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Old 01-19-2013, 09:29 PM   #16
DuctTape
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Will it crank with the immobilizer/key being dorked?
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:18 PM   #17
Cyath OP
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Hey Gerg! Yes, I have beer on board. It's helping me from losing my shit over this.
Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate all the help.
Petcocks are open and there's plenty of gas. Since I rebuilt the fuel pump, and the filters were dry, I made sure it was nicely covered in gas. Yes, the bike cranks but I can't hear ignition. It's on the center stand with the kickstand up.
I think you're on to something WJR. From the microfiche, it looks like the stator and the pulse generator supply power to the plugs. I'm sure the ECU plays a role someone in there, I don't know much about it.

Like a lot of guys on here, I hate to take the bike in to the shop unless I absolutely have to. The more I know how to service and fix the bike, the better prepared I am when in the middle of nowhere.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:55 PM   #18
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Did you check the line from the on/off button? sometimes a broken wire can get you mad :)
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:05 PM   #19
max384
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Are you sure it's not getting spark? It seems like an incredible coincidence that you just rebuilt your fuel pump and spark is the problem. Any time that something is just messed with and something goes wrong, 99 times out of 100 whatever you just messed with is the culprit.

This being said, the issue with your battery installed wrong muddies up the water. You obviously had a problem with starting prior to the batter SNAFU, so if you're not getting spark, I wonder if it's two separate problems. The first having to do with your fuel pump you rebuilt and the second with the lack of spark (which I would attribute to the battery being installed incorrectly until proven otherwise). If I were you, I'd re-verify that your spark plug isn't firing. If it isn't, that would be my first priority
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:21 PM   #20
Cyath OP
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@max384, you're exactly right. I think I'm dealing with the original reason why the bike wouldn't fire in the first place. Like 99% of the threads on a bike that won't start, I went with a battery check and charge, and fuel pump, you know, the old Air-Fuel-Spark trifecta.
The battery reinstall snafu scorched the 30A fuse*. After I replaced it, it now was back to what was the problem in the first place, that's why I pulled the plug, to see if it was throwing a spark when I cranked the bike.
The plug looks good, it's just not throwing a spark when I crank the ignition.

*Correcting an earlier post. There aren't two 30A fuses at the starter relay, the one you can easily see is the spare, and the hidden one is the functional one. Nice engineering KTM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:27 AM   #21
FtheRedSticker
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It sounds like your problem is the stator. Seems like you have done everything else, fuel, plugs, kill switch etc. if there is no spark at the spark plug then your stator is simply failing to produce a spark. I recently had to replace the stator on my sons 2001 ktm 65sx. I had to go through all of these same checks. The stator was the last thing I wanted to replace because it was a 500 dollar part. Once replaced it fired up first kick.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:33 AM   #22
FtheRedSticker
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This link explains the ignition system well

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...rcycle-stators
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:54 AM   #23
Sporting Wood
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Backfeeding polarity can eat the stater depending on how long you tried to crank it but imho more likely you've shorted out the ecu or the voltage regulator. Swap parts to find out whats fried with another 990 or take her to the stealership, bend over, grab ankles.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #24
HeatXfer
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Not the stator - Has nothing to do with spark; it's just part of the generator which is there to provide power once the battery has started the bike.

And what exactly is backfeeding polarity? Starters are (usually) series wound and not polarity sensitive = can't run backwards by swapping leads. Now if the starter is a permanent magnet type, it will run backwards when the leads are swapped.

HeatXfer screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 09:12 AM
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:55 AM   #25
666
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pickup coil or "pulse generator" in ktms terms? That's the thing which tells ecu crank position. I had that happen on my old 640 adventure.
I am not sure which part it's on 990 , but on 950 it's 60039034100.

It should be easy to test it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:12 AM   #26
pdxmotorhead
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Pardon if I rehash somehting or dont have the nameology of the part right, I'm not a KTM expert, I just fiddle with a lot of engines... :)

Being able to plug into the ECU would tell you something as well. (Kick stand switch bad? you should be able to see the status...)

Does the cluster do the correct little self test dance when you power up the bike?

Check all your fuses with a meter,,, I've had them blow and not collapse so they look ok...

When I hear the symptom you originally had I start with the battery and follow the power with a volt meter to the ECU.
(Electrical harness issues,,, always fun...)

Crank position sensor is the most common reason Electronic ignition stops. And almost NO ECU's can test it...

Cheers.
Dave
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:52 AM   #27
Cyath OP
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Thanks Dave.
Correct, I can't check the ECU. Yes, turning the key turns on the headlamp and the instrument display goes through the self-test sweep. At that point all looks normal. All of the other electrical functions (lights seem to work fine) Fully charged battery and it cranks strong, but no ignition.
I can't find any frayed wires.
On my kid's kick-start DRZ-125, I know where the current for the spark is generated. Where is the source on these EFI bikes? Is it from the battery via the ECU?
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:55 PM   #28
666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead View Post
Crank position sensor is the most common reason Electronic ignition stops. And almost NO ECU's can test it...

Cheers.
Dave
It gets tested with ohmeter. It should have some specific resistance(I dont know this number for 990) and not shorted to ground. Easy test. Unplug and measure.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #29
homerj
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I had a similar ghost in my 950, turned out it was the ignition switch attached to the bottom of the key tumbler. Try hotwiring the bike. directions in the HOW then search for "hotwire".

It's pretty simple to test. If the bike fires, you've got a bad key switch. You can buy a new one and unscrew the electrical portion off the key tumbler, and then attach to your already installed key tumbler.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:35 PM   #30
BELSTAFF
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D'oh

I know this is way to simple but check the position of the ON/OFF KILL switch----- HEY it's happened before---- Don't ask
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