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Old 02-04-2013, 01:49 PM   #16
skidxr OP
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Location: Durango, Colorado
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So as a test I tried this quick setup and it started the bike. That's a battery for my 525 and 10 foot jumper cables from Autozone.

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Old 02-04-2013, 05:53 PM   #17
zeegman
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Good news

Quote:
Originally Posted by skidxr View Post
So as a test I tried this quick setup and it started the bike. That's a battery for my 525 and 10 foot jumper cables from Autozone.

Good to see you can get it going wih that tiny 525 battery. I have a 530 and the battery is tiny too.
While you have that jumper setup use a meter in series with one of the jumper cables to see if current is flowing with switch turned off. Might be a bad battery in the first place but it would be good to check if noticeable current is flowing when the switch is off. Another possibility is the charging circuit is not working so well on your bike. The battery will eventually run down to nothing and won't start.

MZ
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #18
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicks View Post
RC batteries lack the CCA to reliably turn a bike engine over repeatedly.

This thread is quite informative on different battery technologies and their pros-cons.
Based on what I have seen with those RC batteries, I'd beg to differ. I'm going to buy one to try out. This will be a test not for an RC battery to perm replace a bike battery, but as a ooops, battery is dead and I need a jump in the middle of BFE. Out comes the RC pack with alligator clips and vroom.

They are cheap enough and I already have a balancing charger.

So here's the vehicles I'm going to attempt to start with it. I'll take videos

Husqvarna TXC 511 Fuel injected (not even going to parallel the current battery, just see if the RC battery will start it cold as the "sole" battery)

CBR600, same deal. This bike has a Shorai

FZ1, bike has a Yaesu AGM. I'll see if the RC battery will start this bike without the original battery hooked up, and then I'll drain the bike battery down to where the solenoid is clicking and then parallel the RC battery and see what happens.

Ninja 650, bike has no battery
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
Based on what I have seen with those RC batteries, I'd beg to differ. I'm going to buy one to try out. This will be a test not for an RC battery to perm replace a bike battery, but as a ooops, battery is dead and I need a jump in the middle of BFE. Out comes the RC pack with alligator clips and vroom.

They are cheap enough and I already have a balancing charger.

So here's the vehicles I'm going to attempt to start with it. I'll take videos

Husqvarna TXC 511 Fuel injected (not even going to parallel the current battery, just see if the RC battery will start it cold as the "sole" battery)

CBR600, same deal. This bike has a Shorai

FZ1, bike has a Yaesu AGM. I'll see if the RC battery will start this bike without the original battery hooked up, and then I'll drain the bike battery down to where the solenoid is clicking and then parallel the RC battery and see what happens.

Ninja 650, bike has no battery
don't use RC li-po batteries on 12v motorcycle systems. voltages are not compatible. a 4s or 3.7v x 4 = 14.8v nominal, operating voltages are 3.5v x 4 = 14v (empty) .. fully charged 4.2v x 4 = 16.8v (full)

RC li-po packs are lithium cobalt which are inherently dangerous. nominal voltage is 3.7v... 3.5v -4.2v fully charged... go 1/2v over 4.2 .. there's a good possibility battery will go into thermal runaway (explosion) search RC forums for li-po fires ...

Boeing 787 uses lithium cobalt cells that need all sorts of safeties to prevent battery from going into thermal runaway.

unlike LiFePO4 batteries which are inherently safe... 3.3v nominal voltage... 12.8v to 13.3v delivers 90% of useable current. fully charged at 14.6v

12v system typically charge at 13.8v to 14.2v... so a 12v charging system in good condition cannot overcharge a LiFePO4 battery.

_cy_ screwed with this post 02-04-2013 at 08:29 PM
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:20 PM   #20
MrSandman818
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If you really just want to carry an extra battery and want to make sure it's charged at all times then I would recommend one of those expensive light weight ones on KTM twins. Mount it in the underseat storage and run power cables from the main battery through a battery isolator to the battery under the seat. Then have jumper cables for that oh shit moment. You would only need to run two wires so setup would be a breeze.

Or make sure to run accessories like heated grips through a circuit that shuts off with the ignition.

Also load test your battery.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:47 PM   #21
Rafagas
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Lo Miranda, Chile SudAmerica
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Only need an electrical sistem in good condition

I use Shorai is 2 or 3 times ligth and very powerfull and confidence.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:14 PM   #22
Mr_Snips
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I have a buddy that builds lightweight batteries...i've had them in all my bikes. He is sending me a 12 cell one that he uses to start his STI...should be plenty to start this bike and save some weight. Plus its free...

Not sure if he still has a website but his business name is mavryk designs.
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