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Old 02-13-2013, 07:41 PM   #16
Red Barron
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Alternate Help

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Originally Posted by SauceSquatch View Post
MPG is pretty much exactly the same. I was actually about to call up Dyno Jet tech to see if there are suggestions to get better MPG.
Obviously I can't speak for either person but I would suggest soliciting some assistance from Tahoeacr or Cyborg. I am going from memory but they did extensive work with their 990 EFI systems. You might want to read through the thread or seek assistance with an AFR table. I would trust their direct knowledge before I would trust the generic knowledge from Dyno Jet.

You are leaving good mileage on the table (or should I say off the table. pun intended) with a straight 13.2. That is rich for even an air cooled Harley at crusing speeds.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceSquatch View Post
MPG is pretty much exactly the same. I was actually about to call up Dyno Jet tech to see if there are suggestions to get better MPG.
What is your cruising engine speed?
You may try to use AFR=14.7 for small throttle openings (TPS = up to 20%), moderate engine speeds (3 - 5k) and top three gears. Leave everything else at 13.2
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:34 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
what is your cruising engine speed?
You may try to use afr=14.7 for small throttle openings (tps = up to 20%), moderate engine speeds (3 - 5k) and top three gears. Leave everything else at 13.2

+1
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
What is your cruising engine speed?
You may try to use AFR=14.7 for small throttle openings (TPS = up to 20%), moderate engine speeds (3 - 5k) and top three gears. Leave everything else at 13.2
I usually cruise at 65-75.

Thanks for the advice I'll have to do some digging on that see if I can find the threads, I'm really just learning on EFI's. I'll give it a shot though, I love the way it's running but the gas usage is pitiful. My Road King used to get at least 45 MPG
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #20
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Finally getting around to doing this... does this AFI mapping look correct?

I don't know much but that seems like a large difference between the two numbers, shouldn't I tapper the numbers gradually up to 14.7 and then down to the 13.2?

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Old 03-10-2013, 01:47 PM   #21
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It looks just fine to me. The software smooths out by interpolation the values between the transitional rpm, so you probably don't have to do it by yourself. But if you notice sudden steps while you ride, then by all means do so! Two or three comments, Firstly, I think autotune suggests to not touch the 0% throttle. Also, maybe it is better to apply these changes only to the top three gears. Finally, have you established that the fuel map converges?


Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceSquatch View Post
Finally getting around to doing this... does this AFI mapping look correct?

I don't know much but that seems like a large difference between the two numbers, shouldn't I tapper the numbers gradually up to 14.7 and then down to the 13.2?

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Old 03-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #22
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You are right, 0% throttle should be left alone, good catch.

I guess I don't understand the software because I'm not sure how to specify for only the top gears. Can't seem to specify individually, I'll call DynoJet support.

On the phone with DynoJet support last time they assured me that the fuel map converges despite being labeled "Cylinder 1".

Thanks for your input!
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:47 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
It looks just fine to me. The software smooths out by interpolation the values between the transitional rpm, so you probably don't have to do it by yourself. But if you notice sudden steps while you ride, then by all means do so! Two or three comments, Firstly, I think autotune suggests to not touch the 0% throttle. Also, maybe it is better to apply these changes only to the top three gears. Finally, have you established that the fuel map converges?
Sometimes I feel so lucky to have this bastard on my side...I'm about to do the same install with PCV and autotune so please don't over boost his confidence for he becomes a greedy soab...
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:04 PM   #24
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I forgot to follow up with this but another inmate's thread made me remember... The supplied KTM map from DynoJet only supports a single O2 sensor, i ended up working with the DynoJet support team and they created zero'd map for both sensors

you can download it here

cheers
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:57 PM   #25
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Interesting thread.
Would you say the throttle on off is nice and smooth now? Better than stock?
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:26 PM   #26
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Interesting thread.
Would you say the throttle on off is nice and smooth now? Better than stock?
For sure 100% better than stock, better MPG and no hick-ups rolling on and off the throttle. I've been able to play with the target AFR and get it lean as possible without stutters. But yes, very smooth now.

I commute everyday to work on this bike all year around and Austin traffic can really suck sometimes and now I never have to worry about stalling or hickups. Same goes for trails.

BUT part of me wishes I took it to Ken Wheeler in Robbinsvile (NC because I was in that area in March) to get dyno-tuned for performance. I'm sure the bike is 95%-99% there because I can still pull wheelies and it's hella fast but the inner hooligan wonders how much faster it could go

I got a deal on PCV and autotune, just picked it up at the right time on ebay for cheap so I can't complain.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:35 PM   #27
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You said the mpg improved, what numbers are you getting now?
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:53 PM   #28
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33-42mpg, the light usually goes on around 138-145 miles. Not life changing improvement but I was getting like 28MPG before running just the acro 2-1 map, light came on around 115-120 miles.

I'm quite sure I could do better than 42 on interstate if I keep it to 65MPH in the 4200-4500 RPM range but I when I'm on a long haul I keep it around 75-80.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:38 PM   #29
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Hints on the header (Although it's too late). You do not need to remove the shock, wheel. Remove the mufflers and mid pipe and flip up the subframe. Loosen the rear header and turn it counterclockwise to the side. This will allow a small window to remove the front. Then remove the rear by winding it out with the O2 attached but unplugged. This is the best method if your going to grind out the bungs to fit the wideband O2's. The grindings will just fall out. This may or may not be quicker but is best for the grindings.

The reason for not Auto Tuning at 0-5% is that on decel nasty things are happening in the header and you don't want AT tuning for any of that.
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