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Old 01-26-2013, 05:29 AM   #16
a2ronm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seniorasi View Post
That does appear to be a nice one. Anyone used this brand and can reflect on longevity?
4+ years, over 50,000 miles on my Kawasaki Versys without a single problem. Put one on my sons VStrom and will probably put one on my latest bike too.
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a2ronm screwed with this post 02-12-2013 at 06:43 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:26 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by duck View Post
About $5:


The electrons don't care how much I paid for it.
Neither do I. Where did you get that>. Suddenly, prices of fuse blocks seems to have gone up as much as $20 to$40. The cheapest one I have seen is one by Hella on Amazon.

P.S.Found one at Pepboys.

Yaatri screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 08:19 AM
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:12 AM   #18
guitarin
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Originally Posted by Yaatri View Post
Neither do I. Where did you get that>. Suddenly, prices of fuse blocks seems to have gone up as much as $20 to$40. The cheapest one I have seen is one by Hella on Amazon.

P.S.Found one at Pepboys.
Bussmann products. Cheap and readily available.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:22 PM   #19
Dan-M
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Originally Posted by duck View Post
About $5:


The electrons don't care how much I paid for it.
This is handy, small and cheap but if you want some of your accessories switched on and off with the ignition, especially on a canbus system, a box equipped with a relay is the way to go.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:17 PM   #20
racer1735
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I have this fuse block from Blue Sea. I'm not an electrician by any means, and this thing is simple to add circuits to. Fairly inexpensive too. I have the 12-circuit model. I fixed the block to an old CD case, which fits in the tail of my bike. Makes it easy to grab if I need to remove it, and give is a stable base. Blue Sea are 'marine' fuse blocks so they can theoretically hold up to the elements, if necessary.

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Old 01-28-2013, 01:13 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Yaatri View Post
Neither do I. Where did you get that>. Suddenly, prices of fuse blocks seems to have gone up as much as $20 to$40. The cheapest one I have seen is one by Hella on Amazon.

P.S.Found one at Pepboys.
Search on "raised atc four fuse"
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #22
Maggot12
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Originally Posted by racer1735 View Post
I have this fuse block from Blue Sea. I'm not an electrician by any means, and this thing is simple to add circuits to. Fairly inexpensive too. I have the 12-circuit model. I fixed the block to an old CD case, which fits in the tail of my bike. Makes it easy to grab if I need to remove it, and give is a stable base. Blue Sea are 'marine' fuse blocks so they can theoretically hold up to the elements, if necessary.

I've used these with success and velcroed it down. I used the 6 circuit, cost about 30 bucks.
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:50 AM   #23
sierraoffroad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duck View Post
Search on "raised atc four fuse"

there was a guy on here who was doing a group buy on those a few years back. it was either here or stromtrooper. it's a do it yourself kit. you will need a goo set of crimpers.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:06 AM   #24
GHO100
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I'm trying out something a little different:



Link here: http://goo.gl/Nj5gG $25

Has 2 inputs, 1 ground hub. 14 miniblade fuse outputs (7 each side) and 7 ground inputs.

Roughly 4x3x1 inches.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:12 AM   #25
brasters
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Originally Posted by atgatt View Post
I have had a fuzeblock for 2 years with no issues. It's a good product but if I had to do it again, I would get the eastern beaver fuse block. Just seems more durable and less prone to weather/water etc...


http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...PC-8/pc-8.html
+1 on the Eastern Beaver, very well made and designed for hard envirements, as opposed to the "Fuzeblock". I have gone through two of them, they both broke at the same place, the little terminal block for power input, they are just soldered onto the circuit board as opposed to a through circuit board bolt on the Eastern Beaver fuseblock.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:49 PM   #26
mikemaycga
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The problem with fuse blocks is water. All of these have exposed copper and electricity and metal don't mix well. I will be replacing the fuze box on my bike with a Rowe electronics PDM60. This device is fully enclosed in epoxy and if/when a circuit pops, you can restart it by powering the bike on and off. No fuses to replace or run out of in the middle of no where. No worries of water getting into the electrics. A few bucks more but worth it.

http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/...er-panel.html#


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Old 02-03-2013, 07:22 PM   #27
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemaycga View Post
The problem with fuse blocks is water. All of these have exposed copper and electricity and metal don't mix well. I will be replacing the fuze box on my bike with a Rowe electronics PDM60. This device is fully enclosed in epoxy and if/when a circuit pops, you can restart it by powering the bike on and off. No fuses to replace or run out of in the middle of no where. No worries of water getting into the electrics. A few bucks more but worth it.

http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/...er-panel.html#


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
In my experience, none of the fuze blocks I have used have ever had an issue with water. The little bit that get's anywhere near the fuze block is minimal.

Jim

PS Then again, if you place it on the front of your windscreen, and ride in the rain, you might have issues.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:19 PM   #28
seniorasi OP
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Still haven't pulled the trigger on the Fuzeblock yet... I did check the PDM 60 out. It's cool that the unit is sealed. The not so good is it's a sealed unit. Extra wires are a pain. The programmable thing is cool but not into paying a dealer to do something I should be able to do with my laptop. Thanks for the input.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:27 PM   #29
VFR
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I had one of the Fuzeblocks back when Curt was making them. Nice piece but the downside may be that the total capacity of the block is 30 amps. The desirable feature is the choice of switched on non-switched outputs. I bought it to look at it but ended up giving it away.

Personally, I prefer the Centech AP-1 or AP-2. These can handle 60 amps total. The difference is the AP-1 can be either switched or non-switched depending on how you set it up. The AP-2 is divided with 3 fuses for switched and 2 fuses for non-switched, or reverse, depending on how you set it up.

I have also used the Blue Sea blocks. Usually the smaller six circuit without the ground connections in the panel. These beauties can take a TON of current. Again, they are either switched or non-switched--can't have both on the same panel.

I also have one of Eastern Beaver's panels. Bought that one just to check it out but haven't used it yet.

Besides bikes, I wire cars--hot rods, customs, restorations--and sometimes use one of these panels as an auxilliary panel. The Blue Sea panel was used on a Bonneville racer.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:10 PM   #30
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I went with the FUZEBLOCKS brand. Order placed so I'll post some pics of the install.
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