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Old 01-31-2013, 04:24 PM   #16
richarddacat OP
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This part turned out pretty good. I need to finish the edges and maybe reinforce the inside corners. Also need to be thinking about a lid and hinge assembly. Later I'll finish the outside with bondo, smoothing it out will be once everything is fitted. I want to get all the parts made and together before I do the final finishing.



Here's the outside form, what I did next was basically cut the box off down to where the I want the seat pan. The seat pan as it is now will fit inside the box form so I'll use that to make a mold. I wrapped my pan with saran wrap, thanks waldo and came up with a molding idea.



So I need a mold for my seat pan so I can form another fiberglass piece that will fit inside the box and where I can bolt the whole assembly to stock seat pan.
I'm using plaster of paris and fabric cloths to form over my seat pan. Soaking the cloths in plaster and wrapping them over the seat pan. After a few layers I added the box so the mold will sit level when I glass the pan.

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Old 01-31-2013, 07:29 PM   #17
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I just did something similar, and used duct tape as a release agent/cardboard cover. It worked really well, and was super fast.

Nice looking seat.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:07 AM   #18
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you should really skim through the videos on youtube.... also search google for "homemade fiberglass speaker box"... or similar searches. there are several methods. one that i intended on doing myself was to use expanding foam. One you build a basic one-layer shell, you can cut it open and remove the foam. then put the halves back together and layer it all up. doesnt look too hard. just that you have to invest in a bunch of consumables because the resin ruins whatever it touches. sticks, cups, spreaders... etc...


try this one for example
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-.../2-Tape-Layer/

(pic warning on this one)
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182085

good write up
http://chimchim.net/rav4/how/fiber.htm

the beauty of doing it yourself... if you decide to try again or make it better/bigger or something... you've already got some of the experience needed.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:35 PM   #19
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Thanks for the comments.

My plaster mold came out pretty good. Glassed it the other day and my new seat pan popped right out, there on the right. Re-fitted to seat pan and drilled my bolt holes. Fitted or rather it fell in the box half like a glove.



Smoothed the edges out and bolted the bottom half to the seat pan again. Then added the top half after cutting a hole for what will be covered with a lid.


I then made sure it fit level and well on the bike. Removed it and started glassing the inside seam between the two halves.
I removed the seat pan after the inside seams dried and glassed the outside edges and gaps.

I'll let it dry over night and smooth the edges out again. I'll also make sure the fit on the bike is good and then I'll be ready to use bondo the smooth out the whole box. Looks like the back next to the rack will need to thinned out some, just a bit too close especially after adding bondo.

I need to think about how I'm going to do a lid and I'm considering it being water tight, we'll see.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:35 PM   #20
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Reinforced the inside some more at the bolt holes and the back half. On the outside I smoothed out the high spots, sanded the back half next to the rack down a lot more for clearance. Ground the edges to match the seat pan.

Cleaned all the tape off the seat pan and painted the edges black.
Will be slapping bondo over the surface tomorrow.
Still not decided on the lid.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:27 PM   #21
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Got it smoothed out,




Been putting the lid off but it's time to figure out what I want. I could do just a flat flap or a cap with edges that go around the outside which would be easier to make water proof but make it larger.
May browse around Lowes for some ideas.
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:44 PM   #22
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It's coming along good. bete.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:57 AM   #23
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Impressive!
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:14 AM   #24
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Cap

If you make the cap you could go with a nice peice of AL say .25" thick and have an O ring groove machined into it, that will make it water tight when bolted down. Still keeping the stream lined look your after.
If you taper the edges down it will be even more refined, just overlap the opening by 1" giving you enough material for the taper past the O ring.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM8 View Post
If you make the cap you could go with a nice peice of AL say .25" thick and have an O ring groove machined into it, that will make it water tight when bolted down. Still keeping the stream lined look your after.
If you taper the edges down it will be even more refined, just overlap the opening by 1" giving you enough material for the taper past the O ring.

I like that idea but things are hectic at work I need my star machinist to mill this groove, I'll keep your suggestion in mind and my first thought for a lid was a flat one. Actually made one out of wood but I'm going with something else for now.

I've been running lid designs around in my head, simple ones that I can do in the garage and the hingeing of it has been hanging me up. I could easily covert to the aluminum flat cover later with what I've come up.
The lid will hinge on the flat side next to the front seat. I really wanted it conspicuous and hated the thought of a door hinge being visible.

What I'm going to do is use a lid that drapes over the sides and back and use a pivot point pin on the front right and left side. I'll make tabs on the lid where holes will be drilled through it and into the box. Maybe use a 13" length of threaded rod to be hidden on the inside and cap nuts on the outside? Might be hard to envision with my explanation but I'll probably glass it today and have some pictures later. I could have made it flat and still could later.

The only thing with this lid is that it's going to make it look bigger so a flat lid like you described will still be on the burner. I could still make this lid a flat one without flanges so we'll see how it turns out. It's only fiberglas and time
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:26 PM   #26
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I'm very impressed.

For a lid, can you put saran wrap on top of what you already have so that your box becomes the form for the lid? I'm thinking the edges of the lid could drop down the sides an inch so gravity helps keep water out. You might be able to open up the access hole some too. (You also might be able to imagine better lids than I do.)
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:59 PM   #27
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Looking good! Interested to see it finished.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:55 PM   #28
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I first covered the box with stretch wrap and since the top has a hole in it I covered it with a flat piece of cardboard. I thought I needed a lip to build an edge up so I took another piece of right-angle cardboard, slit it so I could form it and tape it down.

Prior to my construction I thought it may be best to flip the edge over so I could fiberglas up against the box. This would have had a tighter fit for the lid but I forgot about that during my construction and realized it later after it was glassed. Oh well, it's less than a 1/8 thick. We'll see how it fits tomorrow and I might need that room for a foam edge???.


Since I had good luck with the foil tape and paste wax I stuck with that.

Drying as we speak,


Considering a magnetic latch and not really concerned security.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
I'm very impressed.

For a lid, can you put saran wrap on top of what you already have so that your box becomes the form for the lid? I'm thinking the edges of the lid could drop down the sides an inch so gravity helps keep water out. You might be able to open up the access hole some too. (You also might be able to imagine better lids than I do.)
we think alike. I am wanting to open the hole up too where I have maybe an inch from the outside edge. The hole I got is also not exactly square with the outside edge. I poked it in there just so I could get my hands in.

Thanks for everyones comments, this is a fun project and I enjoy doing it. I'm really not happy calling it a Smuggler though since Corbin has that name, I need to call it something else, a monkey, ass-hatch, back-buddy, litter box or something more original than Corbin's high dollar compartment.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:01 PM   #30
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My new top popped out,


And it fit like a glove


I cleaned up the edges and figured where my pivot holes are going to be. I thought it may be best if the holes and pins rode on something more substantial than fiberglas so I JB Welded two washers where my holes are. Might see what kind of shoulder bolts we have at Ace Hardware for my pins.
The 88 sticker in the back came off a sheet metal license plate holder, the sticker is what we use to use as registration. This piece is slightly recessed and is where my magnetic latch will be.



I'll put a thin sheet of bondo on the lid tomorrow and smooth it out.
Looks like paint time is not to far off.
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