasty fuck up with a Dremel.



The extractors are turning out to be too soft themselves to get a hold of the thing. Even with the sides heated up.

Tons of WD-40 was sprayed to seep into the sides to get it to even slide but it's not working.

I'll try again tomorrow.

Assuming that dowel is staying in there, I'm thinking:

1. Grind down whatever little bit it protruding.

2. Make a similar sized hole to the left of the saddle and put the dowel in there.

Something I want to re-itterate. All the dowel is doing is holding the outer race of the shaft bearing in place so the OUTER RACE doesn't spin. I don't know what the pressure is like when the crank case is rejoined, what if I used some gasket material on the saddle just before installing the shaft. Clamped down with the case shut, would that be enough to provide a force to hold the outer bearing from moving?
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:33 PM   #23
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Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't it also bring oil under pressure to the bearings????
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:06 PM   #24
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Cry

It does...
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:29 PM   #25
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Uh, that don't look right.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:25 PM   #26
Maoule
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That crankcase was prolly wore out anyway...the good news is you prolly don't need to fuck with that dowel any further
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:54 PM   #27
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How do you find out if the crankcase is worn?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:59 PM   #28
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Also, the manual mentions that if one half of the crankcase is damaged, the crankcase should be replaced as a whole. How important is this if I come upon a CC half on eBay?
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:03 PM   #29
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very important. the case is bored on size with it's mating half... any other half is not in alignment... each case is unique by a few thou
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #30
H96669
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How about the bearing shells, could they be also mated to the case/crank? BMW does stuff like that.Someone somewhere found out how time consuming and expensive it can be sorting that out of 2-3 engines and boxes of parts.

So...if we ignore the case damages for now would just pulling that pin out and installing a new one suffice to keep the oil where it belongs?

How big is that hole and is there a lip on the bottom, as in the pin not pushed down far enough to contact the case? Then maybe rig some kind of hammer puller, a small one and carefully bang it out.

Depending on how tight that pin is, can't be very tight if it walked in there? How did that happen anyway? If you pushed it in by mistake, then you'd know how tight it is.

Maybe just roughening up the inside with the proper dremel bit and then installing a bolt/anchor in that hole could be enough to provide some pull.The proper bit probably wouldn't be in the accessories that usually come with them dremels.

Now that you have that engine all apart, did you ever find out why it was knocking? Starting to look expensive, is that high milleage bike worth all that expense of time and money?
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